We had been truly blessed in our time of need! The alternator failed when Trilogy was close to a big marina, the closest point for safe anchorage was only a few hundred metres away and amazingly, the weather throughout the 5 days it took to get the alternator replaced was very settled, and in particular, no wind shifts that would put us in danger of being on a lee shore.
However, the skipper and his navigator (Lynette) were well aware that strong winds were forecast for late Wednesday, with Predict Wind showing a lot of red, indicative of an intense weather cell heading our way. It would not have been safe to stay where Trilogy had been anchored for another 24 hours. A berth had been booked in the marina in case there were further delays, but thankfully that booking was cancelled. Although the one week delay had not been too hard on us, we were itching to get underway, especially because of the need to find a safe anchorage for protection from the forecast bad weather. Entered into Trilogy’s chart plotter was a course to Uvala (Bay) Nečujam, a deep inlet situated on the northern side of Šolta Island.
Trilogy did not miss a beat as we motored the 11NM to Uvala Nečujam! The pilot information for Šolta read: ‘Apart from an out-of-character resort development at Nečujam, Solta is a traditional Croatian island.’ What we found was a range of houses from traditional to the more modern designs which had larger windows, scattered around the bay foreshore and up the gently sloping hillsides. Occupying one large section of the slopes was around fifty blocks of two and three storey apartments with balconies, all painted white with red tile roofs, which decidedly looked ‘out-of-character’. There were several active building sites in the bay and as soon as Trilogy’s anchor had been dropped and the engine noise cut, the ear-rattling sounds of jack hammers and nail guns shattered the apparent tranquility. We kept an eye on the clock as we waited for knock-off time! As the winds had shifted to the east, the skipper decided to reposition Trilogy across the other side of the bay, to avoid the potential of a lee shore issue. We laid out 40 metres of chain and all looked good. The skipper was quick to have a swim and relished his refreshed status on the foredeck, soaking up the last of the sun for the day. He then cooked for us his signature spaghetti bolognese which was, of course, washed down with a good bottle of Croatian red. From the cockpit we could hear the sounds of locals dining and the smell of outdoor cooking wafting our way, which made us realise that a local restaurant/cafe was open, even though very few people seemed to be around. These small communities are very seasonal, with the bare minimum open throughout the winter months.
Next day was 1 May. This is May Day in Croatia, the equivalent of Australia’s Labor Day, which meant no work on the building sites! It also meant nothing was open, not that we wanted to risk going ashore with 30 knot winds cutting across the bay, plus the heavy showers of rain. We relaxed with our books and tried to solve the problems of the world, in particular, the current Middle East war. Robert is passionate about this subject and shared his in-depth knowledge of the historical relationship of the peoples of the region to the biblical land...but can an effective solution be found? We enjoyed another tasty chicken meal before crawling into our snug beds to weather the night. The winds gusted over 40 knots and howled through the rigging, along with rain, thunder and lightning but the anchor held with 50 metres of chain laid out.
May 2nd brought back the builders and their tools of trade, but equally the morning weather miraculously was warm, as the wind had dropped and the sun was shining. This is not to say that the bad weather had completely passed, because a big 180 degree shift in the wind, from the south to north was predicted for our night time entertainment. The skipper found himself with a dilemma - where could he position Trilogy so that she could swing 180 degrees without coming to grief? As the calm weather window offered an opportunity for us to stretch our legs, we headed ashore and walked up a long pathway to reach the top of the hillside. This meant walking through the ‘out of character’ development which appeared almost abandoned and unkempt. We concluded that the apartments were probably privately owned and that only a few had permanent occupation... but the views from the top were spectacular and we had the realisation that this was why people had opted to invest in this development. Slowly we worked our way down the steep road to the shoreline, enjoying our discoveries of wild fig trees that were just fruiting, cumquat trees laden with yellow fruit and newly flowering lavender bushes. The restaurant we noted the first night was open for coffee but we passed on Phil’s Fast Food for lunch. A family had taken up their beach-side positions on the sharp rocky beach and there was no suggestion that they planned to enter the chilly water. We continued our wander further around the shoreline walking on the one lane road passed the little church’s door which was locked. We discovered a grotto tucked into rock behind the church with a statue of Mary offering comfort and blessings to those who came. Continuing on, we found Villa Paris restaurant which had a 4.2 restaurant rating, but there was no sign of any activity and in fact the place looked tired and neglected!
Lunch was far better on board anyway! Lynette is a very capable egg poacher and with a bed of toast, rocket, avocado and smoked salmon to lay the perfect eggs on, lunch was simply the best. A relaxing afternoon followed, but the skipper remained in a quandary about the weather forecast. Our bay had become a magnet for rental catamarans and there was little wriggle room left. His final conclusion was to stay at anchor where we were, but shorten the anchor chain by 10 metres. We knew the anchor was holding well and by shortening the chain, there was less swing room, but also less chance we would hit some nearby buoys, the shore or another boat, when the strong winds hit. Our dinner of marinated fresh tuna accompanied by a Greek salad was a very satisfying meal. Fresh strawberries with a nightly ration of chocolate brought another day to a close. With ‘Anchor Watch’ set, we were off to bed with our books.
......The skipper had us all out of bed about 2am! The anchor watch had sounded the alarm that Trilogy was in danger; she had done the 180 degree spin that had been forecast. The wind had whipped up a fury in the bay, the rain was heavy and lightening and thunder flashed all around. The skipper swung into action, starting up the engine and generator, turning on the deck and navigation lights, all the torches gathered and then we all stared at the navigation instruments, hoping that things would not deteriorate further. The high wind and rain persisted for nearly 2 hours and the debate was on again...should we lift the anchor and go further away from everything?..but where to? We noticed one catamaran heading out of the bay, but there was nowhere close that could offer the security we had. Trilogy appeared to be alarmingly close to the shore, but at the worst of the storm there was 6 metres of water under the keel at a distance of 80 feet from the shore. Eventually the intensity of the wind gusts subsided and although lightening and thunder still remained, it seemed we could rest a little easier.
We were slow to rise in the morning but when we did, the bay was a picture of tranquility. After a leisurely breakfast, we prepared to depart, like most of the other boats who had weathered the storm. We took care raising the anchor chain, as we knew Trilogy had been on a wild ride since it had been laid out. A good dollop of mud attached to the anchor blade let us know that the anchor had no intention of losing it’s grip!

Given the rapid improvement in the weather, it didn’t take us long to hatch a plan for our weekend activities. As it is always tricky leaving a yacht at anchor for any length of time in case the weather changes, we were delighted that the weather forecast seemed stable enough for the skipper to join us for another visit to Split. As we had wanted to do the ‘Substructures’ of the Diocletian Palace, this seemed a perfect way to spend the day. We motored in the tender a short distance across our bay to a small boat marina and nudged into a spot which looked perfectly reasonable to us. Not so for No.2 in-charge of this little boat harbour as he abruptly waved us out! The skipper is not prone to accepting such ultimatums and filled with determination to succeed, he set off to find No 1 in-charge, who was far more reasonable about our need to dock for a few hours. All we had to do was pay No 2 €30 cash and all would be well! That’s how the system works: good cop, bad cop!!
We walked into town with a spring in our step to visit the Substructures. It was a beautiful morning, with everything sparkling under the blue cloudless sky. The Substructures are high vaulted stone chambers on a massive scale which were originally intended merely to elevate the Emperor’s chambers, but Diocletian soon realised it was a perfect place for storage. Later in the Middle Ages, a cistern and a wine and oil press occupied a section of the space but sadly, the majority was used as a waste pit for the residential accommodation above. Apart from the fame that came to the Substructures through Series 2 of Game of Thrones, the space is now a venue for a range of community activities, such as flower shows along with painting and sculpture exhibitions. By the time we had concluded our visit it was time for a leisurely lunch at Oh La La! We finished off our visit by enjoying a delicious gelato as we sauntered back to Trilogy. Once on board, the skipper braved the chilly water for a swim while the rest of us retreated down below for some downtime. Our dinner was al fresco style, enjoying the delicious local cheeses and cured ham, olives, walnuts and strawberries (oh soo good!) that we bought at the Saturday street market. Robert spotted dolphins dancing and diving happily close by, which was a fitting end to a happy day.
A blissful night of sleep followed and when we awoke there was every promise of an even warmer sunny day. This being Sunday, in the local park an open air church service was being held and we paused to listen to the beautiful, strong alto voice sing the verses of a hymn while the considerable crowd of worshippers joined in for the chorus. We took a 20 minute Uber ride to the UNESCO-listed historic town of Trogir, located on the coast due west of Split. It has a well preserved old town, which has a mixture of Renaissance, Baroque and Romanesque buildings. It lies on a small island connected to the mainland by a bridge and a second small bridge connects it to the island of Človo.
Trogir, named Tragurian by the Greeks in the 3rd Century BC, has been continuously occupied since that time. It was a centre for trade and was enclosed by a megalithic wall. Trogir demonstrates the influence of various cultures throughout its history - Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Hungarian and Venetian. The construction of the Cathedral of St Lawrence was begun around 1200 and dominates the main square. The Bell Tower was added in the late 16th Century, which offers excellent views over the town and beyond. Adjacent to the Cathedral is the Town Hall built during the 14th and 15th Centuries. Perched on the edge of the old town is a massive Venetian fortress, known as Kamerlengo. Today it is only possible to visit the tower of the fortress which provides good views also, but as the ticket seller was highly distracted by a huge swarm of wasps that had decided to take up residence, we opted out of the tower climb! However, the Cathedral and its Bell Tower did get climbed. Just wandering the very narrow streets made the visit worthwhile. The buildings have a homogeneous appearance due to the predominant use of local limestone, the weathering producing a mellow creamy hue. As it is the tourist pre-season, it was very pleasant meandering in these small passages, taking in the quaint and curious features. Our lunch was equally pleasant, as we chose an inner, open air courtyard restaurant which offered fish soup, a mixed plate of grilled fish (prawns, mussels, sardines and red fish) and a generous salad for €15. To that we added a bottle of rosé and bread for mopping up, and we were very content; but to be totally content....well, we added a delicious gelato! Our Uber trip home was memorable because our heavily tattooed, shaved-head driver blasted us with his choice of Metal FM ‘music’. Robert was in the front seat and from the back seat we could feel his pain as the exaggerated volume pounded his eardrums! He seemed to be quite an interesting guy, but conversation was stymied. A light evening meal finished off another interesting day.
Monday was the day we had been told that the replacement alternator would arrive. Lunchtime came and the skipper was beginning to have his doubts as there was still no message from Top! But, true to his word, Top did call early afternoon and he sent a technician to connect a refurbished alternator to Trilogy. Top’s plan was to provide a means of getting Trilogy into the marina adjacent to his workshop for the fitting of the new alternator the next morning. Meanwhile, with a day restricted to being on board, we busied ourselves with washing clothes and various other cleaning tasks, until the sun set slowly behind the islands offshore.
Tuesday morning and we were to be in the marina at 8am. We were making ready to pull in the anchor, only to find that the throttle was not working....again we were dead in the water! Top was wondering where we were, but to our rescue once more, Top and his electrician reversed the plans and came to where Trilogy was anchored. A quick revision of plans meant Lynette and I were deposited on shore for some supply shopping while Top and his electrician were ferried back to Trilogy. Even for the professionals it was not an easy task to connect the new alternator to all the various wires but the job got done and finally all was well, except for the engine rev counter, but that job could wait! The last task before we departed for yonder shores was to take the tender into the marina to pay Top for his unerring efforts to assist Trilogy and her crew. He said to the skipper: You were at sea with only an anchor, I had to help you!! If only all service people were so generous in spirit, and in our hearts Top is tops!!

A new season of cruising on board Trilogy is underway. The preparations began at the shipyard in Tivat, Montenegro where Trilogy had spent the European winter months. During that time, a considerable amount of work was requested to be completed and thankfully most tasks were done to the satisfaction of the owners. New teak decking replaced the old worn deck on the swim platform and the remaining teak was renovated to look like new. This has made a huge difference to the appearance of the cockpit area! All rigging lines were replaced and new anchor chain and capstan installed. Another major job completed was replacement of the rudder bearings. Trilogy was back in the water a few days after Peter and Garth arrived in Tivat and then they began work on the long list of jobs to recommission Trilogy's multitude of systems. Methodically, the duo worked long hard days, often bum up in awkward spaces, checking and rechecking the smooth running of all things, both fixed and movable. Eventually they were ready to motor north to Split in Croatia where a new mainsail and headsail were awaiting the arrival of Trilogy. The original set of sails had served Trilogy very well, sailing the Atlantic Ocean twice, not to mention the thousands of miles of cruising in the Mediterranean and Caribbean since 2012. More hard work commenced once Trilogy was berthed in the ACI marina at Split, with the next round of tasks to be completed. New rigging was installed by a rigger less than competent, which resulted in a mouse getting stuck in the mast. In spite of his best efforts, two days later it was still stuck in the mast, with no hope of retrieving it! The outboard motor was fired up, only to find that the water pump was faulty and clearly had not been serviced satisfactorily. In Split, local outboard service agent was extremely busy and did not appear for several days but in the nick of time, the outboard was hauled away for the much needed repairs. In the meantime, a new 5 hp Mercury outboard was purchased so that Trilogy could depart the next morning.
Joining Garth and I on the first leg of our cruising this year in the Dalmatian Islands off the coast of Croatia are Robert and Lynette, who loved their maiden voyage so much last year that they put their hands up for more. We are delighted to welcome them on board again, with the promise that there will be no overnight passages, as was the case last season. Within a day or two of them stepping on board last year, Trilogy sailed from Taormina in Sicily to Fiskcardo on the Greek island of Kefalonia, across the Ionian Sea a voyage which took some 29 hours. Apparently many a tale has been told of that experience!
Split is a beautiful city on the coast of Croatia, situated about 230 kms by road north of Dubrovnik. Initially settled by the Greeks between the 3rd and 4th centuries, the most important development in its early history was when the Roman Emperor Diocletian ordered a residence be built at Split for his retirement, around 295 AD. The particular location was because Split was near the large Roman settlement of Salona, where Diocletian had been born. The palace took over 10 years to build and Diocletian lived there until he died. Many later Roman rulers used the palace but by the 6th century, it had fallen into disrepair and was disused for over 400 years. The Venetians conquered Split in 1420 and ruled until 1797, when there was a period of Austrian rule and also a brief French period of rule.
The modern history of Split occurred after the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, when it became part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes in 1918. In 1941 Split was occupied by the Italians but a strong resistance movement developed and when Italy capitulated in WW2, it was able to be liberated in 1943. However, Germany remained in control until 1944 and at the conclusion of WW2, it became part of Yugoslavia.
Fast forward to the War of Independence of 1991-95, when the majority of Croats through a referendum voted to leave Yugoslavia and become a sovereign country. They successfully achieved this aim in 1991 and international recognition was achieved in 1992. Split did not suffer much damage during this terrible conflict, however the thriving ship building industry that had been established in Split during the pre-war period, slowly declined. Most recently, tourism has once more brought prosperity to Split and justifiably so.
Victualling is always a major task and this time was no different. We shopped at Konzum Hypermarket, a taxi ride away from the marina, but it proved to have a comprehensive range, enough to complete the shopping in one hit. The usual staring at labels to decide if it was actually what we wanted to purchase prolonged the process but equally, it added to our curiosity and insight into the typical Croatian dietary habits. Back at Trilogy, we took a quick break for lunch, enjoying the local pastries filled with spinach, cheese and meats called bareks, before stowing all our shopping under the floor boards, overhead lockers, fridge and freezer.
Job done, we walked 20 minutes from the marina to the old town of Split and enjoyed the beauty of the light cream stone buildings, seemingly arranged in an ad hoc fashion, glistening in the late afternoon sun. We ate dinner at Konoba Fetivi, enjoying a local beef dish called Pašticada (Dalmatian Beef Stew). It is marinated in vinegar for 12 hours before being lightly roasted and then served with a tangy gravy and gnocchi. Yes, there is a strong Italian cuisine influence in Croatian food, hence the gnocchi. As we strolled along the waterfront back to Trilogy, the light of the full moon took our gaze into the sky.
Next day, we were still waiting for our outboard motor to be collected so that we could depart, which allowed for a visit to the Old Town to see the Diocletian Palace. It is a large complex and although parts have succumbed to removal of stones for other purposes, other sections have survived the test of time. Rectangular in layout, there are four gates of entry - Golden, Silver, Iron and Brass. We visited the Temple of Jupiter, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius (Diocletian's Mauseleum), the Crypt and Museum. What we did not have time to visit was the 'Substructures', where the 2022 Game of Thrones series was filmed. Dinner that night was at Šperun, where we dined on lamb cutlets and veal chops, served with boiled potatoes and grilled vegetables.
With light winds predicted for early the next morning and the outboard motor finally collected, it was time to depart the marina. With only half the length of Trilogy available to manoeuvre out of the marina, the skipper did a superb job of easing Trilogy out of her berth and beyond the marina. After refuelling, we headed out into the sparkling harbour to our first port of call....or did we?
No sooner had we turned the corner than a strong burning smell emanated from the engine housing! Words like 'Oh dear' were not strong enough to describe our fears! About half a mile off-shore in 45 metres depth of water, we were adrift. The skipper swung into problem solving, the first of which was to get Trilogy closer to the shore and securely anchored. Tentatively, he powered up the cooled engine and motored towards our chosen anchorage in about 10 metres depth with a sandy bottom. We quickly realised how fortunate we were to be so close to shore and therefore help!
Immediately, phone calls to Australia to Peter, brought forth discussion and advice as to how to proceed. Peter had replaced the fan belt just before he had departed Split, but with hind sight, the problem was the alternator. Peter swung into action and hatched a plan for the removal of the alternator and delivery to the electrician in Split. By late afternoon the alternator was in the hands of 'Top', the head of the engineering for the marina, and the following morning it was revealed that the alternator was cactus and beyond repair. The advice was to order a new alternator which could be supplied after the weekend.
Meanwhile the weather deteriorated and we hunkered down around the corner from the marina. At first we thought we might have to limp back into the marina, but a safer option was to stay put. A series of squawls rolled over Trilogy and the best thing to do was stay below and stay warm for the rest of the day. The poor weather continued right through the night, costing the skipper a sleepless night. He had realised that Trilogy was anchored quite close to a drop-off and the concern was that there was not enough anchor chain out. However, the anchor held tight and we made it through the night. We woke to sunshine and our spirits once more lifted. Now we could go ashore and relax with the locals.

Through the Challenges: A Day in the Marina

The wind, relentless and wild, swept over us at 37 knots, then escalated to a formidable 40 knots. Yesterday, it seemed the elements conspired against our sail, urging us to seek refuge in the heart of our vessel. Internal tasks became our focus as the tempest raged outside.

Today, a glimmer of respite graced our frozen domain. Though the day remained cold enough to nip at our skin, we found solace in attending to our life jackets. With the air conditioning set to HEAT mode, we meticulously affixed devices to these vital safety tools. Connecting them to our mobile phones proved a challenge, demanding patience and precision. Yet, despite the hurdles, we emerged victorious, save for one stubborn device destined for return to its supplier.

My hands found purpose in the starboard lazarette, a domain often overlooked yet essential. Here, I replaced the neglected fuel filter that NAVAR had forgotten. A task that once seemed routine now serves as a reminder of the toll time takes on the body. Yet, determination fuels my resolve, urging me to persist in these duties for a few more years.

Amidst the chores and repairs, a glimmer of anticipation stirred within us. The headsail sheets and furler line awaited deployment, a testament to our readiness for the challenges ahead. Tomorrow promises a reprieve from the relentless weather, an opportunity to unfurl our sails and embrace the horizon with renewed vigor.

As I sit here, the gentle sway of the vessel beneath me, memories of past voyages flood my mind. The sound of Quito's voice drifting from the Caribbean stirs nostalgia, reminding me of journeys past aboard Trilogy. Each wave carries echoes of adventures shared, binding us to the vast expanse of the sea.

In the face of adversity, we find strength. Through toil and perseverance, we navigate the ever-changing currents, bound by a shared love for the open water. And as the sun sets on another day at sea, we remain steadfast, ready to embrace whatever tomorrow may bring.

Ahoy fellow sailors. Today's journey saw us bid farewell to the historic port of Korsula, the very birthplace of the legendary Marco Polo. With our sails tucked away in the still sail locker, we relied on our trusty motor to guide us through the gentle waters, for the wind seemed to be playing hide and seek with us.
Our destination? Tupeci, a charming town nestled just south of Makarska, where we were eager to reunite with old friends and soak in the beauty of the Adriatic coastline once more.
As fate would have it, we were greeted by the warm embrace of one of Peter's longtime friends, Maria. A true Croatian gem who, despite the passage of time, remained unchanged in her kindness and grace. Maria's journey had taken her from the shores of Australia back to her homeland, and we were fortunate to share in her stories of adventure and nostalgia.
Joined by Maria's brother, we talked about life on the Dalmatian coast, and the hordes of tourists that frequent the toen over summer. As we said farewell to Bogamir our merry band set out to explore the quaint streets of Tupeci, each corner filled with echoes of history and the vibrant spirit of its inhabitants. And what better way to cap off our reunion than with a leisurely lunch overlooking the bustling Marina of Makarska, where the scent of salt and sea mingled with the laughter of old friends.
As the day gently drifted into evening, Trilogy cast her anchor off the coast of Tupeci, a sight to behold against the backdrop of the setting sun, we headed to our anchorage for the night.

Today's log comes to you from the tranquil waters of the Adriatic, where Trilogy has embarked on yet another exhilarating journey. Last night brought unexpected excitement as we weathered a sudden storm in the Montenegro marina.
As the winds roared at 35 knots, Garth, our ever-vigilant skipper, sprang into action. For two hours, he valiantly fendered off our neighbouring vessels, ensuring we stayed secure amidst the tempest. Such dedication embodies the essence of a skilled skipper, willing to sacrifice sleep for the safety of the crew. Meanwhile, I blissfully slumbered through the commotion, oblivious to the chaos outside.
Morning light revealed chatter among the marina folk about the "Hugh" storm that had swept through. Yet, thanks to Garth's diligence, Trilogy emerged unscathed, ready to set sail once more. With smooth clearance from Montenegro customs and immigration--albeit amidst grumbles from the staff--we embarked on our next leg at 08:30.
The rugged beauty of Montenegro's coastline unfolded before us, with glimpses of a submarine base and the curious sight of a "5-star tourist jail." Despite facing headwinds, Trilogy surged ahead, propelled by the spirit of adventure.
Arriving in Dubrovnik, Croatia, we encountered a surprising twist: Garth and I were deemed temporary residents, raising questions about our Schengen days. It seems our journey is never short on bureaucratic surprises. Nevertheless, we press on, embracing the challenges as part of the seafaring experience.
Amidst administrative tasks, we received word of the imminent arrival of our ST-70 display--a crucial addition to Trilogy's navigation arsenal. Customs clearance was swiftly dealt with. A, reminder to Trilogy skippers to ensure all crew members are over 12 years old are duly listed with the Harbour Masterto avoid complications.
Tonight finds us anchored in a picturesque bay reminiscent of a bygone fishing village, nestled beneath the watchful gaze of The Dubrovnik castle. Tonight Garth takes on the role of chef, treating us to a hearty Spag-bol feast--a fitting reward for a day of navigation and unexpected twists.
As the sun sets over the Adriatic horizon, we raise a toast to the wonders of the sea and the camaraderie of the Trilogy crew. Tomorrow promises new adventures as we chart our course through the azure waters of Croatia. Until then, fair winds and following seas.