Preparations from afar
28 October 2013 | Petaluma, Calif.
Kym
Captains log:
We arrived in San Carlos Nov 13 while Albatross was still on the hard, spent a frantic few days getting her ready to go. Fresh bottom paint, new zincs, a 2nd anchor roller on the bow with the addition of a 65# claw anchor for security. New toilet. Head plumbing rerouted so options are directly overboard OR into holding tank for later emptying thru macerator pump. Works great [no more smell]. And new house and engine batteries [yeah--$$$].
And installed [with Darrage of Gitano and a few problems later] the new top down spinnaker furler: check this: . Turns out the furling line MUST be continuous and finding someone to splice the nylon braid line wasnt easy--in fact we had a shoemaker do it in Zihuatenejo by putting a leather sleeve on the cut ends and sew them into place---it worked! When we finally got the kinks out of the system, it allowed Kym and I to deploy and furl up the spinnaker without a lot of drama or exertion. Very cool.
We left San Carlos for Mazatlan [420 nm] on the 16th with 8-10 kt NW winds forecast so settled in for a long motorsail. Soon it was blowing 20 and we doused the Yanmar and averaged 7.5 kts for 2 days with the Monitor steering perfectly --balanced under main alone--go figure. Caught our first of a few tuna and roared into Mazatlan after only 66 hours.
4 days at Marina Mazatlan--some canvas work [Bimini and dodger] oil change, provisioning, some appts and apartment work for Kym, checking in with old sailing friends, and of course music.
Left Mazatlan on the 24th for the overnight sail to PV [180 nm]. Stayed at the dilapidated marina for a night then moved to La Cruz --much better-- cool town, good food, more music [this time our own with Kym's old musical buddy bassist Ken Emery who's living aboard his Catalina 30 in La Cruz]. Saw humpbacks very close in Banderas bay--AWESOME! Fueled up and left for Zihuatenejo . At that point i began doubting the wisdom of our goal of reaching El Salvador this trip due to the necessity of waiting [sometimes for up to 2 weeks] for a weather window to cross the 250 nm Gulf of Tehuantepec. Mexico is at it's narrowest at that point so periodic hurricane force winds [called Tehuantepeckers] sweep over the Sierra from the Caribbean blasting the Gulf of T for 2-3 days. We could get thru it if caught, but not something to walk into voluntarily. So we slowed the trip WAY down. Stopped in a small cove called El Paraiso for a few days--only us---swimming, snorkeleing, kayaking, yoga on the beach---a must for a return visit some day.
Another 3 day sail got us into Zihuatenejo Bay [PV to Zih= 360 miles]. Light winds so a mix of sailing and motorsailing. Caught our second Mahi Mahi. Making great use of our new fish-killing technique: spray a small mouthful of Tequila or any hi test liquor into the gill slit of the fish and it instantly goes to sleep--no need to savage it with a hammer for the kill. Bloodless and very humane. Lots of turtles, occasional manta rays and of course lots of dolphins. oh yeah--and boobies. We lost a few lures--one to a billfish who did a few pirouettes off the stern while looking Kym straight in the eye on the last of six leaps.
Z is pretty special for me as it was an annual family vacation destination for Anita and the girls and me for nearly ten years starting in 1986. I'd always dreamed of sailing into that bay on my own boat---well--you get my drift. 3 busy town days including my first experience of taking on fuel and water while at anchor [no Marina here].Great anchorage so lots of dinghy use ---my Nissan 8 works great with the "replacement" inflatable.
Left Z on Dec 6 for Huatalco on the Oaxacan coast. Another light wind passage of 320 nm, with sailing about 30% of the time. We do 3 hour shifts at night which gives enough time for catch up naps. About 5 miles off Acapulco--which is gigantic and gross, water color much dirtier and went thru a few miles of literally thousands of dead fish floating on the surface. Glad to leave that behind.
Chart plotter, radar, AIS all working well and giving a lot of security esp at night with freighters and other traffic sometimes heavy, esp around the big ports like Manzanillo and Lazaro Cardenas.
A few days in Huatalco to put Albatross to bed for a few months. Some necessary work on the fridge/freezer, and getting a local "caretaker" Pedro set up to start engine monthly, check battery water, bilges, clean the bottom every 2 weeks etc etc.
Rented a car for a few days and headed up the coast to San Agustinillo, looking for a little BandB. Found an incredible spot: Rancho Cerro Largo where we had a casita with ocean overlook, great meals and yoga twice daily by Mario(rcerrolargo@yahoo.com), the owner/proprietor, who just might be the best yoga teacher i've studied with.
Some decent body surfing, and awesome massage by Maya and the beach walks allowed us to chill a bit before returning to the fridgid north
Plans are to return to the boat in April, provision and head across the Pacific. We cant leave the boat unattended in the Galapagos as I'd originally intended, so we'll stop there for a week [it's about 9-10 days from Huatalco] then continue to the Marquesas in French Polynesia. Then on to Tahiti where we'll store Albatross on the hard for a few months, then return in September for some cruising. November marks the beginning of the 6 month cyclone season, so again we'll be putting her on the hard while we fly home