I think Rick enjoyed my birthday celebration as much as I did. Our lunch at Lo Verdi had been rather substantial (to put it mildly) so we opt to stay onboard for the evening. A bottle of our favourite Fileno is pulled from the wine "cellar", and it goes very well with smoked salmon and my traditional birthday cannoli.
The next morning, we put on our running shoes and set out to properly explore Lipari town. The Pignataro marina is only about 2 km from the town, so we add an uphill loop for a little extra exercise, then make our way through the quiet streets to the citadel.
Lipari is described by our travel books as the largest and busiest of the Aeolian islands, but in early May tourists are a bit thin on the ground. This is a prime diving and snorkeling destination, and it's bit early in the season for that. The few tourists that we do see are mostly keen hikers, equipped with sturdy boots, walking sticks and backpacks. There are some scholarly types too, since the archeological museum has a treasure-trove of artifacts pulled from shipwrecks, ancient tombs and the remnants of island settlements dating back to the Neolithic age.
The early settlers in this area became wealthy by exporting obsidian, a glass-like volcanic rock that provided a cutting edge for weapons and utensils before the introduction of metals. Greek settlers arrived in the 6th century BC, and their descendants stayed in control until they chose the wrong side in the Punic wars between Rome and Carthage circa 250 BC. This led to the destruction of the town of Lipari by the Romans, and all of the Aeolian islands came under Roman control. Volcanic activity and piracy also made the islands a dangerous place to live. Things hit an all-time low in 1544 when the fearsome Turkish pirate Barbarossa laid siege to the citadel, killed many of the townspeople and enslaved the rest. Eventually, some were ransomed and returned. Considering the hazards, you might wonder why they wanted to come back, but the incredible natural beauty of the islands is a likely explanation. In the following centuries, things were quieter. The islanders fished, grew capers and malvasia grapes, and mined pumice. They were not pleased to have their island paradise used as a place of incarceration for criminals and political prisoners during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Opponents of the Fascists were also incarcerated on Lipari in the 1930s and 40s, although they were permitted a great degree of freedom. In fact, a high-ranking Fascist complained that sending political prisoners to Lipari was more like sending them on vacation than a punishment! * But it wasn't until Rossolini's film "Stromboli" that the islands came to life as the tourist Mecca they are today.
The road to the citadel and museum seems like a good time to stop running and start walking.
The museum is a real gem, with an amazing collection of artifacts. There are hundreds -possibly thousands of amphorae recovered from the numerous shipwrecks that litter the seabed near the islands. We see case upon case of beautiful pottery, with many pieces by the "Lipari painter", an unnamed artist whose work is associated with beautiful multi-coloured designs. There are enchanting figurines recovered from tombs, some giving a glimpse into scenes from ancient life. Perhaps most memorable is the collection of miniature replicas of Greek theatre masks. There's much more, but by the time we reach the Bronze-Age exhibits we are past the point of being able to absorb what we see.
We've booked a scooter for 1 p.m., so we head back to the marina to meet Giovanni from "Pit Stop". He drives us to his office in a golf cart and promptly upsells us to a Fiat Panda, saying that it might rain. Since it's not a lot more (45 euros a day for the car versus 25 for the scooter) we go for it. After a quick stop at the boat to change and pack a lunch, we head for Canetto and eat our sandwiches with a glorious view of Stromboli and Panarea.
Onward to the old pumice works at Capo Rosso- not at all picturesque, but we can pick up pieces of obsidian nearby. We both end up with cuts on our fingers, proving that obsidian does indeed provide a sharp cutting edge!
It doesn't rain after all, and around every corner is another breathtaking view. Near Acquacalda, two hikers are waiting at a bus stop. The woman sticks out her thumb, and we stop. "Lipari?" her husband asks. We tell them they can hop in if they don't mind doing some sightseeing along the way. They introduce themselves as Ottilie and ?Reinhard, a social worker and "book holder" (accountant) from Berlin. They are happy to be rescued, and explain that they have been waiting for the bus for a very long time. Ottilie can't seem to stop giggling, and we're not sure if it's because she's hesitant about speaking English or astonished at her own audacity for hitchhiking.
They are with us when we stop at Quattroocchi (four eyes) for one of the most stunning views we have seen.
Together, we look in vain for the sign to the hotel Tritone, which Giovanni has told us will lead to another panoramic viewpoint, but we cannot find it. We make another attempt to find it after we drop off our passengers in Lipari, but still have no luck. Instead we drive up a steep narrow road to Monte St. Angelo. The views to Salina and along the coast are beautiful, but the wildflowers are the best part. The hardest part is getting the car turned round. Scary!
We make a stop at the 'Therme', where there are hot springs, old Roman baths and an old spa. And one more stop at Quatrocchi, where the haze has lifted and the view is even better. Arriving back in Lipari at 5 p.m., we still haven't found the sign to the Hotel Tritone. Oh well, maybe tomorrow.
That night we drive into the town and have dinner at Fillipino's, a restaurant that celebrated its hundredth birthday in 2010. Maybe the anti-Fascists ate here! Before our first course arrives, we are brought plates with delicious arancini (rice balls similar to risotto cakes). Our pastas are truly special- Rick's with a sauce of tomatoes, capers and caciocavallo cheese, mine with tomatoes, eggplant and mozzarella. The second courses are not as noteworthy, and Rick's fish costs as much as we've paid for entire meals elsewhere, but the owner and waiters are friendly and attentive. The overall experience is terrific. Although we decline dessert, we are brought complimentary glasses of malvasia and sesame cookies to end the meal.
The next morning we go for another drive along the east coast, take a closer look at the pumice works and pick up a bit more obsidian. We're just driving back into Lipari, planning to pick up some provisions before we drop the car off, when suddenly we see the sign for the Hotel Tritone. Up we go, and the view if definitely worth the effort!
And we can pick out an anchorage for a visit to Vulcano.
When we return the car, Giovanni tells us that the building beside the viewpoint, which we had assumed was a private home, is actually an "observatorio" used to monitor the crater at Vulcano. We hope they are monitoring well. That's our next stop!
Rick's Cruising Notes
We stayed in Pignataro Marina because it is the most protected and there was a blow coming. VHF channel 74. Cost 40 euros for the first night then 30 for next and then 20 for the last night. Water (potable) and electric included. 15-20 minute walk to town. There is always movement from the wash from the ferries and tripper boats. Toilets and showers were not working when we were there although showers are available at a hotel up the hill. There are other berthing choices in town on the piers but they are all exposed to winds and seas from the northeast around to and including the south. Groceries and restaurants in town. Fuel on the pier. The island can be seen by bus or car; we rented from Giovanni at "Pit Stop".
*Ebner, Michael R. Ordinary Violence in Mussolini's Italy
