Our quality of life took a big bump upward when we moved onto the town dock in Galaxadhi. By pulling in alongside the covered pavilion (which, back in the days when Galaxadhi was landlocked, provided a shady spot for the unloading of goods from ships) we eliminated the need to lay out a stern anchor. What luxury to be able to simply step ashore, instead of having to climb into the dinghy or down the anchor! With unlimited fresh water available, we washed down the decks, did all our laundry and filled both our water tanks (75 gallons each) to the brim.

Our 5 euro water fee was collected by "Tommy", a town character, who seems to spend much of his day hanging around in the shade of the pavilion and managing the comings and goings at the dock. Tommy was running a bit amok on the day we arrived, arguing loadly in Greek with other men at the dock and generally making a bit of a nuisance of himself. When Rick eventually checked in with the Port Police, they politely suggested that next time, we should not pay the water fee to Tommy. We have no idea whether our money eventually made its way into the right hands, but in any case the police took our word for it and we didn't have to pay twice.

It's always easier to meet people when we're at a dock. If we'd stayed at anchor in the old harbour, we might have had to wait until we arrived in Marina di Ragusa to meet American-Italians Ni and Krissie. Having had no one but each other for company for over two weeks, we gratefully accepted when they invited us onboard their Dolphin catamaran Finalmente for drinks that evening.

Cruisers on catamarans live very well. Compared to Aisling, Finalmente is like a floating palace! What a treat to settle in on the circular settee, sipping wine, eating snacks and trading cruising tales with Ni and Krissie in air conditioned comfort. Within half an hour, we felt like we'd known them for years. As we talked about destinations in Sicily, Ni pulled out a remote control and began flipping through photos on a large-screen TV on the opposite wall. Among the other lovely sights, we saw the smiling faces of our friends Chris and Sandra! Ni and Chrissie also hail from the same hometown as Bill and Angela Chapman, who will also be wintering at Marina di Ragusa. I predict there will be some merry parties at the dock.

The next day, we finally paid a visit to Galaxidhi's nautical museum, where we felt right at home among the displays of old compasses, sextants, lead lines, logs and nautical paintings. Later, I took a long walk through the town and the shady park, taking photos and lamenting the fact that we would likely never return to this lovely place. Looking at an apparently deserted old house, I imagined buying and renovating it. We could have a garden with pomegranates and lime trees, plant herbs and geraniums in pots and maybe have a grape arbour like Louis and Martha's. Our family and friends would come and visit (because we would have real beds for them to sleep in) and we would serve them briam, crusty bread and local wine at our kitchen table. I would run or walk in the park every day, and lose five pounds. I would learn to speak Greek. Of course, this will never happen. We have too many other places that we want to visit, but it is fun to dream.

Eating out is very affordable here. Even though we chronically over-order and often return to the boat with a bag of leftovers, our dinner bills rarely exceed 30 euros. Consequently, we have been eating out far more often than usual and this, in combination with the wine we usually drink with these meals, is probably the direct cause of the afore-mentioned five pounds. For our last night in Galaxadhi, we decided to try the restaurant "Barca Maritsa" (recommended by Lonely Planet, and they are rarely wrong). As a change from the usual Greek fare we had seafood risotto, which was absolutely delicious. No leftovers from that meal!

Although we generally like to explore new places, the choices for anchorages in the gulf of Corinth are not abundant. Early the next morning, we headed off to Trizonia, the only inhabited island in the Gulf and another place we had visited two years ago. Krissie and Ni, who had left Galaxadhi the day before us, were already anchored off the wharf, and within an hour we had made plans to take our dinghies out to a nearby island beach for some snorkelling. An otherwise delightful afternoon was rudely interrupted by the rumble of thunder in the distance, and we dashed back to the boats just in time to close the hatches. By early evening the storm had blown over and we were able to have drinks in our cockpit and enjoy the glorious views on all sides.

If we'd gone fishing like the South African family beside us at the dock, we might have had fresh octopus for dinner!



Instead, we walked around to the village with Chrissie and Ni, and had dinner at the tharotaverna. The waterfront was a buzz of activity, with wedding guests snapping photos as a bride and groom departed on a well-decorated private ferry. Otherwise, nothing much had changed on Trizonia since our last visit. Billy the Greek was even still serving drinks and entertaining the guests at the Poseidon. He greeted us like long-lost friends and, although Rick was initially sceptical about whether he really did remember us, I suspect they don't see too many Canadians in Trizonia. In fact, Billy told us the only Canadians to arrive since we'd left were two Canada Geese! He was no longer wearing the cast with "FU" written in bold letters on it and seemed to be a bit mellower this time.

The next morning, Rick threw off the dock lines before I was even out of bed, and by mid-morning we were flying along the Gulf of Patras under full sail, with our knot meter showing speeds of up to 8.5 knots as we approached the longest cable-stayed bridge in the world. With 25 knots of wind almost directly behind us, we had a great ride, but I was very grateful that we were not travelling in the opposite direction. The current gave us a push for another hour, and by mid-afternoon we were anchored off Messalonghi. I'm embarrassed to report that, for the second time in a row, we opted not to go ashore, and were content to sit on deck with fizzy fruit drinks and a big tub of peanuts, watching the sun set as turtles swam by and fish jumped around the boat. When the crescent moon was well above the horizon, we decided to turn in early and rest up for an early departure. Cephalonia, we're on the way!

Cruisers Notes:
Anchor off the old harbour in 16-30' on sand and weed with good holding. There is a water tap in the old harbour at the end of the pier with the small boats. Basic provisions ashore on the main street . The best bread is in the bakery in the square, as is the best fruit and veggie shop. There is a small laundry near the square, but prices are high (25 euros to wash and dry a 5 kilo load).

We spent 2 nights on the dock in the new harbour, where electricity and water are available for 5 euros each per day in addition to Port Police fees of 15 euros per night. The mini market by the quay may be the best one in the town. There is bus service from the square to both Navpaktos (west) and to Itea / Delphi (east). Delphi is definitely worth touring, though we only saw Navpaktos through pictures.

The last time we stopped in Galaxidi, we had a very nice meal at Georges taverna / art gallery , right on the old harbour (the only one), where George's sister Mina explained how to cook Octopus (boil in sea water).