Aisling I

18 July 2016 | Genoa
11 July 2016 | Genoa Italy
04 July 2016 | Genoa
02 July 2016 | Genoa
25 June 2016 | Porto Azzurro Elba
11 April 2016 | Marina di Ragusa
14 January 2016
25 September 2015 | Crotone Italy
18 September 2015 | Erikoussa
10 September 2015 | Preveza
10 September 2015 | Preveza
24 July 2015 | Preveza
13 July 2015 | Vlicho Bay
03 July 2015 | Preveza Greece
21 June 2015

Bessalama Tunisia!

24 June 2013
Although 3 a.m. is not exactly zero-dark-thirty, it's definitely not my favourite time to crawl out of bed. But a perfect weather window had popped up, and if we left Monastir at first light on Tuesday, we could arrive in Pantelleria before dark.

In some respects, our sudden decision to leave so soon was disappointing. For one thing, we wouldn't be able to go with Philip and Cara (Fabuloso) on their tour to southern Tunisia and the Sahara desert. We'd already made the same trip in the spring of 2009, but we'd been keen on doing it again. And rest assured, travelling with Philip and Cara would have been...well...Fabuloso! Hopefully we'll see them again in some other port.

The short timeline also had us scrambling to do a few things that we wouldn't have a chance to do again for a very long time, if ever. For me, it was one last run along the water and through the ancient ruins on the point near the marina. One last chance to be called a gazelle by the Tunisian Romeos in the park. One last trip to the market, to stock up on merquez sausages. One last (failed) attempt to capture a photo of an old woman in a sifsari. One last load at the full service laundry, where everything comes back sparkling clean and beautifully folded (8 TD to wash and dry a medium load, 10.50 TD for a large load). One last purchase of a tiny bouquet of jasmine blossoms that small boys sell at the marina for 1 dinar each. But it's not really the last. I have made the mistake of saying yes to the first boy who approaches me, and the boy I've been buying them from every day suddenly appears. "Madame!!" he cries, his face a study in outrage and disappointment. So today, I buy two bouquets.



Meanwhile, Rick settles our bill with Mr. Mrad for the haul-out and relaunch, antifouling paint, and waxing and polishing of Aisling's hull, topsides and stainless. The grand total is 1500 TD or about 700 euros- about half what we would have paid in Sicily. At 5 p.m., we say goodbye to our neighbours Paul and Gabriela on Bellanova, move Aisling over to the fuel dock, and fill up with diesel at 1.15 TD/liter. When all is said and done, and even after buying 5 liters of good Tunisian olive oil, we find ourselves left with over 300 dinars between us. We decide to buy a small painting at an art exhibit in the marina (featuring the works of maƮtre Rokbani Med Habib and his students) and still have enough left over for one last dinner at the Calypso restaurant, where we've almost become regulars. Our waiter is more talkative than usual. "I'm actually a physics teacher. But I have to work in this restaurant to make a living."

In spite of the ungodly hour of our departure on Tuesday, the customs officer and port police come to the boat to check us out, and to confirm that we do not have any illegal Tunisians stowed in our closets. The customs officer seems even less pleased than I am to be up at this hour, but the policeman is cheerful and talkative. He slyly asks about the three bottles of whiskey we'd declared when we checked in. We'd been advised by other cruisers to bring along the whiskey to use as gifts but in fact, the men who'd worked on our boat had been non- drinkers, and the policeman who'd checked us in had had a preference for good Italian wine. Our new best friend is all smiles as he walks up the dock carrying two bottles of the cheapest whisky that can be found at the MD store in Marina di Ragusa.

At 4.30a.m., we finally throw off the docklines and sail into a beautiful sunrise for a quick passage to Pantelleria. By early evening, the sails are down, and we motor around the harbour of Pantelleria town looking for the places where Paul and Gabriela have suggested we can tie up for free. How we ended up paying 50 euros a night for a laid mooring at one of the bleakest, dirtiest docks we've ever seen is a long story. What's done is done, and in the end, it turned out to be a good thing. After all, if we hadn't gone in there, we would never have been taken under the wing of Kapitan Trutz, a German ex-merchant mariner who was living on his boat, on the hard, at the port.

But that's tomorrow's story.
Comments
Vessel Name: Aisling I
Vessel Make/Model: Slocum 43
Hailing Port: Halifax, NS, Canada
Crew: Rick and Bonnie Salsman
About:
Crew from Halifax to Horta: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Dave Morse, Wally Fraser Crew from Horta to Spain: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Al Salsman, Rob Salsman We left Halifax, N.S. in June 2007, sailed to Horta, and explored the Azores for a month. [...]
Extra:
The info below is a copy and paste from some literature about the Slocum 43. Please excuse the platitudes. Although I may like them , they are not truly mine. Aisling I is a 1987 Slocum 43, designed by Stan Huntingford. She has been designed to satisfy the sailor who wants the blue water, "get [...]
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Aisling I's Photos - Aisling I (Main)
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