It's rare that the Mediterranean hands us perfect sailing conditions, but that's exactly what happens on our passage from Pantelleria to Sicily. It's dead calm as we motor away from Pantelleria at 6 a.m., but by 9 a.m. we are making speeds of 6.5-7 knots on a beam reach in the 12 knot breeze, under genoa, staysail and full main. Our clean bottom and newly cut genoa are really paying off! On the radio, we hear repeated Security warnings about fog off Trapani. As Nova Scotians, we're pretty comfortable with sailing in thick fog, but we are thankful to have good visibility as we pass through the traffic zone. This shot of the AIS gives an idea of the number of boats out there!
By 2.30, the wind speed is up to 15-20 knots and the boat speed is creeping up over 7.5 knots at times. Two reefs in the main and furling the genoa to its reef point takes the strain off the rig and gives us some peace of mind. We make the rest of the journey at a comfortable 6-6.5 knots, pulling up to the dock at the Circolo Nautico Corallo in Sciaccca at 5 p.m.
Things at the Circolo Nautico have changed a bit since we last visited Sciacca with our friend Janet in 2008. Then, the Vice Commodore Vincenzo Russo had welcomed us with wine and cappuccino and had bent over backwards to make our stay pleasant, even taking us on a guided tour of the town, carrying along his English-Italian dictionary. What a disappointment when the ormeggiatore Augustine tells us that Vincenzo no longer comes to the club. "E troppo vecchio!" he shrugs. (He's too old!) The new club manager is all business. No cappuccino. No wine. He does knock the usual 40 euro/day fee down to 35 euros, but without Vincenzo here, I begin to wish that we'd docked at Lega Navale next store, where there are showers and laundry facilities.
Otherwise, Sciacca is just as nice as we'd remembered. The next day, we walk through the town in the blazing heat, admiring the interesting architecture and visiting many of the town's fine ceramic shops. After stopping at the local TIM store to renew our internet plan, we decide to take our hot and bedraggled selves out for granita. Where else but the "Bar Roma" near the port, highly recommended by both Michelin and Vincenzo? Here, the "Maestro of Granita", Aurelio Licata, squeezes fresh lemons to make granita that is said by some to be the best in Italy. Served with a delicious brioche, it's definitely better than any granita we've ever tasted, but then again, Canadians don't get much opportunity to try granita (which, in case you're wondering, is a frozen dessert made from water, fruit juice and sugar. Kind of like a snow cone, but way better). Aurelio asks if the Bar Roma is mentioned in the Rough Guide to Sicily, which he's spotted on our table. He's obviously disappointed when we tell him that it's not there, but delighted when we offer to write to them and suggest it. When Aurelio hears that we are travelling by boat, he presents us with four fresh lemons to take away with us! That afternoon, I do write to the Rough Guide and am rewarded with a coupon for a 20% reduction on my next purchase.
Next, we drop in to "La Vela" and make a reservation for dinner. We're uncomfortably aware that we've been eating out far too often, but how can we not go to La Vela, where we'd had such a fantastic meal with Janet in 2008? Nancy and Bob had also come back with good reports about La Vela after their visit to Sciacca last month. Carpe diem and all that; who knows if we'll ever be back this way! Our 8 p.m. reservation is a bit early for Sicily, so we are the first guests to arrive. Since Rick is in the midst of negotiating the sale of a commercial property for his father, and the batteries on all three of our cellphones have simultaneously died, we have to bring along the bulky satellite phone that we have never used. The waitress gives it a puzzled look, but fortunately, it does not ring as we work our way through a meal that is unbelievably generous even by Sicilian standards. Because we foolishly eat everything that's put in front of us, we are full even before the pasta and risotto arrives. And there's still a grilled fish to come! The waitress cheerfully packs up the leftovers for us, and it's enough for dinner the following night.
It's only about 60 miles from Sciacca to Licata, where we will leave the boat when we return to Canada in early July. But we'd like to have at least one night at anchor, so we stop at Porto Empodocles, about 30 miles down the coast. A bonus will be that we can meet Linda and Bill on Lati, who are stuck in Porto Empedocles trying to sort out engine problems. After corresponding with Linda through a "Women Who Sail" Facebook group, I know that they've already circumnavigated on their 45 foot boat Valiam, but have sailed 32-foot Lati from the Caribbean to explore the Mediterranean. Linda and Bill take their dinghy out to Aisling, and climb aboard bearing beer, wine and snacks. We have a lovely afternoon, and later, I enjoy reading Linda's book, "Sailing in my Sarong". Unfortunately, we don't go ashore at Porto Empedocles. Although Bill and Linda generously offer to ferry us ashore so that we won't have to launch the dinghy, the wind pipes up and we decide to stay onboard and eat our leftovers from La Vela. So if you want to know what Porto Empedocles is like, you'll have to look at
Linda and Bill's blog!
The next morning, it's a short sail to Licata. By noon, we're settled in our berth at the marina. So far, we haven't really explored this town either, but I'm sure we will!
Cruisers Notes:
Pantelleria:
There is a new and old harbour here. In the old harbour there are rocks in the middle so some care is needed. We were told by friends that you can tie along side here on the west side but when we were there there were a few boats tied up, stern to on the north wall and there did not appear to be any vacant and safe spot to tie alongside. In retrospect we probably could have tied along side on the North wall in the old harbour. We then went looking in the new harbour for a spot we had been told that you could tie alongside some older boats along the south end of the east wall. This was too tight for us so we opted to go bow to the south wall in east corner. This guy has laid lines but the caveat was he charges 50 euros per night. There is water and electricity included but nothing else. This is where we met Kapitan Trutz. We cleared into the EU in Pantelleria as we were coming from Tunisia. The Coast guard is on the road into town and were helpful, and for passport control we went to the Carabinieri which is past the Coast guard and take the 1st road to the right and about 100 meters further on there are a set of stairs on the right to the Carabinieri building where they stamped us in. There are supplies available in town from various supermarkets.
Sciacca:
There is no room to anchor here from what I could see. This is a busy fishing port with more than 100 draggers coming and going all day. There are two "Marinas" here just as you come into the harbour. We stayed at Circolo Nautico which is the first one as you come in. They are friendly and we had a great experience here in 2008 but Vincenzo is now retired. There are laid lines to be picked up and staff to help. They have washrooms and the water is non-potable. They do not have a shower. We paid 35 Euros per night.
The next marina in from Circolo Nautico is the Lega Navale. We have not stayed here but were told they do have showers and also a laundry.
There are supermarkets in town, up the hill, a well stocked chandlery along the harbour road to the west just before the turn up the hill. Ice is available near here as well. The restaurant Vela is right beside the Marina.
Porto Empedocle:
This is a short one as we just anchored overnight and did not go ashore. There is a small Marina here in the west part of the inner harbour. We anchored in the north end of the harbour straight in from the entrance. You are protected here from all wind directions except South. The pilot suggests it is rolly here in a south wind. We anchored in about 22' of water and the bottom was very thick black mud. Its so thick I thought I might have caught something on the bottom when I was leaving. I had to put the boat in gear to release the anchor from the mud. I would stop here again. Bill and Linda suggested that the town was nice, and the townspeople friendly and helpful.