Aisling I

18 July 2016 | Genoa
11 July 2016 | Genoa Italy
04 July 2016 | Genoa
02 July 2016 | Genoa
25 June 2016 | Porto Azzurro Elba
11 April 2016 | Marina di Ragusa
14 January 2016
25 September 2015 | Crotone Italy
18 September 2015 | Erikoussa
10 September 2015 | Preveza
10 September 2015 | Preveza
24 July 2015 | Preveza
13 July 2015 | Vlicho Bay
03 July 2015 | Preveza Greece
21 June 2015

On the Caravaggio Trial

20 September 2013 | Siracusa Sicily
Bonnie


There are many wonderful things to be seen in Malta. Perhaps that's an excuse for the fact that, when we visited Malta in 2009, we didn't visit the Co-Cathedral of St. John in Valletta. We would probably have made a bigger effort had we known that inside were two incredible paintings by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio.

Back then, we really didn't know much about Caravaggio. Our interest in him began later, during a quick visit to Rome on our way back to Halifax last year. While we were waiting to check in at our hotel, we received a text from our daughter Katherine suggesting that we visit the nearby Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo. The Crucifixion of St. Peter and Conversion of Saint Paul on the road to Damascus face each other on opposing walls of a small chapel inside the Basicila. Although we'd already seen Caravaggio's Burial of Santa Lucia in Siracusa, these paintings were in a league of their own; so lifelike and gripping that they are truly unforgettable. The use of light and shadow, for which Caravaggio is known, was stunning. Later, we saw Caravaggio's Deposition from the Cross in the Vatican Museum; keeping good company with works by Raphael, Titian and other masters.

I was quickly becoming a Caravaggio fan, but when I read up on his life it was a bit distressing to realize that this artistic genius had a reputation for violence, with a background that included killing a man during a brawl. As a result, Caravaggio was on the run for a good part of his short life. His path eventually took him to Malta, where he tried to redeem himself by joining the Order of the Knights of St. John. That venture ended with him fleeing from Malta after another altercation landed him in prison. How he escaped from a Valletta dungeon remains a mystery, but he left behind some of his finest works. The Beheading of St. John the Baptist and Saint Jerome Writing are both hanging in the Oratory of St. John's Co-Cathedral. If we needed a reason to take the bus from St. Paul's Bay into Valletta, these were two good ones. It took us 45 minutes to get there and over an hour to get back, but it was well worth the trip (even though in the end, we moved over to Msida marina near Valletta the next day and could have saved ourselves a lot of bother if we'd only waited a bit).

The interior of the Co-Cathedral is itself spectacular; paved with multicoloured marble tombs and lined with glittering chapels commemorating the various "langues" (nationalities) of the Knights of St. John's. Even Rick, who has become increasingly less enthusiastic about touring churches, was dumbfounded. Seeing the two Caravaggios in the Oratory was just the icing on the cake. I'd seen many reproductions of both paintings, but standing in front of the original Beheading of St. John was an unforgettable experience. The canvas is enormous and the scene it depicts is riveting. This painting is regarded by many to be Caravaggio's masterpiece, and it is also the only one of his works that bears his signature (in the blood that flow's from St. John's neck!) Photography is not permitted inside the Oratory, so the cover photo above is taken from a postcard, but it will give you an idea of what we saw. Photography is permitted inside the Cathedral though, so the photos of the interior below are Rick's. (The photo of the St. Jerome painting is a copy that hangs in the Cathedral, with the original in the Oratory.)

Now we're at anchor in the harbour of Siracusa, the Sicilian city that Caravaggio fled to when he left Malta. If the winds cooperate, we might sail up Messina and see the Adoration of the Shepherds and the Resurrection of Lazarus (two paintings in which, thankfully, no one is having his head cut off). If the weather doesn't cooperate, we'll hang out here for a while and catch up on a few things. If we run out of things to do, maybe we'll wander back to Church of Santa Lucia and have another look at the Burial of Santa Lucia. And if we're still at loose ends, we're always happy to sit in the Piazza Duomo, drink cappuccino, and watch the world go by!









Comments
Vessel Name: Aisling I
Vessel Make/Model: Slocum 43
Hailing Port: Halifax, NS, Canada
Crew: Rick and Bonnie Salsman
About:
Crew from Halifax to Horta: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Dave Morse, Wally Fraser Crew from Horta to Spain: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Al Salsman, Rob Salsman We left Halifax, N.S. in June 2007, sailed to Horta, and explored the Azores for a month. [...]
Extra:
The info below is a copy and paste from some literature about the Slocum 43. Please excuse the platitudes. Although I may like them , they are not truly mine. Aisling I is a 1987 Slocum 43, designed by Stan Huntingford. She has been designed to satisfy the sailor who wants the blue water, "get [...]
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