Aisling I

18 July 2016 | Genoa
11 July 2016 | Genoa Italy
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14 January 2016
25 September 2015 | Crotone Italy
18 September 2015 | Erikoussa
10 September 2015 | Preveza
10 September 2015 | Preveza
24 July 2015 | Preveza
13 July 2015 | Vlicho Bay
03 July 2015 | Preveza Greece
21 June 2015

The Bastards!

07 May 2014 | Salina, Aeolian Islands
Bonnie
Those who know us well can confirm that we're not normally prone to swearing. So I'm sure you'll believe us when we say that the term "bastards" is not of our choosing, but rather, comes from a User Manual for the Messina Straits issued by the Italian Ministry of Infrastructure and Transport. Here's a direct quote: "Along the coastal areas both on the Calabrian coast of Sicily, which formed the particular conditions that determine current flow, as opposed to the mainstream, known as "bastards." The section on riptides provides more detail. "Strait of Messina are alternated with short intervals of tired, currents of considerable intensity, directed toward the Tyrrhenian Sea (uprights) or towards the Ionian (descending)...These currents cause the counter those bastards that grow mainly along the coast of Sicily and Calabria. The intersection between current and counter causes the formation of these vortices Garofalo."

We're still working on figuring that one out.

We'd never heard of the Bastards, but most sailors have heard of the monsters Scylla and Charybdis that terrorized Odysseus in Homer's Odyssey. "In travail, sobbing, gaining on the current, we rowed into the strait, Skylla to port and on our starboard beam Kharybdis, dire gorge of the saltsea tide. By heaven! When she vomited all the sea was like a cauldron seething over intense fire."

Some think that earthquakes may have changed the topography of the area, moderating these sailor-sucking phenomena. But we'd already had a taste of what it was like to buck the current, and we weren't letting the Bastards get us. After a careful examination of the current tables with the harbor master, we decided to slip the docklines at 5.30 on Saturday morning, just half an hour before the current became slack. We did see lots of eddies in the water on our way out of the Strait but in the end, the scariest part was getting past the ferries.

A few hours later we sighted Stromboli, and by 1.30 p.m. we were tied up at Pignataro marina on the island of Lipari. For 6 years we'd been talking about going to the Aeolian islands, and we'd finally made it. Just on time to celebrate my birthday with lunch at the Ristorante Verdi, chosen solely because it was the first place we found open. It was beginning to rain, and we had no idea that Trip Advisor ranks Lo Verdi as 63rd out of 87 restaurants in Lipari. Watching the waitress clearing the tables with a cigarette dangling from the corner of her mouth was pretty entertaining, but she was very friendly and the two course meal that we had for 10 euros each (tuna, caper and tomato pasta followed by swordfish involtini) was delicious. The drips of rain that periodically landed on our necks did not dim our high spirits. After all, we'd gotten past the Bastards!
Comments
Vessel Name: Aisling I
Vessel Make/Model: Slocum 43
Hailing Port: Halifax, NS, Canada
Crew: Rick and Bonnie Salsman
About:
Crew from Halifax to Horta: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Dave Morse, Wally Fraser Crew from Horta to Spain: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Al Salsman, Rob Salsman We left Halifax, N.S. in June 2007, sailed to Horta, and explored the Azores for a month. [...]
Extra:
The info below is a copy and paste from some literature about the Slocum 43. Please excuse the platitudes. Although I may like them , they are not truly mine. Aisling I is a 1987 Slocum 43, designed by Stan Huntingford. She has been designed to satisfy the sailor who wants the blue water, "get [...]
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Aisling I's Photos - Aisling I (Main)
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