Aisling I
18 July 2016 | Genoa
11 July 2016 | Genoa Italy
04 July 2016 | Genoa
02 July 2016 | Genoa
25 June 2016 | Porto Azzurro Elba
11 April 2016 | Marina di Ragusa
21 March 2016 | Halifax
01 March 2016
14 January 2016
30 September 2015
25 September 2015 | Crotone Italy
18 September 2015 | Erikoussa
10 September 2015 | Preveza
10 September 2015 | Preveza
24 July 2015 | Preveza
20 July 2015 | Varko Bay
13 July 2015 | Vlicho Bay
09 July 2015
03 July 2015 | Preveza Greece
21 June 2015
Aeolian Islands Part 2: Vulcano
13 May 2014 | Naples
Bonnie
May 6th. No wind, so we don't bother to raise a sail to putter around the corner to Vulcano. The plan, hatched by the first mate and reluctantly approved by the skipper, is to climb to the summit of the Vulcano's volcano. The anchor digs in well on our first try in the small cove off Ponente. Within minutes, we have a visit from a fisherman, who sells us two orata (sea bream) for 5 euros. Supper!
The view from the anchorage is lovely, but it's already 1 o'clock, so we don't linger to enjoy it. We pack our knapsacks and launch the dinghy. Twenty minutes later, we are on the trail that will take us up the slope.
Vulcano's volcano is almost, but not quite, extinct. The last eruption occurred around 1888 and experts don't expect it to erupt again. Hopefully they're right, because the fumaroles that stream steadily from the edge of the Gran Cratere look a bit scary. The sulfurous gas being emitted is poisonous, so we'll keep our distance from that area and hope that the wind doesn't shift.
Supposedly there is a fee for climbing the volcano, but today it is not being collected. That's one advantage of travelling before the tourist season is in full swing. Another advantage of being here in the spring is that the mountainside is clothed in bright yellow broom. We'd expected to smell the rotten-egg smell of sulfur as we climbed, but instead we just smell the delicate scent of the flowers.
Most of the climbers on the trail are wearing heavy hiking boots and many are using Nordic walking poles. But a group of Germans walking just ahead of us seem to think they are out for a stroll along a boardwalk. One woman is actually wearing strappy wedge-heeled sandals with rhinestone trim! Later, I see a French woman wearing flip-flops.
In the beginning, the trail is tough going, because we are walking on sand. It's like walking up an endless, steep sand dune, or running on fresh snow -for each step we take, we seem to slide backwards half a step. I think I'm fairly fit, but after only 10 minutes my calves are complaining. We've left the boat wearing fleece jackets and jeans, but before long the fleeces come off and I'm wishing I'd worn shorts.
Finally, the trail changes to rock, which makes the going much easier.
Near the summit, we have to move aside for a large group of fairly elderly people who are making their way down. A "Road scholar" tour, probably. I joke about the bottleneck on Everest, but then realize that several of them really do look quite terrified. Hats off to them. I remember my friend Nancy pointing out that the true meaning of courage is to do something even though it scares you.
A few minutes later, we reach the lip of the crater. Two women are sitting on the ground smoking cigarettes, which somehow seems incongruous up here. Now we can definitely smell sulfur.
We peer down at the floor of the crater, where an enterprising group has spelled out "Team K" using stones. I propose that we climb down and change it to "Team R&B", but Rick thinks it's a bad idea.
We climb halfway down the slippery slope and I fall on my butt, then realizing that Rick is probably right. We climb back up and walk around the edge of the crater, noticing that there are wildflowers growing even up here.
But we are still not quite at the summit. "This is far enough" says Rick. "I'm ready for a birra grande." Nice try, and he almost convinces me, but I've come this far and I'm not giving up. That's my little rock on the top of the cairn.
The downhill walk is much easier. We walk through the town, taking photos of the flowers as we go. We see a few Vulcans, but they do not have pointy ears. It's surprisingly difficult to find an open bar or restaurant, but Rick finally gets his birra grande at a little place near the waterfront. Better still, it comes with a grande bowl of chips. Ravenous after the long hike, we polish it off in minutes and Rick goes back for another. On the way back to Ponente, we take a look at the fanghi (sulfurous mud baths). I wonder if it might get rid of a few wrinkles. May next time I'll try it.
We're back onboard just on time to enjoy the beautiful sunset, and the view from the afterdeck is on of the best we've seen since leaving Croatia. But there's a problem in paradise. The swell rolls in. Aisling rocks wildly from side to side to the point where it will be difficult to cook dinner. "I think it's time to buy a catamaran" I say. "I think it's time to put out a stern anchor" says Rick. It orients the stern to the swell and works like a charm, and now we can cook our fish in olive oil, oregano and garlic, just like they do in Greece. Delicious! It's been a very special day in a very special place.
Rick's Cruising Notes
You can tie up or anchor in the main harbour of Porto di Levante but we opted for Porto Ponente. It is open to the west and north west. We used a stern anchor to counter the slight swell and resulting roll. We anchored in 23' hard packed sand. Good hold. 5 boats anchored when we were there and room for several more. No services except a restaurant. Bought fresh fish from a fisherman there. Left our dinghy padlocked to the dock to do the hike up the volcano; 20 minute walk from Porto Ponente to the entrance of the trail. Groceries available in Porto Levante about a 15 minute walk from the dock.
The view from the anchorage is lovely, but it's already 1 o'clock, so we don't linger to enjoy it. We pack our knapsacks and launch the dinghy. Twenty minutes later, we are on the trail that will take us up the slope.
Vulcano's volcano is almost, but not quite, extinct. The last eruption occurred around 1888 and experts don't expect it to erupt again. Hopefully they're right, because the fumaroles that stream steadily from the edge of the Gran Cratere look a bit scary. The sulfurous gas being emitted is poisonous, so we'll keep our distance from that area and hope that the wind doesn't shift.
Supposedly there is a fee for climbing the volcano, but today it is not being collected. That's one advantage of travelling before the tourist season is in full swing. Another advantage of being here in the spring is that the mountainside is clothed in bright yellow broom. We'd expected to smell the rotten-egg smell of sulfur as we climbed, but instead we just smell the delicate scent of the flowers.
Most of the climbers on the trail are wearing heavy hiking boots and many are using Nordic walking poles. But a group of Germans walking just ahead of us seem to think they are out for a stroll along a boardwalk. One woman is actually wearing strappy wedge-heeled sandals with rhinestone trim! Later, I see a French woman wearing flip-flops.
In the beginning, the trail is tough going, because we are walking on sand. It's like walking up an endless, steep sand dune, or running on fresh snow -for each step we take, we seem to slide backwards half a step. I think I'm fairly fit, but after only 10 minutes my calves are complaining. We've left the boat wearing fleece jackets and jeans, but before long the fleeces come off and I'm wishing I'd worn shorts.
Finally, the trail changes to rock, which makes the going much easier.
Near the summit, we have to move aside for a large group of fairly elderly people who are making their way down. A "Road scholar" tour, probably. I joke about the bottleneck on Everest, but then realize that several of them really do look quite terrified. Hats off to them. I remember my friend Nancy pointing out that the true meaning of courage is to do something even though it scares you.
A few minutes later, we reach the lip of the crater. Two women are sitting on the ground smoking cigarettes, which somehow seems incongruous up here. Now we can definitely smell sulfur.
We peer down at the floor of the crater, where an enterprising group has spelled out "Team K" using stones. I propose that we climb down and change it to "Team R&B", but Rick thinks it's a bad idea.
We climb halfway down the slippery slope and I fall on my butt, then realizing that Rick is probably right. We climb back up and walk around the edge of the crater, noticing that there are wildflowers growing even up here.
But we are still not quite at the summit. "This is far enough" says Rick. "I'm ready for a birra grande." Nice try, and he almost convinces me, but I've come this far and I'm not giving up. That's my little rock on the top of the cairn.
The downhill walk is much easier. We walk through the town, taking photos of the flowers as we go. We see a few Vulcans, but they do not have pointy ears. It's surprisingly difficult to find an open bar or restaurant, but Rick finally gets his birra grande at a little place near the waterfront. Better still, it comes with a grande bowl of chips. Ravenous after the long hike, we polish it off in minutes and Rick goes back for another. On the way back to Ponente, we take a look at the fanghi (sulfurous mud baths). I wonder if it might get rid of a few wrinkles. May next time I'll try it.
We're back onboard just on time to enjoy the beautiful sunset, and the view from the afterdeck is on of the best we've seen since leaving Croatia. But there's a problem in paradise. The swell rolls in. Aisling rocks wildly from side to side to the point where it will be difficult to cook dinner. "I think it's time to buy a catamaran" I say. "I think it's time to put out a stern anchor" says Rick. It orients the stern to the swell and works like a charm, and now we can cook our fish in olive oil, oregano and garlic, just like they do in Greece. Delicious! It's been a very special day in a very special place.
Rick's Cruising Notes
You can tie up or anchor in the main harbour of Porto di Levante but we opted for Porto Ponente. It is open to the west and north west. We used a stern anchor to counter the slight swell and resulting roll. We anchored in 23' hard packed sand. Good hold. 5 boats anchored when we were there and room for several more. No services except a restaurant. Bought fresh fish from a fisherman there. Left our dinghy padlocked to the dock to do the hike up the volcano; 20 minute walk from Porto Ponente to the entrance of the trail. Groceries available in Porto Levante about a 15 minute walk from the dock.
Comments
| Vessel Name: | Aisling I |
| Vessel Make/Model: | Slocum 43 |
| Hailing Port: | Halifax, NS, Canada |
| Crew: | Rick and Bonnie Salsman |
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| Extra: | |
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Aisling I's Photos - Aisling I (Main)
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During the winter, we babysat Murphy Brown (a lovely poodle that belongs to our friends Wally and Martha) for 10 days. I had some fun capturing her in some of her favourite spots!
8 Photos
Created 16 May 2012
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Pics of Aisling at anchor, up top and down below.
23 Photos
Created 2 November 2008
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About Aisling 1
Who: Rick and Bonnie Salsman
Port: Halifax, NS, Canada
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