With Lyn and Kevin's departure date looming, we decide to visit the historic centre of Naples together. Driving in Naples is notoriously challenging, but Kevin is fearless behind the wheel, not even batting an eye when we encounter a construction zone and he has to reverse out of an impossibly narrow street. We find a parking place at the Piazza Garibaldi, and go on foot from there.
Goethe, who supposedly coined the phrase "See Naples and Die", would be shocked to see the state of this once-glorious city today. In some areas, damage dating back to WWII remains unrepaired. Naples' garbage problems are epic, with some saying the Cammora (the Campania version of the Mafia) are to blame. We've also been warned about bag-snatchers on scooters. But the city has made efforts to improve the crime statistics, and things are improving. One approach is obviously to make tourists more aware of the dangers. Shortly after we enter the historic centre, Kevin is approached by the Carabinieri and advised to take off his watch. Good advice, as it was a very nice watch. We recall our friend Ni telling us about having his watch grabbed by a thief on a scooter as he drove through Naples with his arm out the window. Those of you who know Ni will not be surprised to hear that the thief got the worst of that encounter. Ni still has the watch.
Yet in spite of the grime, Naples history as the wealthiest of the Italian city-states is in evidence everywhere. The city's long line of colonists and rulers includes Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans, Goths and Swabians (Germans), but most of the splendid buildings date to a period of Spanish rule from the 15th to the 19th century. It's hard to know where to begin, but we start with the beautiful Duomo (cathedral).
We make our way through the narrow and crowded streets of the city centre, where the abundant graffiti add to the general sense of seediness.
Yet the city is vibrant, and there are treasures around every corner. This statue is the poster child for the "Put the heads back in place" campaign to restore downtown Naples.
We are hoping to have lunch at Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo on Via Tribunale, which has been highly recommended by Katherine, but to our disappointment it is closed. We decide to just grab a table in a sidewalk café and order a round of Caprese Panini. When they arrive, the sandwiches are not grilled like North American panini, but are huge sub-style rolls stuffed with tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella. Lyn sets aside most of her bread, and raises the ire of the water, who tells her that "In Naples, we eat our bread!"
After lunch, our wanderings take us to the beautiful Piazza San Dominica Maggiore (shown in the photo above) where the scene is hopping with students and tourists. We visit the Chiesa di St. Angelo a Nilo and see the magnificent renaissance tomb of Cardinal Brancaccio, which includes a marble relief of the Assumption by sculptor Donatello. No pictures were allowed though, and no possibility of cheating.
Our friend Krissy, who knows Naples well, has highly recommended that we see the Veiled Christ in the Capella di San Savero, which is just around the corner. Although our guidebook says that it is closed on Tuesdays, luck is with us. The chapel is indeed closed, but the guard at the door suggests that we return at 7 p.m., when a special event with free admission will begin. Rick and I walk back to the car to feed the parking meter, leaving Lyn and Kevin to explore the alleyways around the chapel. Shortly after 7 we join the small crowd of Italians filing into the chapel. The special modern art event features a series of round mirrors placed on the floor so that they reflect the beautiful Trompe l'oeil ceiling of the chapel.
To our surprise, we are permitted to take photos. Sanmartino's Veiled Christ is incredible, and apparently the technique used for creating the veil remains a mystery.
Corradini's Modesty is also stunning.
The event even includes a wine and cheese buffet in the adjoining room, and the scene is buzzing. We feel like we've had a unique opportunity to get a glimpse of local culture.
We're back in Torre Del Greco on time for dinner at La Voce del Mare, and have yet another fantastic seafood meal. It seems increasingly obvious that it is difficult to find a bad restaurant around here. At a table in the corner, some Italian businessmen are having a great time, and we joke that they could be Mafiosi.
But the joke is on us, because they are watching us too. Eventually one of them comes over to the table and asks Kevin if he is German. They apparently have been laying bets with each other about our nationality. One of them tells Rick that he has a boat too, and 30 meters long! "Where do you keep it?" Rick asks. "In Italy!" is the response. He gives us a business card which has nothing on it but a name and phone number. At the door, they want to take some photos with us. It's one of those situations where speaking a bit more Italian would have made the encounter far more interesting.
Lyn and Kevin's visit had gone by in a flash. The next day, they drive to Rome, where they will have just enough time a quick tour of the city before flying back to Canada the next morning. The boat feels a bit empty, as is always the case when long-awaited guests leave.