After spending Sunday night at Ilot Mbe Kouen, we headed back to Noumea to finish off some official paperwork we'd overlooked (turned out we didn't actually need to go back at all in the end...). We took the cheap option Sunday night, and anchored amongst the moorings just outside Port Moselle Marina (allowed to do so, but space is pretty tight). First thing Monday morning Matt headed in to the Immigration office, while Sally eagerly headed to the markets, with a coffee and croissant planned before stocking up on some more local fish, fruit and veg. Most disappointing to find out the market closes on a Monday! Managed to find a bakery instead. The croissants are great here - but the coffee seems to be another story. Lucky for Matt, he doesn't drink coffee. I (Sally) have had zero luck getting a good coffee so far (despite desperate pleas of "FORT (strong) s'il vous plait"). In fact, after my most recent attempt, I'm calling it quits on ordering coffee, I haven't been able to finish a cup I've been served yet! From now on I'll be relying on the stove top machine on the boat.

We headed north again yesterday (Monday) morning with a lovely 10 knot side on breeze. We're anchored at another stereotypical island, with one other boat. Beautiful backdrop of seemingly uninhabited mountains on the mainland (Grande Terre) which stretch as far as the eye can see. Planning some snorkeling this morning, then will probably head across to the mainland, and anchor in a bay which we've read is supposed to be good for fishing. So far, Matt's had zero luck with fish (good job the market's full of them!). We've tried to find out info about fishing rules and regulations - seems like there aren't any really. Well, there are a few - but pretty lenient! Seems to be the French way here - people just do their own thing. This philosophy seems to extend to driving - it's a bit of a sport not getting run over crossing the street. We were a little confused at cars zooming straight through what seemed to be pedestrian crossings. We asked a local police officer - he explained that yes, the drivers WERE supposed to stop for pedestrians, but that - well - you know the French! (shrugging his shoulders). Best advice he had for us: make eye contact with the driver as you stride out across the road! (seems to work - so far at least...)