We've been in Fiji for a couple of weeks now, and loving it. We sailed from Vava'u (Tonga) west to Savusavu on the island of Vanua Levu (the second largest island in Fiji; Viti Levu to the SE is the largest island, with the towns of Suva and Nadi). We should have posted something to the blog during our few days in Savusavu while we had internet, but ended up rather distracted. So much going on around Savusavu, especially compared with Tonga. A bustling little town, people everywhere, lots of energy, and plenty of shops (including places to buy very cheap meals...). We'll post some more later about this. We headed off to Falaga on Saturday 20th July. We arrived the following day. What a place!! It's a beautiful island right at the southern end of the Lau group, which is the least developed group of islands in Fiji. People here are basically living a traditional style life. No electricity, cars, roads. Subsistence living. Again, we'll post some more, and hopefully some good pics once we have internet. We're going to stay here for another day, and head off Friday (we'd planned to sail north today, but have been invited to a "feast" ashore on Thursday, which we couldn't turn down). We'll head north for another large island in the Lau group: Vanua Balavu (probably stopping off at a couple of islands on the way, so we can do a few short sails, instead of overnighters). A few days there, then back to Savusavu to reprovision. Then off to the western island chains we think. Hope all is well with family and friends in Aus. Guess you've almost survived winter (we've somehow managing to cope with winter in the tropics).

We'd heard Swallow's Cave was a good place to go snorkelling. We nearly didn't get around to seeing it - but today (a couple of days before we plan to move to Fiji), we decided to give it a go. The conditions weren't great. Ideally you should go there mid afternoon in good sunlight, so the sun fills up the cave. It was overcast and a bit drizzly when we went there today. But it didn't matter a bit! It was SOooo impressive!!
We'd taken the dinghy to motor the mile or so from our anchorage in Port Maurelle (the place we'd initially tried to go to but were confronted with the 30+ rally boats - today there was a grand total of four boats there, and that included us). So yes - impressive inside the cave. We tied the dingy to a jagged piece of coral, jumped out and snorkelled around. Masses and masses of small fish swimming below us. You'd look down, and then see there was a whole other group below them.
It got even better when we snorkelled outside the cave along the edge of the island. Trillions of fish, all on the edge of a really steep drop off. Probably the best snorkelling we've ever done. Matt described it as like being in giant aquarium. Pity all we've got to show for it is a picture of the outside of the cave! (although that in itself looks pretty impressive itself; you can just see a glimpse of some snorkellers at the entrance). We do have an underwater camera on board. Really must learn how to use it. Along with the model yacht. And the drone...

On the left hand side (east) it’s completely open to the Pacific Ocean. But almost completely sheltered on the western side where we anchored.

As there’d been plenty of easterly wind on for quite a few days, the seas had built up quite a lot outside the fringing reef. We went ashore and walked over to the eastern side of Kenutu. So impressive! The waves had died down to a couple of metres by this stage, but they were still crashing in on the rocky cliffs. Exciting to watch – and a little scary. Well worth all the reef-dodging to get out to the east.

On our second attempt, we managed to navigate our way through some reefs to get out to Kenutu, and island right on the eastern fringe of Vava’u. It was well worth the effort. We’d used “kap” file maps we’d made using Google Earth imagery to help us work our way through the bommies (program is called Sat2Nav, formerly GE2KAP). The pic is a screenshot of what we were using.

We were heading into about 25 knots on our first attempt, without good sunlight, and some strong currents. After a short period of stress/upset/agitation where it seemed that we were going to run into a reef – multiple reefs – if we kept going, we abandoned the plan. The second attempt there was still 20 knots, but the seas had settled more, and we were armed with our kap charts. Still a bit tricky working our way through the reefs, but we could eyeball them pretty well. Often there was only a very narrow gap between the bommies. A bit disconcerting when you look to the left, and there’s a reef right next to you. Then you look to the right – and there’s a reef right next to you…

While at Tapana, we also treated ourselves to a meal out at a very rustic tapas restaurant which has apparently been operating for over 20 years. Lots of fun here, with the owners treating us to some Spanish inspired live music. Sally – usually pretty shy in playing music around others – could not contain herself, and joined in, playing bongos. Amazing the courage a couple of glasses of red brings!

We had quite a bit of adverse weather during our time in Vava’u, thanks to a trough that decided to park over the islands. This anchorage at Tapana was really well protected, and a lovely place to stay. As usual, when the weather’s not flash, there’s plenty of socialising with other boats. When the weather was predicted to be really unpleasant (30-40 knots), we scurried back to Neiafu. Turned out to be not that bad, and we ended up coming back to Tapana. Even in 30 knots plus Tapana would be a good spot.

Oh boy – there are a LOT – REALLY a LOT – of churches in Tonga. Probably not quite one per family, but close…
There’s one church that sits overlooking the town on Neiaufu. And then a second slightly less grandiose right next to it (shown in the photo). They’re in stark contrast to many of the other buildings.
We did go a church service, as we were keen to observe something that’s such a big part of the Tongan culture. We were on a small island with probably well under 100 inhabitants – but there were three churches. The one we ended up going to had about a dozen in the congregation. The singing was pretty impressive – certainly plenty of gusto! The sermon was something else – very “fire and brimstone”. An exceptionally stern minister (you could be forgiven for thinking he was extremely angry…), with lots of pointing, waving, yelling, frowning… He certainly had plenty of energy. We later walked back past the other two churches that hadn’t quite finished their services. There were only a handful of people in those as well.

Many of the businesses in Neiafu seem to be run by westerners. “The Hideaway” – a floating punt in the middle of the harbour which you can tie your dinghy up to – is no exception. We helped the owner “Bear” and some fellow cruisers from Canada celebrate Canada Day, by eating amazingly good fish and chips and drinking margaritas. Not a particularly Canadian thing to do, but no one seemed to mind.

We saw quite a few houses decorated like this (town of Pangai). We didn’t manage to find out why exactly. It was the King’s birthday around this time, but many of the decorations seemed to have been in place for a long time.
And actually, the cemeteries tend to look like this too – no joke! It’s not uncommon to see graves completely covered in artificial flowers, a large poster of the person, solar lights, bunting, etc etc. Quite something to behold!

Picture is of Matt windsurfing at Mounu – with not quite enough breeze.

A couple of days later we found a really good place to windsurf at the southern end of Taunga Island. Pretty marginal anchorage – we were only just happy to leave our boat anchored there. Sally opted out – shoulder tendinitis problems playing up after the last couple of outings. Matt however had a ball. He managed to really get going on the windsurfer for the first time, having 15-20 knots of flat water to play in. He came back ashore grinning from ear to ear. You’d have thought he was 18 years old! No picture as evidence unfortunately.

We spent three days windsurfing off this tiny island called Mounu. It’s a private kitesurfing resort, but the owner was very generous, and let us keep our windsurfing gear in a shed ashore each night. Rather rolly place to anchor – in fact, we picked up the resort mooring. But a lovely remote feeling. Conditions weren’t brilliant for windsurfing while we were there, but we had fun anyway.

When we were in Vanuatu in 2015, we noticed Digicel (phone company) advertising everywhere. They’ve got a pretty good hold in Tonga too. This pic is of a “shop” in Nua Papa, where you can buy Digicel data.

After spending a couple of days in Neiafu, we thought we’d head to the nearby anchorage of Port Maurelle. Only problem was that there’s currently a NZ yachting rally visiting Tonga – and 30 plus of the rally boats were already in the rather small anchorage. So plan B… (plenty of options for Plan B in Vava’u – anchorages/islands everywhere, and all quite close together). Plan B turned out to be Vakaeitu and Nua Papa islands. Very picturesque and well protected spot.
One of the village leaders in Nua Papa was telling us about his efforts to raise money to buy an outboard motor so the local children could attend school on the main island. He’d ended up with a sail boat which had been abandoned by some young yachties who’d been trying to sail around the world on a shoe string. Matt asked why they didn’t just sail the boat the 10 miles to Neiafu. He was absolutely horrified at the response: “Tongans don’t know how to sail, we only know outboard motors”. Matt has such a strong admiration for the early sailors who ended up populating the Pacific Islands. To hear that modern Tongans had lost the ability/knowledge to sail was rather confronting, to say the least.
Here’s a typical Tongan boat – with a large modern outboard engine.
You can also see a rather modern looking solar light. There are quite a few of these around Vava’u – all donated by the Japanese government. Given whale watching is Tonga’s main tourism attraction, you’d have to wonder at Japan’s motives…

We headed straight into the main town of Neiafu, keen to buy some supplies. Food options had been extremely limited in the Ha’apais. We were unable to buy many vegetables or fruits. We could buy starchy veg like tarot, but unable to buy even basic vegetables like tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots or capsicums. Luckily these are readily available in Neiafu. When feeling a bit over eating tomatoes/cucumbers/carrots/capsicums every day, we remind ourselves how good it is to actually have these!

We had a pretty brisk day sail from the Ha’apais up to Vava’u, arriving early afternoon. Matt had managed to catch an impressive sized yellow fin tuna, which we ate for many days, as well as giving plenty away. Pretty good!.

Note that there is no photo of the fish. Instead there’s a picture of a couple of the many islands that make up the Vava’u group. This is because Sally could not bring herself to post the picture of the defeated yellow fin tuna. He really did look a bit worse for wear by the time he given up the battle. (and yes, I know – rather poor form to cry “poor fishie” – and then proceed to eat – and enjoy – it…)

Okay, things have been a little slack on the blog front. And of course it’s entirely Sally’s fault. There’s a seriously strong procrastination gene somewhere there…
So what did we do the last few days in the Ha’apais before heading north to Vava’u? Sally’s birthday was in there somewhere, with another meal ashore at a resort. There was plenty of socialising with other cruisers. Matt finally managed to get out on the windsurfer at a picturesque island called Uoleva, home to a kiteboarding resort. Winds were a bit much for Sally’s beginning level skills, but Matt had a good go. Not great conditions – as we were rigging up by the lagoon, one of the kitsurfers wandered over, said hi, and casually asked if we knew how deep the lagoon was at the time. We shook our heads. He explained that the kitesurfers had all come in because they were hitting the bottom – and the fins on their boards are tiny. Matt decided to have a go in the deeper water on the leeward side of the island, and got some good runs in. We noticed one of the kitesurfers out there too – but then noticed the instructors sprinting over to the rescue boat to go out and help get her back in!
Pic’s not great, but it shows the northern end of Uoleva.

With no islands out to the west, except for a few volcanos, the horizon is clear and sunsets quite dramatic. Paradise!
The weather is a bit changeable at present so we'll hang out around Lifuka Island for a while before heading north to Vava'au group of islands. This is the main cruising area in Tonga. There are 20 boats there at present on a world rally and 40 boats in a NZ rally behind us somewhere. We're trying hard to avoid the crowds.

The Tongans use gas for cooking and there are plenty of outlets selling or re-filling. Safety is not much of an issue and things can be a bit rudimentary.
The pic shows a fit Tongan pumping the liquid gas by hand. The pump was barely operational with every joint slogged out and need for constant greasing of the shaft. But that’s how things go in Tonga. We pay our $ and trolley away a full bottle.

The forecast is for some building NE to N winds so we retreat a few miles back to Pangai. Extracting ourselves turned out to be not so easy. Although we were following our track Matt took a small wrong turn and ended up in a circular spot with coral all around. We stop , re-focus and find another route with Sally spotting on the bow. Another boat which had just left radioed asking if we were ok. Well we were eventually. They suggested an anchorage not in our cruising guide so we followed them in to a spot two miles north of Pangai. Another resort! So we have to try out the fare and hamburgers with big beers is the go. To balance things out we take a walk afterwards. The pic shows school children we encounter walking home from school. The literacy rate in Tonga is reported to be over 97% and they take great pride in wearing colourful uniforms. Each school has a different uniform. One thing they have picked up from Western culture is the value of education.