We anchored near the most popular area in the Kuna Yala, what is known as "the swimming pool" near the BBQ Island. The number of boats there surprised us, we counted well over 30 boats while approaching the chain of islands. Islands near the mainland you can have to yourself, the water might be not as clear and the islands perhaps mangrove and bug infested. But in the more attractive spots, you find a number of sailors hanging out for years or waiting for the right time to cross the Panama canal. There is also some Tourism on a small scale, we found eco-lodges in the Lemon Cays, with toilets over the waters edge on stilts and a small generator for lights. They even serve cold beer, which is forbidden for the Kuna´s to consume.

We found a beautiful spot behind one of the islands, what a difference to noisy, dusty and windy Santa Marta! The Chief of the Holandes Cays came paddling in his dugout to our boat, we invited him on board. We even got a welcome present, Avocados from the island, there are also breadfruit, plantains and of course lots of coconuts available. We paid happily our contribution of $10.- (anchoring fee for one month) and could exchange a few niceties, since the Chief spoke more English than we speak Spanish. All the discomfort of the last 24 hours were forgotten, we jumped in the water and snorkeled the reef, saw the biggest swarm of little fish ever, it must have been millions, we were enveloped in a huge cloud of sardine sized school of fish for many minutes. From a distance the school of fish looked like a huge hump back whale. My only hope was that there was no shark at the end of the line, in fact there were 5 big cravelles chasing them.