02/03/2010, Swimming Pool, San Blas
Tuesday, 9 February. Yesterday we sailed from Yansaladup to the Eastern Holandes. We anchored in a delightful area called “The Swimming Pool” because it is so clear over a sandy bottom it looks like a pool. There were about a dozen or so other boats there as well, but still plenty of room to anchor comfortably. After anchoring, we swam from the boat to a little patch of reef called “Barracuda Reef” that had very healthy coral in a sandy base rising to about 3'. There were, indeed, quite a few barracuda swimming around the drop off so spear fishing was not a good idea – I think we would have fed them rather than ourselves. At 5:00, there was a pot luck happy hour on the beach at BBQ island just N of our anchorage. About 50 people showed up and we had a great time, meeting folks from all over and learning a bit more about the area. Today we plan to do more exploring by dink and snorkeling with maybe some beach combing thrown in. Tough way to spend your birthday!
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02/03/2010, Yansaladup, San Blas
Saturday, 6 February. Now we are HERE. We are not “voyaging”. We have no schedule or specific destinations. This morning we decided to visit Dog Cay first and snorkel the wreck there. We left Porvenir about 9:00 for the 1 hour sail to dog. We anchored in 18' of water over sand, but then swung back to 10' over coral. When we went snorkeling off the boat, we found that the coral was in long ridges about 10' deep with canyons of sand about 20' deep in between. The edges were just beautiful. Cynde found a huge crab – body over 8” and claws bigger than my hand. Unfortunately we had no way to snare it and it was too deep to spend much time chasing. Lots of pretty coral and reef fish as well. After that swim, we took dink in to Dog Cay to see the wreck. It is an old freighter whose bow is in about 6' of water and the stern in 20'. As we approached the beach, the outboard would not tilt up. Upon inspection it proved that the mount which pivots up and down had cracked and was separated. Both halves are still firmly attached and it will probably hold together until we get home, but I think we will not do any planing and we will have to anchor the dink rather than pull it up on shore. Once I got that straightened out, I rejoined the rest on the beach and snorkeled the wreck. It was really cool with lots of fish despite the fact that there were probably 100 people swimming around at the time. We saw angel fish, french hog fish, file fish and even a grouper in addition to the usual reef fish – parrots, tangs, etc. Since Dog is not considered a good overnight anchorage (I'm not sure why, I looked perfectly good to me where we were.), we decided to go to Yansaladup, an isolated island with over 2 miles of reef and sand stretching to the East. There was only one other boat there and he was anchored quite a ways from our desired spot, so it was perfect. After dropping the anchor in sand @ 18' and dropping back to over 30' but holding securely, we all swam in the very clear water. I took one of the kayaks on a circumnavigation of the island and found sand, coral, and grass – some VERY shallow (like the kayak dragged), but nothing that looked to be worth snorkeling. It turned cloudy and we all spent the rest of the afternoon just hanging out. It is so peaceful just laying out in the tramp listening to the roar of the surf on the reef. Tomorrow we will exp [lore some more and maybe we will stay here and maybe we will move. We have no firm plans. I like it that way.
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02/03/2010, Porvenir, San Blas
Thursday, 4 February. In the morning we went into town and got a few last chance provisions, then went over to the old fort, San Fernando, dating from the 17th century. It was somewhat restored and just open to wander about. Fantastic views from the top battery of cannon. (We have pics to post someday when we get internet, but don't hold your breath.) About noon, we set sail for Isla Linton, “the best protected anchorage on the coast.” It was a boisterous sail in 20+ kt. Winds, but at least the angle was such that we could sail. When we got to Isla Linton, we found about 20 other boats already anchored there. We wandered around looking for something less than 30' to anchor and found none. Finally a friendly cruiser told us to forget finding shallow water and just anchor in the cover which was quiet and calm and 30' deep. We did, on the second try with 150' then the kellet, 25' and the bridle. Held securely and we had a great night.
Friday, 5 February. . Knowing we had nearly 50 miles to reach San Blas, we got up early, but really didn't have enough light to leave until 7:00. Since we were already 80% of the way through the cut between Isla Linton and Isla Grande, we just went out that way and saved about 2 miles. The first section was motor sailing into 15-20 kts., but then we were able to sail close hauled for the rest of the way to San Blas. We danced back and forth over the edge of Escenada banks where the bottom went from 130' to 30' and back and forth over a very narrow shelf, but could not scare up a fish. Finally we arrived at Isla Porvenir and on the third try found anchorage. The hook was in 20' but the boat was in 50'. We have nearly 200' of chain out plus the kellet. I feel secure. Ron & I went ashore to clear in, but it was after 4:00 and the imigration officer had left and was out swimming in the bay. We agreed that we would return manana, but as we approached the dink, the Immigration officer came out of the water and suggested that we clear in today as tomorrow was Saturday. He looked at our Zarpe, our cruising permit, and our pensionado cards and said we were all set and didn't need anything further. “NO CHARGE!” Back at the boat, Deb & Cindy had already been approached by Kuna and had purchased some molas. While Ron & I were trying out the inflatible kayaks that we brought, the women had more visitors and bought “tuna”, two fish, about 12” each and not fileted. Oh well, I got what meat there was from them and seared it for appetizers. It was good. Now that we are here, it will be less sailing and more exploring, snorkeling, swimming, etc.
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02/03/2010, Porto Belo
Wednesday, 3 February. Yesterday afternoon we took dink up a couple different tributaries of the Chagres river (Deb was afraid of crocs and would not kayak). Twisting and narrow deep within the jungle. Howler monkeys calling, butterflies the most brilliant blue you have ever seen, kingfishers and swallows swooping and diving. Truly magical. A very peaceful night. In the morning, we motored out the river to find not the predicted 9 kts from N, but 20-25 kts! Of course, we were headed NE. We put up the double reefed main and motorsailed first NNW to clear the ship anchorage outside the Panama Canal, and then NE straight to Porto Belo. Made 4-5 kts reasonably comfortably. Once securely anchored, we went into town and found an internet cafe to do our last “business” over the internet. Cindy & I stopped by Homer's Odyssey who has told us how to find the internet cafe to thank them and ended up coming aboard to have a drink and meet another couple the husband of whom was having a birthday. Both couples were long term cruisers and very interesting people. Back on Always, Cindy made tacos and I made margaritas for dinner. Another great night at anchor.
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02/03/2010, Yansaladup, San Blas
Sunday, 7 February. The day dawned overcast which was OK as we were planning a “down” day anyway. Deb wanted to do laundry and I wanted to try to do something about the outboard. After a lazy morning, Ron & I took the dink in to the beach to see what we could do about the motor. We detached it from the stern and laid it down inside the dink then dragged dink up on shore. With the motor off, we could clearly see the crack in the housing and the problem with the latch that kept it up or down. After much debate, we decided that a bolt between the two broken halves might be the best bet for holding things together until we get back to Bocas and can find a replacement. After several kayak trips back and forth to get needed tools and parts, we drilled the casing and inserted a stainless steel bolt between the broken halves. After tightening it securely, things seemed better and we put the motor back on dink. In the process we met the one Kuna man living on the island with his wife. He told us he had lived here all of his 60 years! I gave him a beer (I had brought back two on my last kayak trip) and we were friends (but I didn't get any beer to drink). Later in the afternoon, he and his wife came out to the boat to ask us to charge their cell phone (which we, of course, did.) The clash of primitive and modern here is pretty amazing! They live in a thatch hut with no electricity or running water, but they have a cell phone. By the time we got back to the boat, laundry was done. After lunch, we took turns floating out behind the boat on little inflatables that Ron & Cynde had brought with the women getting “titty tans” as Cynde called it. I tried hunting for conch, but the only “live” ones I found were inhabited by hermit crabs, not conch. Later we played Hearts and Deb was the big winner (she had been consistently losing up until now). Life is pretty tough.
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