Mark's "adventure"
13 June 2016 | Havana
Mark
Deb had some digestive issues Tues morning, so I went out by myself to check out some of the possible options to visit later. I walked up to the Capitolo and Parque Central. The Capitolo is a copy of the US Capital building - currently under going renovation. I found Fabrique de Partagas - the cigar factory where you could supposedly watch cigars being made. EXCEPT the factory had moved to another part of town, "Tickets available at most hotels." But the store was still open - with outrageous prices! The cheapest thing they had was a box of 25 small Cohiba's for $135.00cuc. I didn't buy anything. (Later I found a 'Cooperativo" that had about the same selection - WITH OFFICIAL GOVT TAX STICKERS - for half the price, so I got some there. I was looking for Nacional Cabaret in hopes that they might have a performance before we left when I came upon a very unusual store - Institute d'Arte. It had most of the traditional instruments for sale - including stand up bass! - a million or more CDs, some rustic hand made furniture, other 'artisan' objects, ice cream and a small grocery. Quite the combo! Outside the door, I asked the security guard where the Nacional Cabaret was. Closed for Renovation - I'm beginning to not like that phrase. Just then a large man came along and greeted me, "Where are you from?" as always. "US" "US, my father is in US - Boston, Massachusetts." "My son is there too." We chatted a bit, he told me that his group - 12 musicians, he plays bongos - was playing tonight at the House of Music - Guantanamera. He would give me free passes, but had nothing to write with or on, so we went to a nearby bar so he could write the passes. Of course we had to have a drink, but instead of 2 drinks, the waitress brought 4 - 2 mojitos (Hemingway) and 2 Cuba Libre (Fidel). The bill for all 4 was $20.00cuc. I should have known then that something was fishy. He said that he would give me details of his father and get details of Lucas when we saw him tonight. Back at the room, Deb was feeling better so we went out for a walk. She was hungry, so we checked out several places and finally ended up with a pizza at Cafe Paris - with live music. She had wanted a hamburger, but even those places who had it on the menu did not have one. After lunch, we walked around a bit more, looking at a couple galleries and then came back to the room to cool off and rest before going out for the night. I went and did internet. Somewhat after 7:00 we went out to find dinner. I had seen several restaurants on Obispo offering full dinners - with a drink - for $10.00cuc as a daily special. First we ran into a young couple who greet us warmly, and showed us a couple paladars, but we weren't interested. Then he said that the piano player from Buena Vista Social Club was playing a 'free concert' for his 89th birthday at a cafe just around the corner. We went there and met him (I cannot spell his name without seeing it, but I recognized him as the real thing). We wished him 'feliz cumpleanos' and shook hands promising to return ~8:00. We then ended up at La Calesa Real which had A/C, live music, and more traditional Cuban food for dinner. The daiquiris (you have to pronounce every letter - da-i-qui-ri) we very good. Deb was still feeling cautious and so had tomato soup and rice, but I had a delicious roast leg of pork with mojo sauce - really good. Leaving there, we walked back to the cafe to find it closed! I stuck my head in and the bartender who was cleaning up said, "Tomorrow @ 3:00." which seemed odd. We got a bici-taxi to take us to the House of Music on Galiano to see the show we had free passes for. When we got to the House of Music, it was closed for renovations (I really do hate that phrase.) I showed the taxi guy the pass. It said, "Guantanamara" "Buena Vista Social Club" and "Giliano". He said the address was not good, but he could take us to "Guantanamara" where "The Buena Vista Social Club" was playing. We went there. It was a swanky joint where the driver had to slip on a sport jacket to even get up the stairs. No, we didn't have a reservation, so there was no hope of getting in. And my 'pass' was totally meaningless to them. As a last resort, the driver took us to Plaza Vieja where he assured us we would find 'traditional' music. i gave him a $10.00cc instead of the $5.00 we originally agreed upon, but he then said it was 'per person' so wanted $20.00cuc. I guess he earned it, but I couldn't help but feel I had been scammed all around. We did find La Vetrolo which had very nice live music and the best mojitos I have had in Cuba. When I told the waiter that, he said everyone says so. A group of 3 Mexican girls (20's) overheard us and one of them came over to ask if we had had the mojitos at Bodequita de Medio which they thought were the best. No we hadn't, but these were very good. They decided to try them and were very politic about how good they were, but I think that meant they still liked the others better. Maybe we will have to try one today. (It is where Hemingway drank mojitos.) All in all it was a crazy mixed up day, but we had a lovely evening despite it and after a couple drinks and a cigar while listening to the music, we went home happy.