A Day of Contrast.
12 March 2010 | Punta Limon
Mark
Thursday, 12 March. We awoke to a dead flat sea. We had turned 180* during the night and were now facing SE. I don't believe it was the final arrival of the predicted SE wind, rather it was just the adiabatic reversal with the cooling mountains creating an off shore breeze that where we were just happened to be SE. Knowing that without wind it would be a long day, we got underway by 7:30. As I fired up the AIS, it displayed 97 targets within range the Panama Canal is a busy place! Fortunately most ships were at anchor with only a few moving, so we set a direct course through the Atlantic Anchorage (for ships awaiting transit) and motored out making 5+ kts. with only one engine. (If we are going to have to motor all the way home, I need to conserve diesel.) As we transited the anchorage, more and more ships got under way. The radio was alive with the traffic as ships asked and received permission to heave anchor, get under way, approach the breakwater, etc. Only once did a ship anchored off to our starboard weigh anchor and cross directly in front of us. African Lark is a BIG tanker, especially at close range. We were close enough that as we passed astern of it, the water was still riled by its prop wash. And then they were gone. As soon as we passed out of the W side of the anchorage, we were alone. A faint wind was building (for dead ahead, of course) and it slowed our progress to 4.5 kts. We considered dropping out at Rio Chagres and returning there, cutting the day's travel in half, but decided to press on. The sea was still flat with maybe a 6-12 NE swell and tiny ripples on the surface. By 10:00, we had enough wind at 30* apparent that I raised the main and we got our speed back above 5 kts. The true wind was filling in from the N, again probably and adiabatic, on shore breeze. By 2:00, I shut down the engine and we sailed. First about 5 kts., but gradually increasing so that by the time we approached Pt. Limon, we were making 7 kts. under sail. Not bad for about 8 kts. true wind! Punta Limon turns out to be a pretty minimally protected anchorage. I guess it the winds and swell were from the NE as is most common, it would have been better, but as it was, we were looking at a lee shore with absolutely nothing tempering the swell or waves. And there was one other boat already anchored. It was nearly 4:00 and there were not other options. Fortunately the wind was still below 10 kts. and would likely die with sunset. The swells increased in the shallow water approaching shore, but were still only 3-4' max and mostly 2' or so. We anchored a respectable distance from the other boat, also a cat, and expected to see its inhabitants come out to see where we anchored, perhaps say hi, etc. Nada. It was as if the boat were empty, yet the dinghy was still in the davits. About an hour or so after we anchored, I briefly saw a man on deck, but he never looked our way and quickly vanished back into the boat. At night, there was no anchor light or any lights inside the boat except for a flash light that would come on briefly every now and then. Strange. Maybe in the morning we will see them.