A Better Day.
14 March 2010 | Escudo de Veraguas
Mark
Sunday, 14 March. As predicted, it was a pretty rolly night. While we were watching Lost on DVD the boat was lurching all over the place as the wind had dropped and the swell was hitting us broadside. It calmed down some overnight. By morning there was no wind and the sea was flat except for a remaining 2- 3' swell. We decided to leave for Veraguas while it was at least not an unfavorable wind. We were under way by 7:30. By 8:30 there was enough wind to make raising the main worthwhile. The wind was really from the SW, but with our forward progress towards the NW, the apparent wind was only 30* to port, enough to make motor sailing worthwhile, but not enough to sail. We continued this way the whole distance to Veraguas. Since we were essentially in blue water, crossing from the mainland to an island, I thought it might be worthwhile to try fishing (which had been futile so far). It put out two lines and half way across, I got a hit on the hand line with the fake fish on it. What looked like a decent sized tuna jumped into the air and then was gone. Maybe it was only a barracuda, but it looked fatter. In any event, it was not going to be our supper tonight. We arrived at Veraguas about 1:00 PM. The sea was dead flat with only 3-4 kts. of breeze from the W. We started at the far E end of the island and worked our way W until we found this nice secluded beach that it looked like we could anchor off. We had to dodge a few coral beds on the way in, but we ended up anchored in 10' over sand with plenty of swing room. There were two other boats anchored on the W side of the island, but they were more than 2 nm. away. In front of us stretched a beautiful deserted beach, accessible only by water and several sandstone cliffs dropping right to the water's edge. We took the kayak in and explored the beach. The waters off the beach had a gazillion fish. All about 1½ long, they were so dense, they looked like grass on the bottom. I mean, we had a mass of fish about 3' deep, 10-25' wide and about a quarter mile long. As I waded through them, some type of large predator came through scattering them as he went. I'm not sure what type of fish it was. It was fatter than a barracuda, not as flat as a shark, but large, 3-4' long, and silvery. And the fish didn't like it. After Deb had collected shells and plants, we got back in the kayak and paddled along the shore. We were able to just barely drift over very shallow coral in some places to get into little isolated bays. In one spot we found dozens of fish vertebrae. No obvious reason why they were there, just lying in 2-3' of water near the shore. We met some folks from one of the other boats who were exploring by dinghy (but could not get into the shallows like we could). They were from Maine! They, too, had been to Kuna Yala and were headed for Bocas. We talked for a while and gave them a few pointers about Bocas and then continued on. At the far E end of the island are several small cays strung out amongst the coral. As we paddled around them, some not even 100' in diameter, it was amazing how one edge would be 3 deep and the other 10-15' deep. Really quite a cool area. Back at the boat, I floated ankle tied behind the boat with a beer while Deb laid in the sun in the net and read. What little wind there was had shifted and we could see the anchor chain wind back from the kellet (which was anchoring us) along side the boat to the anchor that was totally buried right behind the port stern. As long as it isn't buggy, this will be a great anchorage.