The night
12 February 2011 | Portobelo
Mark
We are now safely anchored in Portobelo. It was quite a night. Because we had made such good time during the day, we needed to slow down during the night to avoid arriving before dawn. This was especially important as the hours just before dawn would be moonless. I took in a reef in the main and then a second and then rolled up most of gennie. Eventually I got our speed down to 4 kts which would put us arriving in Portobelo about 7:00 AM. The wind continued to build, however, and soon we were back up to 6 kts even reefed way down. A rain squall brought winds of 25-28 kts. I rolled up more gennie. By the time Deb relieved me @ midnight, I had our speed back down to 4 kts and moving quite comfortably. Of course after less than an hour she had to wake me as our speed fell to 1 kt! After trimming the sails and letting out more gennie, I returned to sleep. Our speed built to over 8 kts., but Deb didn't want to disturb me and eventually it settled down to ~4 kts again. When she woke me at 4:00, we were still ~ 6 nm from the Canal Zone, but the AIS was already displaying 98 "targets" some of which were directly in our path. I checked the data on each one that would be close to our path and most were moving either N or S and would present no problem. (We were well N of the designated anchorage by design.) One ship was disturbing, however. "MSC Olga" was a cargo ship 1000' long and "Not under Command." It was moving @0.9 kts in a SSE direction that crossed our path. Now frequently we see ships that are "At Anchor" making 26 kts. or "Under way using engine" at 0.1 kts. as that data is input manually and people forget to change it. Ships at anchor frequently display speeds of 0.1 kts or even 0.2 kts as they swing. But I had never seen a ship display "Not under Command" before and 0.9 kts was too fast for swinging on anchor. Was it adrift so close to the Canal??! As we neared it I clearly made out two red lights arranged vertically one under the other - one of the few signal lights I remember, "Red over red, Captain dead". Its superstructure was well lit up and it appeared not to be moving. I hailed her, but got no answer. (First time I have ever hailed a ship at sea and not gotten an answer.) As we approached, a spot light came on and clearly picked us out, but still no answer to hailing on VHF. Given the wind angle and our course, I more or less had to pass in front of her which I did with fear and trembling that at any moment she might pick up speed across our path. I could turn and run parallel to her or even turn greater than 90* and run back away from her port, but I didn't need to. We crossed about 1/4 nm in front of her as she lay apparently motionless in the water. I could not detect the 0.9 kts movement if it was real. It took an agonizingly long time to pass her and finally be clear, but nothing untoward happened. I resumed course and proceeded on our way to Portobelo. That was our only "encounter" of the night and the rest of the watch was highlighted by dawn over the mainland which was cloaked in clouds, quite spectacular. Deb got up just before I was going to wake her for the approach to Portobelo harbor and anchoring. We anchored very near were we did last year in soft sand that was shoaling rapidly at the end of the harbor. Then we both went to bed for some REAL sleep. This afternoon we will go ashore to the town which is a quaint and funky sort of experience. Tomorrow we continue on toward the San Blas.