I went in to shore one last time to try and get gas and use the internet. Still no gasoline, perhaps “manana.” Yeah, right. Hey, the dinghy tank is 2/3 full so we should be fine for quite a while. We're taking off. It is strange. The Lemmons are supposed to have great snorkeling, but we have stayed here twice now and never gone snorkeling. Last year it was too windy and cloudy and this year Deb was just not up to it. I might have gone alone, but there is no place to snorkel close to where you can anchor, so you need to take the dinghy out and finding a safe place to anchor the dinghy is not easy as the depths are so great right up to the reef. Oh, well, eventually we will get to snorkel here, just not this time. We motored back out over the bars the same we we had come in without problems. Must have hit the outer bar exactly right this time as I never saw less than 9'. Once outside the reef, we raised the main and motor-sailed E to the Holandes. This is the outermost reef system and has the best water clarity. It has many possibilities for anchoring and is very popular as a result. Out plan was to start @ the Western Holandes and if that was too crowded, keep going E until we found a good spot. At the Eastern end of the chain is a place called “the swimming pool” which is very protected and has room for 30 or so boats. We can always find a place there. As we were heading E, we passed a fellow Fountaine-Pajot headed W. He hailed us on the VHF to inquire about what model, year, etc. He said he had just left Bug Island and six other boats had left at the same time so there was lots of room there. Good to know, but that is the far E end and we decided to stick to our plan. Turning in toward Acuakargana & Waisaladup, we saw two boats anchored fairly close together about half way down the coast of Waisaladup. We had planned to anchor more or less there, but there was also an area at the far W end of the island that looked potentially good on the chart. We didn't want to anchor between the islands even though there would be no waves due to the unbroken reef there, but with winds predicted to be near 20, we wanted some relief from the island itself. We angled in to a sandy spot in 23' and dropped the hook. By the time we were settled, we were in perfectly calm water and the wind had dropped to about half of what the true wind was. We were far enough way from the other boats that they didn't matter. Perfect. Both islands have beautiful sandy beaches and what looked like it might be interesting coral reef right off the beach. We took dinghy ashore and enjoyed walking the beaches and finding lots of treasures. I even found another Christmas gift for Poppy! While Deb continued walking, I swam out to a section of reef to look about. A lot of what had looked like reef was grass covered areas that were 2-3' higher than the surrounding sand and so caused the surf to break. On the outer edge (back towards the boat), however, there was some nice coral and tons of fish. The windward side of Waisaladup was all marl and the reef was some distance off shore so not really accessible. Acuakargana, however, had sandy beaches all around although it was still mostly marl out to the reef. There was one finger of deep water that extended in through the reef almost to shore. I walked across a 3-4” deep section to check it out and found the depths dropped immediately to 6-10', but there was little coral along the sides and swimming out to the break in the actual reef would have required major effort as the water just poured into the cut. So we strolled the beach some more and eventually took dink back to Always. When we got there, one of the boats had left and shortly after that, the other left. Alone again, well almost. A Kuna family approached in their ulu – husband, wife, son about 5 or 6, and baby girl about 3. The boy spoke Spanish well and could count to 10 in English. We gave them coke and cookies (cervesa for the man) while Deb looked at her molas. They were unlike any we had seen. The designs were fantastic and the execution superb. Several were done in a monochrome theme that we had never seen. Martinez, the husband, and I exchanged pleasantries while the women reviewed the molas. Deb ended up buying 4 molas as well as a mask (like for Carnival). As they were leaving, we spotted another sailboat headed this way. Sure enough, it eventually anchored just about where the previous boats had been. Oh well, not 100% ours, but the island is big enough to share and we still have plenty of privacy.