Happy Saint Patty's Day!
18 March 2011 | San Blas Islands, Panama
Mark
As predicted, the wind has started to howl. Mostly you can hear it and see it in the waves. The back waves that curl in toward the shore on the leeward side are now breaking violently with the wind blowing their tops off quite impressively. Outside on the windward reef waves are really crashing. Some look to be 15' or more. We saw a Coast Guard cutter (US) passing by fairly close to the reef and he was putting his bow totally out of the water and then crashing down to where he nearly buried it. Of course, he was powering along full steam ahead so he was probably experiencing close to 40 kts. apparent. If you stand where you are unprotected, you are probably facing 20-25 kts., but here in our protected little spot, we are seeing nearer 10-15, enough to keep Windy (our faithful wind generator) happy, but very pleasant. Despite the wind, the sun is shining and it is a lovely day. We read and puttered most of the morning. (I am still working on Lizza's book.) Shortly before noon, an ulu approached with fish to sell. He had a nice size snapper and a big grouper. We ended up buying the grouper for $20. (The Kuna are catching on to 'gringo' prices and realize that if I won't buy it, perhaps the next boat will. As long as there are other boats in the anchorage, my bargaining power is limited, another reason we prefer deserted anchorages!) I did the 'filet and release' trick on it and ended up with enough fish for probably four meals for the two of us. After lunch we went in to the island and walked about the beaches some more. We need to check out the Eastern end for snorkeling as the water is moving too swiftly through the cut right now to snorkel here. While we were walking the beach, we met another group of Kuna. Jose, the kid from yesterday, was with them and greeted us like long lost friends. They asked if we wanted lobster or conch. We made vague protestations about the season being closed, but the lobster was already beyond the point where he could be set free and was also a very good size so we finally agreed. They said they would go get the conch and return to our ''yate'. (Somehow I never think of it as a 'yacht', it's not a Hinkley or a gold plater, it is our home, but to the rest of the world, especially third world people like the Kuna, it is definitely a 'yate'.) They showed up shortly after we returned with several conch and the lobster. We negotiated a bit (easier when they are not supposed to be selling it.) and ended up with three nice size conch and a ~2# lobster for $15. We are so ambivalent about the ban. We have decided that we will not take conch or lobster ourselves during the closed season, but this is their only livelihood. How can you just close it for 3 months? And from what we have seen, there does not appear to be much of an issue with the stock being depleted from over harvest. In some places they are taking small lobster, but lately all that we have seen have been nice big ones. I guess we will continue on a case by case basis. We now have quite a good supply of conch and lobster in the freezer so that makes it easier to say no. It's just when I see what they have (or don't have), I want to buy things from them.