Thursday, 24 March, 2011. Traveling Day. The morning dawned gray and overcast, wind still blowing ~15 kts. We had decided today was the day to sail to Provenir to clear out as we knew for sure the port captain would be in today and not certain about Friday. It was a perfect day to travel. The overcast would prevent it from being to hot on a down wind run (when the apparent wind – the wind you feel – is decreased by your boat speed and so it tends to feel hotter). We weighed anchor right after the net. Gris Gris asked if we could take a package to someone in Bocas and of course we agreed so we waited for them to run it over in the dinghy. Once under way we were sailing around 6 kts. - up to 7, down to 5 – with the wind @ 120* off the starboard. Nice easy sailing, behind the reef for most of the distance, but even when not, only ~3-5' waves on the stern quarter so still quite easy. Arrived in Porvenir @ 12:30, anchored, ate lunch, went in and got our Zarpe without difficulty, tried (unsuccessfully) to get fruit and veggies at Wichubhuala, returned to the boat, weighed anchor, and headed for Chichime. Arriving in Chichime, we found the usual spots all taken by the 8 boats already present. After cruising around the lagoon and not really seeing any good place to anchor, we were headed back out to try the back side of the island when I realized that right at the entrance there was a good spot of the smaller island (Uchutupu Pipigua). We turned in and anchored in sand with 12' of water falling back to about 25'. We were partly sheltered from the wind by the island which may or may not be good depending upon how strong it blows – we do want some wind for sleeping. Our anchoring spot still left plenty of room for others to enter the lagoon by going behind us so we were not obstructing anyone. We were, however, close enough to the tiny sand island with three palms that it was a reasonable swim over to it. The Cruising Guide said that snorkeling around it was fabulous, but looking from the boat, I couldn't imagine where. I swam over anyway and walked around then walked out to where the water dropped off on each side seeing nothing. Finally I decided that the good snorkeling must be on the inside of the breaking reef that extended out from the island towards the entrance. I put my fins back on and swam in that direction. I was right and so was the book. There was a fairly steep slope running from ~6' to 25' and it was covered with beautiful coral. Quite a few fish as well. Almost out to the point, I cam upon what appeared to be a fairly recent wreck. It was a 30+' sailboat that was lying on its side half way down the slope. The gunnel waan't 10' below the surface. Debris was scattered about for quite an area. He must have grounded on the reef and then slid down with subsequent weather. What an opportunity for a hookah. Unfortunately it was already 5:00 and too late to launch the hookah, but if we stay another day.....

Friday, 25 March, 2011. Just in Time (sort of). The weather forecast shows wind totally dying by tomorrow and so we made the decision to run for Portobelo today hoping to catch the last of the fading wind. If it fades to the E as predicted we might even get a several hour spinnaker run in. The wreck will have to wait for next year, the idea of motoring the whole 50+ miles is just too much. I was up by 6:00 starting coffee and we had anchor up and under way by 6:30. There was still 12-15 kts of wind from the NE and we started out @ 7 kts heading 280* in 3-5' seas, very nice. Wind was about 90* apparent and stayed that way most of the day. Unfortunately the wind did not hold @ 12-15, it died slowly. By noon we were down to 5 kts with less than 10 kts. of wind. Despite its fading, it refused to shift E. We tried the spinnaker, but couldn't keep it full, tried again without the main but same problem. The apparent wind was too far forward. Maybe if I had more experience with an asymmetrical spinnaker, I don't know. I tried every combination of tight and loose I could imagine and just couldn't keep the leading edge filled. Our speed was down to 3 kts. and we would never make Portobelo by dark. Choice: sail to Linton and go to Portobelo tomorrow or use the engine and make Portobelo today. We returned to full sail and then added the starboard engine. This combo put us back over 5 kts. and expected arrival before dark. Eventually as we turned the corner where Panama bends more S, we had to drop all sail and with the wind directly behind us, motored the remaining 8 nm. to Portobelo. As we were approaching the anchorage, we heard someone on the radio announce that the parade tomorrow would be @ 10:00 AM. Lots of people in exocitc costumes, street food, crafts, a real festival day. Sure glad we decided to make Portobelo today! By 4:45, we were comfily anchored and ready to relax. I have invented a new drink called a “Ginger Mojito.” It uses lime juice, simple syrup and rum just like a regular mojito, but instead of mint, it has ginger (like a Dark & Stormy). Really good. I think I will have one now!