Day 77, FISH!
02 June 2012 | Providencia, Columbia
Mark
Friday, June 1. This morning, Lorenzo & Joyce took us to the dive site they had gone to yesterday. They used tanks and we used the hookah. The site was about 1/3 of the way around Providencia island (as opposed to the much smaller Santa Catalina we had been diving around.) and then about ½ mile off shore. We eventually found the dive site marked by an orange fuel jug but it had a boat on it. Anchoring our dinghy in 20' seemed unlikely to succeed, but Lorenzo said he had plenty of chain and we could tie off to him (he had a hard dinghy that was more like a panga). As we got to the site, however, it was obvious that their dive was over and they were exiting the water. We just waited a few minutes and the the buoy to ourselves. We dropped about 20' on to a sand bottom. The reef ran out at an angle rising maybe 10' to its top which was covered by soft coral. The walls were mostly rubble with some live coral structures, but the FISH. It was amazing. Huge schools of fish that you could swim through the way you usually can little bait fish schools, except that these were schools of grunt, snapper, school master, chub and more. Usually the schools had one fish predominant with others mixed in. The fish numbered in the hundreds for each school! Swimming through them you would be surrounded, but none of them actually bumped you they separated for you and closed back behind. Many pairs of angle fish and one large Queen Angel. We saw several electric rays hiding on the bottom and several spotted moray eels in crevices of coral. It was really a spectacular dive. We followed the reef until Lorenzo was ½ through his tank and then worked our way back. Running out a ways from the ridge, I spotted a flounder on the bottom and irritated him to where he fluttered and turned bright blue around the edges. We saw a large scrolled file fish who allowed very close approach. There were many different grouper and none seemed as wary as grouper usually are. Lorenzo & Joyce were certainly right the site was really nothing much in terms of coral, but the inhabitants were unbelievable. By the time we got back, it was 1:30; three hours had elapsed and we were starving. After lunch we went in to town to see what fruits or veggies the boat may have brought. The selection was pretty sad. Maybe they won't get the new ones on the shelf until tomorrow. We did get a nice avocado, some limes and tomatoes, and a melon, all of which were good. At the bakery we got a loaf of integral bread that weighed nothing but was the best there was. We also got a baguette (also quite light) to go with the spaghetti Deb was making for supper and two dulce turnovers for breakfast. It was really hot in town and by the time we returned to the boat, we both needed to soak in the water to cool off. The water really doesn't even feel cool when you dive in, but if you stay in long enough you begin to equilibrate and cool off. We were going to go in for happy hour, but decided against it and just stayed on the boat. June is apparently the Columbian equivalent of Spring Break and lots of college age kids arrived yesterday and today. They had a tower of speakers set up in the plaza by the dinghy dock and had what was either a really poor live performer or a karaoke who had more enthusiasm than talent. About the time we were ready for supper, we also heard what sounded like the sound track of an old movie blasting from the general direction of Bamboo. We couldn't see any screen or lights to indicate a movie, but it was loud enough that it had to be coming from some type of PA system, not just a TV turned up loud. In an attempt to cover both that and the music from shore, I put on our Original Jazz Masters CD fairly loud. It was only moderately successful, but close enough. We enjoyed our dinner. Fortunately both forms of entertainment ended quite early and we were able to get to sleep without problems.