The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly (and the Beautiful).
09 March 2014 | Naranja Abajo, Panama
Mark
Sunday, 9 March. Almost as soon as we cleared the end of Escuda de Veraguas, there was enough wind to sail. Not a lot of wind - about 8 kts - but enough. We raised sails and shut down the motors. That was the Good - really nice easy sailing making about 50% of wind speed as the wind slowly rose from 8 to 12 kts while seas remained nearly flat with 3'-5' swells and virtually no wind waves. The Bad came during the night. First the wind fell while Deb was on watch until by the time she got me up, we were down to 4 kts. I fiddled with the sails and got us back to 5 kts, but then the wind started to build quickly. It jumped from 10 to 15 kts in a flash. I turned on the radar and, sure enough, we were headed right into the middle of a big rain squall about 3 nm in diameter. Since wind in a squall can be very unpredictable, I tucked a quick reef in the main and went to roll up some of the jib. Of course, it jammed. It has been doing this again lately. I thought I had it all fixed last summer, but not so. Deb was asleep, so I clipped myself into the life line and went up to the mast to try to free it. (The halyard wraps at the top of the sail and then it jams. Usually adjusting the tension on the halyard 'fixes' it, but I never know whether tightening or loosening is needed.) After several trips back and forth to the mast, I got the jib rolled up ~ 50%. Just in time as the rain hit. Real downpour, but without much in the way of wind. Oh well, at least I was ready. We sailed through the whole squall. It actually had an 'eye.' The rain stopped and the wind started to return to normal. It would have been tempting to raise the sails back up thinking that you were through, but I had radar and radar doesn't lie. The second half was much the same as the first, lots of rain but just unsettled wind, and on the other side, the wind died. Like nothing. So I dropped the main, started an engine, and went back to fighting with the job to get it furled 100%. Then, of course the wind came back, but now it was 20-25 kts. right on the nose. That was the Ugly. I managed to get a double reefed main raised so I could motor sail and we sort of crabbed our way against the building wind and seas. By now it was dawn and I had not been able to wake Deb to take watch as I had been so busy 'fixing' everything. And of course now we were approaching the Atlantic Anchorage for the Panama Canal and the AIS identified "82 dangerous targets" between us and our destination, still 20 nm away. No way could I leave Deb alone to deal with that, so I just stayed on watch and guided us through the anchorage filled with tankers and container ships as we motor sailed along in 20-25 kts of wind making ~3-4 kts with 20* of leeway. It was sort of exciting - aim for the ship's bow knowing that your true course through the water will take you behind his stern. Yea, it was definitely Ugly and I was very tired, but we finally arrived at Naranja Abajo, about which the guide book says, "The beautiful cove on the south end is protected from all angles." Indeed, it was Beautiful. We finally anchored in the lee of the island. The wind is still blowing, but the island blocks its fury and the water is totally flat. I collapsed into bed. Later this afternoon, we can go for a swim and then call Shelter Bay (we even have phone service here!) and arrange for our arrival tomorrow. We will take a slip for the night and then haul-out first thing Tuesday to begin work.