Hookah Holiday
13 June 2015 | Pugadup
Mark
Friday was a hookah holiday. We made a total of three dives on the reef that our boat is snuggled behind. The hookah ran perfectly and only sipped gas. We probably could have done all three dives on one tank. In the morning, I awakened to a lightening strike less than a mile away. Heavy rain. But then it cleared. The sun came out. While we were all waking up and getting started for the day, a native boat came through the cut in front of our boat and approached us. He had one huge (5# anyway) lobster, a reasonably large one (2#) and a tiny one (<1#). Originally he asked $30, but quickly settled for $20. Jana wanted crab, so he promised to go get us "dos grande congrejo" for $10. He would be back in an hour. Of course, he wasn't; so we went off diving, but when we came back, he was there waiting with two huge crab. He also had another very nice lobster, but Bryan said the $10 was all he had, so the guy took the lobster and left. We still have more than enough. The dive was fantastic. Giant coral heads rising 20' and more off a sandy bottom. Canyons of coral - hard and soft. There was one soft coral 'tree' that must have been 15' tall and 10' wide. Lots of the usual reef fish, but no angel fish and no pelagics. We did see two very large eagle rays swim right in front of us. The swim back in through the cut was a real challenge. Must have been 3+ kt current running against us. Even with four of us swimming, it was a struggle to pull the hookah (and a dive bag with several conch hanging down) against the current. After lunch we did it again, this time going out a different cut and exploring another section of reef. There was quite a surge and visibility wasn't great, but it was still a super dive. This reef featured 'fields' of button coral growing on old reef foundations. They undulated as they stretched for yards and yards. Also large and healthy elkhorn coral. Jana got some great underwater photos. Coming in was again a struggle (One would think the tide would have changed by now, but maybe it isn't tidal?? By the time we were back at the boat, we had recovered from our struggle and everyone was ready to go again. This time we went out the cut in front of the boat and turned right, headed toward the end of the island. This was shallower, averaging 15' instead of 30'. but still had lots of nice coral. For dinner, Bryan and I created a new recipe - ratatouille on the grill. Deb wanted the lobsters baked stuffed, Jana wanted the crab just boiled, but I insisted on a veggie as well. We had eggplant that wasn't getting any younger. Bryan asked about doing it in foil on the grill with tomatoes and onion (which we also have). Well, it lacked zucchini, but that sort of sounded like ratatouille to me, so I chopped everything up added lots of Herbs de Provence and wrapped it n foil. Half an hour later, the crabs were boiled, the lobster was baked and the veggies were done. An incredible feast to end a great day. And between the large body which I cooked and picked and a half of the large tail left over, we should have enough for lobster rolls tomorrow. Just as we were preparing to sit down to eat, I spotted a sailboat motoring along in the dark. I commented on how that is probably not so bad, but arriving ANYWHERE in the San Blas at night is foolish. To make things worse, it appeared he was headed directly toward us. It took us three tries and a couple hours to work inside the reef in mid day. No way anyone could make it inside at night. And outside the depths go from 50' to 3' in a boat length. How can you safely anchor in that? I grabbed the VHF and hailed him on both 72 (the local hailing frequency) and 16 (the universal hailing and distress freq.) No answer. We watched as he apparently anchored without incident. I hope he doesn't swing onto the reef with a wind change. Lord knows what he must have out for scope. He had one of those flashing anchor lights which is mildly obnoxious, but he was far enough away that it wasn't really an issue. As we were eating, we heard a LOW flying plane pass overhead. Looked, but never saw anything. No lights, nothing. It happened three times. Now there is an airstrip at Nargana which is not too far away, but it is not lighted or controlled and NO ONE would go in there at night. Deb was convinced that the two incidents were related and that it was a drug drop to the sailboat, but I suspect there is a less dramatic explanation. Saturday we will stay put, maybe go ashore and explore the island and do another dive on a different section of reef.