Cuba at last
28 May 2016 | Cayo Largo, Cuba
Mark
We arrived at the first red buoy marking the entrance to Cayo Largo at 9:00. Initially following waypoints from the Cuba Cruising Guide, we soon found red/green day marks showing the channel into the Marina. The Guardia de Frontera never answered our VHF calls ( we started @ 15nm out and called every 5nm ) but eventually the marina did answer and assured us that they had room for us and that we could do all clearing in formalities when we arrived. We motored in to the marina and took a berth along side the dock. There was initially some confusion as I thought he wanted us stern to like the charter cats, but he wanted us starboard to so there was a brief moment of scurrying about moving fenders and lines while I tried to station keep in a broadside breeze. Finally, I just backed up a bit and came back in, sliding up to the dock without difficulties. The operator of the marina welcomed us to Cuba and said that he had all the necessary officials coming to the boat. He took our passports to 'expedite' processing. I asked about whether it would be a problem that our zarpe said Cienfuegos and we were arriving in Cayo Largo. He said, "Yes, big problem. People in Cienfuegos will be very unhappy that you did not go there to clear in, but WE will be very happy you are here! So not to worry." First to arrive was the health officer, a doctor. He asked about any illnesses and took everyone's temperature and pronounced us fit. Next came the agriculture and veterinary officers. We chatted with the vet about Shary being a vet too and everyone was very friendly. His English was a bit better than my Spanish so we mostly used English. He explained how all meat and animal products (like eggs) were to be sealed and kept that way until we left as a quarantine. He agreed, however, that this would leave us with noting to eat and so did not seal any of the frozen food. The agricultural inspector was equally understanding. He took two apples with bad spots and some outer leaves of cabbage as well as one can of mushrooms that had rusted pretty badly. The rest he told us to eat now or seal up and put in the international dumpster at the end of the dock. As they left, they told us to take down the Q flag. We are officially in Cuba! Next came the Coast Guard officer with the marina host who had our passports with tourist cards (they do not stamp US passports but provide a visa card to to keep in the passport until we leave). They had multiple forms to fill out in triplicate, but were very helpful and polite. (Deb offered te frio or agua to each group along with cookies - which they enjoyed.) Visas are up to $75 per person (were $25 earlier this year) and $55 for the boat (prices in CUC which is 1:1 to USD except that they charge a 25% surcharge for USD.) Agriculture & veterinary inspection was $25 USD. The marina is $0.80 CUC/ft/day. After we finished with all the officials, we all enjoyed a champagne toast to our safe arrival in Cuba. Will and I went to the bank and exchanged Euros for CUC. The exchange was only $1.067: 1 which is pretty low. I'll have to figure out if we came out ahead changing USD to Euros in US so we could avoid the 25% surcharge. Seems like it may be close. We had lunch at the local bar/hang out which is mainly aimed at employees and Cubans. Three dinners (2 chicken, 1 pork) and 8 beers was $CUC 17.00. The souvenir shop seemed equally reasonable which is surprising as it is such a resort island. This afternoon we are using the free water to clean the boat and do laundry. A Cuban from one of the fishing boats docked near us sold me a large Miro (snapper) for $10.00CUC. Probably not a super price, but not unfair either. It will easily feed 4 of us (except Deb won't eat it). Tomorrow we start our cruise of the S coast of Cuba, eventually ending in Trinidad where we will leave the boat and travel inland.