The restaurant where Sandy had made reservations for Sat. night was quite a place. Jam packed and noisy. Everyone having a good time. We decided to share 4 different apps for sort of a tapas dinner. All of the dishes were great and the drinks were phenomenal. It might not have been the best mojito I have had, but it was certainly the largest - served in a qt. mason jar. Good choice Sandy! After the meal Will & Sandy went back to the casa, but Deb & I wandered in search of music. We didn't have to go far. There were several street corners with musicians we could have just stopped to listen - and did for a short while - but we ended up at Cafe Paris. A 20-30 yo black women who looked vaguely like Roberta Flack in the 60's was singing "Killing Me Softly" is Spanish with a Latin rhythm backup. It was better than it sounds. She was followed by a flutist who was fantastic. His melody soared and flitted, wound around the rhythm in all kinds of ways. We took a table outside the actual cafe, but the sound poured out through the large open windows just fine. We stayed for two mojitos and bought the CD. Sunday was quieter in Havana Viejo. As usual, we started out together but eventually went our separate ways to meet again back at the casa for drinks on the roof top. While we were together, we walked down to the Havana Club "Museum of Rum." As we were approaching the building, a local Cuban came up and introduced himself and asked where we were from (a common occurrence). He was very vocal about his feelings about Cuba. "No crime here. Three million living in Cuba - two million police, one million people - no crime." And then about Castro & Raul. "Come, see the rum THEY drink. $1000cuc per bottle." And indeed he showed us a bottle in the 'museum' for such a price labeled "the Rum Castro drinks." We did not buy any. Before leaving us to enjoy the museum, he insisted that before we left we should have a mojito in the attached bar, "Best mojito in Cuba (we've heard that a lot).Much better than the one at Dos Hermanos (next door where Hemingway used to drink) They are overpriced and not as good." We assured him we would try them and he left. He wasn't hustling anything, just a friendly Cuban who wanted to talk to his new American friends. The museum was really nothing. A hand crank cane grinder, some pictures of stills and history on plaques (in Spanish) and the gift shop selling various rums and cigars. Sandy wanted a serving tray, but they didn't have anything like that. I'm sure she can get one in a local store along the street. We did go in to the bar and enjoyed a mojito while listening to a very good trio - rhythm, guitar, and lute (sort of a 12 string mandolin with 6 doublet sets of strings which is not tuned like a guitar, but is entirely different.) Man could he play that thing. We bought the CD (beginning to sound familiar? It strikes me as a better way of supporting local musicians - they get more than I would have given them for a tip and we get to take home some of their music.) After the bar, Will & Sandy went their way and Deb & I found the local ferry ($1.00cuc per person) that crossed the harbor to Casablanca. I had hoped to get a taxi or bus up to the large statue of Christ that overlooks Havana (second in size only to the one in Rio de Janero) and then the fort, but No, the only way up is by foot and it was too much for that time of day (~noon and hot) so we just took the next ferry back. At least we got to ride a boat across Havana harbor. After that we went and found an outdoor cafe that had Cubano sandwiches and musicians playing. They were OK, but the trumpet was not in tune with the accordion. I think they knew it (so why not tune up?) as the two rarely played at the same time so it came out OK. They did not have a CD for sale and I don't think we would have bought it anyway. The sandwich was OK and the beer was cold. Refreshed, we went to see the old fort that guarded the entrance to Havana harbor. It was not as well restored as Morro, but was interesting with great views. Then we wandered some more, stopping in Cathedral square - great old buildings. I tried to get money at the local bank (yes, the banks are open 7 days a week.) They would not touch my Panamanian debit card, but were going to accept my Panama credit card (Visa) but would not accept my wallet version of my passport so I'll need to bring my real passport and go back tomorrow. After a rest in our room (with A/C) and a drink on the roof top with Sandy & Will, Deb & I went to La Paella for dinner. I was initially disappointed when their menu said paella was prepared only for 2 or more people (Deb doesn't like it) but the waiter said," No problem. We can make it just for you." The seating was in a beautiful courtyard with vines hanging down two stories. Behind the bar was a TV playing CNN. We were ignoring it, but the waiter came up and asked us to translate the captions for him. Apparently there had been a mass shooting in Orlando and he did not know the word 'shooter'. We watched the news briefly, interpreting as best as my Spanish could do, but thankfully another lute trio came out and began playing, lifting us out the the CNN madness and back to Havana Viejo. They were as good as the trio in the morning, and Yes, I bought their CD. After a couple of numbers, he asked where the diners were from. The guy closest to us was from Gabon, the other couple, France, and us from US, of course. Hearing the Estados Unidos, he immediately jumped into a rendition of Frank Sinatra's "New York, New York" shifting back and forth from Spanish to English. It was quite the performance, but his original Spanish stuff was better. They did some Buena Vista Social club numbers and at my request, some Benny More'. The paella was great and Deb's chicken with sweet potato and veggies was very good as well. After dinner we wandered some more and ended up back at Paris Cafe where the same group was playing. Deb had a mojito and I, 7yo rum while we shared a cigar (outside seating). It was a great evening.