Gummy sharks and other tales

Thank goodness for weather forecasting, and must remember not to take breakwater walls in harbours for granted. There is not one here in Sarande, and it’s rolly, with limited options. (Being none!)

Knowing that a strong northerly was going to arrive in two days, on Monday we left our equally rolly anchorage at Maria de Leuca, outside the calm marina, for a very pleasant flat 48nm sail, without motor for most of the way, to the small Greek island of Nisos Orthonoi.

Dropped anchor in a protected bay on the north of the island, and had a good night’s sleep. Put the clock forward one hour.

Had a slow start to Tuesday but when we did get going Brett decided to hoist the mainsail while at anchor, and once sail up and anchor in, off we whizzed towards Albania. Once again the wind was in the right direction so we were engine free. It seems we’ve had more sailing in the last week than all of last year, where we mainly motor sailed. Does make for a cheap passage from Italy to Albania. And relaxing. It was a beam reach so flat. I still don’t like the tippy stuff. Rolly I can handle.

Arrived in Albania five hours later, a bit earlier than expected as Albania is on Italian time, not Greek. Newly-put-forward clocks went back an hour. An agent, who you need, Agim was at the wharf to meet us as per email, and he helped with ropes before taking our passports and boat papers to be stamped. As part of the €50 fee, he handed over an Albanian courtesy flag—boats always have to fly the flag of the country they are in.

The fee included the first night alongside the wharf, thereafter it’s €10 per night, including electricity and water. Excellent value IF the wind and swell is coming from the right direction. But more of that later.

An English couple arrived shortlywards, on a yacht called ‘Harbinger of Hamble’. Agim suggested we share a taxi for the following day to see the sites: Blue Eye (Syri I kalter); Butrinti and Gjirokastar. Which we duly did and had a fabulous day. The countryside looks fertile and green, with it’s valleys and hills. Very pretty and old. The history is fascinating and, oddly enough, so is the newness of it all. So much has only recently been discovered and acknowledged.

Albania is just opening up to tourism and one of the many things that’s holding them back is their roads, or lack of. As for the goats and their goat herders, love it. Although not sure about Brett’s choice of lunch. Actually, I am sure, as were our Pommie partners for the day—Brett’s choice being an entire roasted sheep’s head. Teeth and all, yummo. The only thing we all agreed on is that it made for a good photo opportunity. (See pic.) Fortunately for me my pasta dish was a large one as I didn’t get to eat it all, for some reason.

After leaving the green rolling countryside, we returned to Amble (and Hamble) to feel a little green when seeing all of the rolling the boats were doing. The northerly had reached 40 knots with a swell of over three metres. Although calmer in our bay, there were still white caps and surges of water. The boats were being knocked around and, bother, we were at yet another stony wall, which made for an anxious time. Amble had been gouged on her starboard side by, of all things, our steel spring. That we belatedly took off. Better to lurch than be dented. Although it seemed she was in for dislocation of her cleats. Ouch.

As conditions were only going to worsen, Agim gave us permission to anchor in the harbour. Uncomfortable it might be, but there is nothing to hit. I hope! (Not a helicopter in sight.) We’ll probably stay here a day or two until things settle down. We know the anchor is holding so, while not overly still, Amble is safe.

By the way, the currency here is ‘lek’. About 95 leks to the dollar; 140 to the euro. Lots of noughts in prices which hurts my brain, but it does make it more exotic to have different money. Also a totally different language and . . . wonderful. Except I’m still struggling to say ‘hello’, even when written down: pershendetje. As for goodbye, argghhhh, goodbye.

Time to wobble onto land by dinghy to explore.