OXFORD/ST. MICHAELS: (Cloud Cover 3) We have big plans to explore these two towns on Maryland's fabled Eastern Shore, favorites of the DC weekend warriors and often considered the Chesapeake's best two spots. I have done my research and printed out a cue sheet for "The Classic Maryland Eastern Shore Ride" - a 24 mile loop between these two historic towns over flat, scenic country roads - my Backroads Eastern Shore knock-off. The loop even includes a novel transfer over the Tred Avon River on the "Nation's Oldest Privately Operated Ferry Service" which originated in 1683 and has run continuously since 1836......But, oh no, we wake to a steady rain (D3,4). It is now the 9th day of gloom (D1,5).

Miraculously however the weather gods must have had mercy on our soggy souls, because about 2 hours later, the drops are reduced to mere spittle (D3,2) and we optimistically pack up the bikes, don our rain jackets and beeline for the ferry. Delivered to the Bellevue side, the rain ceases for good and we happily cycle up to St. Michaels, taking in its mid-1600's colonial charm as we also gratefully take in the slightly drier air. Lunch is of course Maryland blue crabs - mine spicy and steamed, his pan-fried cakes, both washed down with a cold and foamy Stella draft.

On our return trip the beers and full bellies slow us down a bit, but apparently not enough for Oxford. We chuckle that we visited Oxford on a Tuesday but found it closed - restaurants and shops were literally shuttered and the streets were so quiet and abandoned we felt compelled to whisper so as not to disturb the stillness. Maybe the summer scene is livelier in this super quaint town known for its picket fences, but mid-week in late September nothing much is up. It is however a darling little (very little) town and one of Maryland's oldest, dating back to 1683. Like Cape May, Oxford is also on the National Registry of Historical Places. Curiously, it too has its own upcoming festival on the very same weekend as its Jersey cousin's Lima Bean affair. Here it will be the Picket Fence Auction (oh, if I could be in two places at once)! Do cloudy (D1,1) skies encourage sarcasm?

The cloud cover FINALLY parted for good this afternoon - after 10 consecutive dreary (D1,4) days. We have stopped in Reedville, VA, a still active, authentic fishing port built on the menhaden fishing industry (producing annually 100,000 metric tons of the inedible fish). It is authentic right down to the characteristic odor from the fishery in our southerly breeze. But sun trumps smell, so we anchor quickly and put off everything in favor of sitting on the foredeck and soaking up these elusive rays mesmerized by the glimmer of the setting sun. Reedville is by no stretch a picturesque tourist town, but in this best possible light - viewed through our happily squinting eyes and our new sunny dispositions - we, more certain than ever of the Vitamin D-Mood connection, find it down right pretty.

Ah, that this fair weather persists long enough such that we may develop an equally extensive library of distinctions for clear, sun-drenched skies.