Photo: Spear throwing competition at the annual HEIVA
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Anchored long enough in one spot, even boats can grow "roots": superfine, tenacious grassy growth that clings to the hull bottoms. With us back again in Tahiti for our second visit (this time for our rendezvous with Eric's buddy, Robert) and marking our record 20th day spent anchored off Marina Taina, both Andiamo and I are starting to sprout some shoots. While we have certainly spent three weeks duration exploring within island chains moving from port to port, to spend such a substantial hunk of time in a single anchorage is a cruising rarity and is usually associated with unfavorable weather or unwelcomed repairs. We, on the other hand, are not only experiencing a lull in boat repairs (knock wood....even the washer-dryer is repaired!) but have also been graced with spectacular tropical winter weather: clear warm days and markedly cooler, dry pleasant nights. So in this sweet spot while awaiting Robert's arrival with good boat karma, cooperative weather and paradise beckoning, I am more than happy to be temporarily rooted.

In fact, whoever said "familiarity breeds contempt"? As it relates to cruising, for me familiarity breeds content! After the upfront stressful investment required to orient ourselves here on the first pass, this second sojourn to Tahiti has been a delight. Now I know precisely how much change to have ready for the bus and where to meet it. I know the layout of downtown Papeete well enough to keep the map in my pocket. I not only know exactly where the giant Carrefour supermarket is, but I can now prepare my shopping list by aisles. I know just what to order at the marina's Happy Hour and I know that the Pizza Reine is our favorite. I know that as the sun begins to set down over magnificent Moorea in the distance that dozens of colorful outrigger canoes will appear, rhythmically zigzagging between the boats in the harbor as they pump through their rigorous pre-dusk workout. And, while I am no fan, I nonetheless know the sounds of the persistently barking dogs and the incessantly crowing roosters as well as the pungent waft of the ever-burning fires ashore. But the very best thing I now know is MORE CRUISERS! Familiarity has indeed bred content..... and company and companionship. The marina makes it easy to mix and, as we increasingly spend time with the same group of yachties and they in turn introduce us to others, it has provided a satisfying sense of community; at least a partial antidote for the feeling I most sorely miss from home. These budding roots are not yet very deep but even these fine threads have created a shift in my experience and enjoyment here. On our little boat, if two is company and three's a crowd, four plus makes a party and I am all IN!

Coincidentally and conveniently, as we are temporarily rooted here taking in Tahiti with a handful of new friends, Tahitians are also in full-blown celebration and commemoration of their own roots during their annual Heiva. This month long cultural fête observed throughout all of French Polynesia, consists of festivities and competitions in traditional Polynesian dance, song and sport. The dancing is mesmerizing - nothing like that manufactured, mellowed-out Disney World luau version. Accompanied by thunderous tribal music, dozens of pulsating young male and female sweat-glistened dancers in primitive and traditional costumes, provided us with hours of free, high energy entertainment. At a different outdoor venue, we curiously watched as teams representing islands throughout this vast region competed in their age-old traditional sporting events. Miss Tahiti sat in the wings waiting to congratulate the winners while we all were treated to close-up views of participants in native attire competing in a variety of customary events: coconut tree climbing, spear throwing, coconut splitting and stone lifting. Eric - a former weight-lifter - was understandably impressed by the strongmen's ability to lift a smooth 365 lb boulder and perch it on one shoulder, holding on with only one hand. David - a former surgeon - thought the precision involved in landing a spear into a single coconut suspended on a pole 12 feet in the air required quite a bit of skill (if not luck). I - a former housewife?? - found the long-haired, extensively-tattooed sinewy Marquesan in the loin cloth who climbed - more like leaped - the coconut palm in 6 seconds my hands-down favorite (even if the skinny guy from the Austral Islands beat him with his astounding 4 second time). Infer what you will.

Rooted here with the marina area filled with hundreds of boats, Eric too has met an international group of young friends; largely surfers sailing around in search of epic Polynesian waves. Most days he surfs right here at Taapuna, the reef break just off the pass where we are anchored, but he has also ventured to Papara with a carload of friends. He too seems to be thriving on the easy rhythm and familiarity we have collectively settled into in this place. And now that Robert finally arrived two days ago, we all have had the double pleasure of introducing him to what we now find familiar and even routine, while once again viewing this exotic world through his fresh and enthusiastic eyes.

Before shoving off to new and exciting (but unfamiliar) places, on our final day here in Tahiti, we rented a car, dropped the boys off to surf Papara and David and I toured this legendary island, taking in the sights, sounds and smells one last time. As we headed in the direction away from busy Papeete, we saw a Tahiti truer to its past and more closely resembling our other Polynesian landfalls but on a much grander scale, as Tahiti is the largest of the Society Islands and boasts its highest peak (Orohena at a spectacular 7340 feet). Driving the lovely coastal rim road we passed rich, verdant jagged valleys, impressive in both their depth and size. When we reached the narrow isthmus that connects Tahiti Nui ('big")and Tahiti Iti ("small"), our search for a hilltop vantage was unfortunately thwarted due to the deplorable road. But no worries. Enjoying the novel freedom of joy-riding in a car, we took a brief peek at Gauguin's now dilapidated, expansive waterfront home grounds, but skipped the museum having previously toured the one in Hiva Oa. We also happened upon a peaceful park unassumingly tucked away roadside that included walking trails to four waterfalls along with placards describing the spiritual significance of this place - such a typically, low-keyed Polynesian way of honoring and preserving their past. Finally, interweaving practicality with paradise, we retrieved our surfing duo and concluded our extended stay in Tahiti by capitalized on the extraordinary benefits of both the rented car and their 25-year-old-muscle and made that last massive provisioning run to Carrefour... in record time no less, given that I now know the aisles by heart. This morning we shoved off for Moorea and points west, with those tender, grassy Tahitian "roots" now quite stuck on Andiamo's bottom, as if to provide evidence of our long and enjoyable stay in this island that has - understandably - lured sailors since the days of Captain Cook.

P.S. - As for those most important roots back home: When I last wrote I spoke of my homesickness after Katie and Ben's visit. With David's understanding and blessing, I have decided to take an expensive and long flight from Fiji back home for a few weeks of boat break in late October before rejoining the guys in New Zealand. As soon as I booked the flights, my mood shifted as I could once again wrap my head around seeing family and friends in just three months instead of what was feeling like an interminably long six. While I am happy to be finally growing some roots here among the cruising community, it remains home-grown familiarity that breeds true content.

I hope to see many of you in October.......I know you are "rooting" for me.....

.....yeah, yeah. I know that is stretching the pun a bit too far. :))