May 18

It's not far, but you can't get there from here, almost. Hatiheu village, with an uncomfortably rolly bay, is across a ridge, an hour and some of steep climbing each way, from this lovely, smooth anchorage. Lunch at an outdoor eatery there was a reasonably priced Marquesan specialty, chow mein... OK, the price wasn't that reasonable, either, but it was quite good and provided the energy to climb back home. Not wanting to return empty handed, bought large grapefruit instead of sought after (and lighter), unavailable-until-tomorrow, bread and lettuce.

Was so revved up after jaunt, cleaned boat's topsides. No wait, that's not right, actually collapsed into a pile of quivering protoplasm for two hours. Then, driven by guilt, did that other thing. Boat had begun to look like a garbage scow with rust and drainage stains streaking her hull. She has now returned to her former sleek, pristine beauty. Close enough. Tomorrow may see cleaning of aft deck where gas, oil and fish guts have wreaked havoc and/or foredeck where rusty, befouled chain has merely played at it.

Snorkeling heads agenda le matin for the best early light with a relatively easy trek across to bay east l'apres-midi after breaking lunch, or, possibly, for it.

"Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and it may be necessary from time to time to give a stupid or misinformed beholder a black eye." - Miss Piggy

Jack