May 19

Although visibility is not the best, snorkeling here is amazing. Never seen such densely packed coral. Comes up six to ten feet off the bottom right under the keel. Spooky. Only occasionally is the underlying sand visible. Retrieving the CQR (it's the anchor, Cal, a play on word 'secure') could be a real challenge. There are also a plethora of winsome fish, turtles and rays. Jacksters saw a manta by Matoohotu Point after my pass. Have scheduled a reappearance for photo tomorrow morning although they are not very reliable. Brown cow-nose rays are the only ones even remotely conscientious about keeping appointments. Probably a sociological problem.

Next bay east is redolent of coastal South Carolina, especially the smell. Lots of sand, surf and even the short grass and crawling vines bring back memories of ill spent youthful summers around Myrtle Beach. Any reminiscence is quickly shattered, of course, by a quick look around at the volcanic skyline that accompanies an even more entertaining present.

Cleaned the boot stripe and prop, so the old girl runs well and looks good from a distance. Try not to let anyone aboard until after dark. Cockpit's OK, but poop deck still looks a bit shaggy awaiting future effort. Speaking of travail, this is the South Pacific (as far as you know) for crying out loud, so when do the feckless days of depraved indolence begin? Would use Paul Gauguin as my exemplar, but don't have a penchant for thirteen year old girls and can't paint.

Jack