May 24

Beat up to the NE corner of Nuku Hiva, then had wind to reach around the coast to Baie Controleur. Anchored in Hanga Haa Bay at the foot of Taipivai (Typee Valley) which is lovely. Dinghy ride up river to the village at high slack water was uneventful. Return on outgoing against the breeze was a sleigh ride.

Original settlers lived in the hills, so enjoyed a fair hike up to place where Melville was afraid he would be sacrificed or eaten. Looks like a set from "Apocalypto". (Marquesans, contrary to Tahitians who ate the naughty parts, were considered more civilized because they ate only thigh meat). Hope to download his novel to Kindle with internet tomorrow in Taiohae.

Had drinks on Anthem with English couple from "Elysion" (Steve was an easy sell as his beer supply had run out) and an Italian fellow on "Nausicaa" who, besides his native tongue, speaks Spanish, French, Portugese and a pretty passable English. Marcello, a single-hander, was decrying his country's laws and education. Huh! Glad the rest of us have perfect systems. Brits also speak a little English, so that with minimum hand gestures we were able to communicate.

Looking forward to a modicum of civilization in the big town (about 1800 residents) for a few, then, after a day in Daniel's Bay just west, off to nothing like it atoll.

Jack