Sunday 4 September 2016

Made it into Manado town yesterday to find an American mall populated by Southeast Asians. Without the fact that we were the only pasty-faced people in the place you wouldn't know. Stopped for a latte and free wifi at the Coffee Bean, shopped for groceries at a supermarket that advertises pork and had all the other stuff discriminating Euro-types want, then ate dinner with wine at an excellent bar and restaurant nearby. Costs are where we noticed a difference.

Following an hour and a half motor across, hooked onto big yellow buoy in front of not-officially-open-yet, way posh and very expensive Bunaken Oasis Dive Resort. The mooring is rigged with maybe 38mm (1/1/2") 3-strand at around 165 meters - below a depth that allows monitoring or repair without pulling the whole 450 Kg shebang up. Owners will probably just wait until it fails in a few years (if they're lucky) and replace. Will use it for their large catamaran which is currently in Manado being re-engineered for somewhere around half a billion rupiah because it was a crappy (highly technical marine architectural term) design. No other buoy or anchorages are usable. The owner kindly let us remain, but one night only. The island is shaped like a very tall tuna can with top edge often overhung, dropping vertically into seemingly infinite, black depths below the very shallow coral fringe. Made 3 dives which were excellent, but with current everywhere. Serious wall diving, caves, canyons and lots of fish, turtles, etc. Healthy coral. Mostly excellent vis.

Tuesday

After outrageously expensive meal at Oasis with resort general manager and his one guest involving way too much wine until wee hours followed by early morning and 3 hung-over dives Monday then immediate departure for first of 2 overnight sails to Morotai that afternoon (deep breath) we are recovering on passage. While rounding cape after dark at north end of Sulawesi conditions got a little frisky for awhile, but otherwise beautiful wind just aft the beam and east current all night and morning. GRIBs (Generally Reprehensible and Inaccurate Bullflop) and pilot charts indicate continuation until destination. Now almost halfway, just entering so far empty charted shipping lanes, attempting to stay alert and trying not to arrive into reef-strewn Morotai before daylight tomorrow. A nap sounds good.

Jack