June 3

Crew earned his keep today, completing all tasks with efficiency and aplomb (not a pre-desiccation prune).

After listening to weather and Coconut Telegraph, dinked into town to find local gendarme who handles customs duties. My end of the entire conversation with him was, "Bon jour, parlez vous Anglais?, oui, pardon, oui, oui, merci". So far, the French have been the easiest check-ins and Americans have been the biggest pricks.

Next, carried aromatic fabric items to laundry lady at Yacht Club des Saintes to be washed, but not dried, by 1600. She wanted to charge 30 Euro for admittedly large sack-o-clothes, but eventually settled for still outrageous 20. Boat currently resembles a low-end thrift shop.

Returned to gendarmerie for clearance papers (in and out) faxed back from Guadeloupe. No charge. Celebrated with cafe au lait, jus d'orange and pastry chocolat (no oeufs) for petite dejeuner after finally finding ATM. They speak only le Francais and take only euro. Le Bourg is very, pardon me for saying so, Sue, quaint.

After breakfast, climbed 300 some feet to Fort Napoleon (named after that short guy who had the little dust-up around the turn of the 18th century with British Admiral Nelson, who died kicking his derriere at Trafalgar) to discover three things: a beautifully maintained fort, an incredible view of the harbor and, after four and a half months on a boat, appalling endurance. Also got a hint why French fare so poorly in armed conflict. Their rifle positions for firing through thick fort walls are constructed backward. A small slit is on the outside with open angled field of fire facing inward. Somebody should have told them.

Second attempt at fixing fresh fish was significant leap forward with help from distaff member of Inspiration Lady crew. This possibly due to improved cleaning technique and species more amenable to fine dining.

Jack