15 August 2014 | En Route Raiatea
13 August 2014 | Fare, Huahine
07 August 2014 | Papeete, Tahiti
28 July 2014 | En Route to Papeete, Tahiti
27 July 2014 | Tikehau, Tuamotus
23 July 2014 | Rangiroa, Tuamotus
20 July 2014 | Rangiroa, Tuamotus
17 July 2014 | Ahe, Tuamotus
16 July 2014 | Ahe, Tuamotus
12 July 2014 | Toua, Tuamotus
10 July 2014 | North Fakarava, Tuamotus
07 July 2014 | North Fakarava, Tuamotus
06 July 2014 | South Fakarava, Tuamotus
04 July 2014 | South Fakarava, Tuamotus
03 July 2014 | South Fakarava, Tuamotus
01 July 2014 | South Fakarava, Tuamotus
29 June 2014 | Tahanea, Tuamotus
28 June 2014 | Tahanea, Tuamotus
28 June 2014 | Makemo Northwest, Tuamotus
Oh Mother!
15 March 2024 | Lagoon Marina, Cole Bay
Saturday 9 March 2024
Generator done at 1700, but bad hose connection required new part and too late, so guys back this morning. Fingers and any other body parts that can be crossed will be placed in position for attempt. ...you've got to ask yourself one question: 'Do I feel lucky?' Well, do you, punk?
- Later
Contrary to any reasonable expectation, Panda is performing beautifully. She starts; she runs; she makes electricity; she crawls on her belly like a reptile.... Oh wait, that was Little Egypt by the Coasters. Raise your hand if you remember that one you old fart Exhaust manifold is corroded and will probably need replacement within next several months, so that will likely get one in US.
Only two more items to complete sojourn in St Maarten: motherboard for new AC (promised for last two weeks and again for Monday), pole mount for Starlink (sequestered in customs last few days). Have spot in marina until Friday, then on the hook until departure. Another hold is mates here and en route this week, so want to get hung over with them before leaving. Will see most in Virgins, Bahamas and points north, but hate to waste any opportunity to support local pubs and grubs.
Sunday
Next and ongoing project is cleaning up deck hatches for new, self-adhering, super reliable (he said with great aplomb) gaskets. Old sealer did not stick to old gasket, but but made limpets look like pikers sticking to fiberglass and paint. No chemicals, all mechanical removal. Takes hours per hatch while attempting to not destroy paint.
Monday
Having eschewed advice to avoid postal system, am now properly scolded. Took two weeks for Starlink part to arrive, cost no less than courier and was not delivered, so spent all morning taking busses to Philipsburg to retrieve the thing.
Tuesday
New no fooling, absolutely positive time for AC motherboard arrival now Thursday. After weeks of promises, confidence has become a bit wobbly. Since Starlink mount is in hand this is last hold on departure. That is, except for mates slowly coming in from southern islands. Getting together tonight with twelve of them, missing only the Aussie Anthems who are hiking Montserrat. All or most of us sailing to Canada of the cold, cruel north, except for a few days when it's brutally hot and humid... with black flies and mosquitos as large as the flying monkeys from Wizard of Oz.
Friday
Motherboard finally arrived and... it doesn't work any better than first. Crikey! Voltage at board good, but low at relay. Wire previously checked good so, WHAT UP? Where do dah voltage go? Best guess is gremlins are stealing it. Does mosquito spray work on them? Speaking of which, island is currently awash in dengue fever. Yowzer! Time to leave.
Guys (reinforcements brought in) think they may have found problem. The wire. I reiterate, WHAT UP? They're off to find new to fish through.
- Later
New wire did not fix. Finally replaced relay and that apparently did the trick. Anyway it's all operational at this moment - afternoon. Running AC to check continuous operation, not because it feels good... you believe me don't you? Able to stay on dock one more night due vacancy. Doing so for therapeutic reasons.
Jack & Jan
Aground And Aground
08 March 2024 | Lagoon Marina, Cole Bay
Sunday 3 March 2024
After discovering that hole drilled for thru-hull was too close against inside bulkhead to allow wide plastic valve to screw on, screwed skin fitting onto valve, then sealed fitting to hull. Will never be able to remove without hacking out skin fitting or cutting into beam. Let's hope it doesn't leak.
Also managed to remove old rudder shaft packing and replace while kneeling into bilge on new knee. Won't do that again.
Monday
Finished plumbing new thru-hull and replacing old T with straight through hose. Greased prop. Guys finished priming and anti-fouling new fiberglass where where water was leaking into rudder. Lifted, painted under pads & bottom of keel and splashed 1430. A little excitement hearing water flowing into bilge. New thru-hull!!!? No. Hidden hose pulled off smooth bore manual bilge pump connection due broken clamp and strenuous effort to remove old hose from old thru-hull. Fast fix. Still afloat. Bob's your uncle.
Spending night in Travel Lift slip awaiting dinghy splash in the morning prior to going back to Dutch side through 1000 causeway bridge opening. Good to be back in own bunk.
Tuesday
Going Dutch, but not at 1000. Could not find our way through shoals although followed three tracks from last week. Hard aground for awhile, missed bridge and removed expensive new anti-fouling from bottom of keel and rudder.
Friday
Had great time with Ocean Cruising Club gang Wednesday night to celebrate seventieth anniversary (not me, the club, I'm way older than that), met Aussie mates for dinner Thursday and otherwise performed beached whale impressions while recovering from yard.
Relaxation is over, however, as generator is being reinstalled. Tested perfect yesterday, we've been told, so confidence is running amok. Craned onto boat with spare halyard this morning. Will move into position after lunch. This will be quite the operation. Two donkeys and a midget being located to help.
Jan took shopping bus to Philipsburg, returning with several bags of fresh and frozen groceries just as Panda was dropping through companionway. Timing is our specialty. Now all must be stored before guys (donkeys and midget) get back.
If generator in by five, prognosticate happy hour rum punches at Lagoonies. More than one.
Jack & Jan
Maintenance Merriment
29 February 2024 | JMC Shipyard, St Martin
Sunday 25 February 2024
Bottom and prop were clean in Grenada. Forgetting St Maarten lagoon is barnacle heaven and that boat has been here, unmoving almost two months, left dock for 1000 causeway bridge opening, staging for haul tomorrow morning. Could barely get RPM above idle with minimal steerage. Didn't make bridge. Anchored nearby and dove (in disgusting water) to clean amazing amount of growth from prop. All good now. Will go 1530.
Monday
Arriving at JMC Shipyard 0900 discovered that a fire had caused used oil dump all along the shore. Tried Little Bobby's across the way - Travel Lift out of service. Back across to Time Out Boat Yard - manager gone until afternoon and crane may not be big enough. Screwed around until 1400, but then OKed for 0900 Wednesday. Spent night anchored on French side.
Tuesday
Ostensibly a day of rest, but authorities demanded we clear in French side before moving boat here. Not cleared out with Dutch. Forgot to replace Dutch flag with French. Probably would have saved the hassle. Supervisor came back and threatened us with fine, so moved over to Dutch water. Went to Dutch immigration, cleared out and will clear in to French side tomorrow. Will have to do reverse process when back in water Monday. PIA. Same lagoon. One may dinghy back and forth without limit. The French and Dutch on same island don�'t cooperate as well as you�'d think. Oh well, we're legal. Scofflaws hate being legal. Irony is that this saves us a little money as French charge lower harbor fees.
Wednesday
Arrived on time, hooked up to crane and discovered that we are indeed too heavy. Thirteen and a half ton design, figured maybe sixteen, eighteen crane limit, actually almost twenty. Yowzer! Checked with JMC and they got cleaned so went back there. Everyone at lunch until 1400. Went in and nearly crashed boat with heavy cross wind, finally lifted, cleaned bottom and rode bikes to hotel. Jan felt near death. Rest of crew pretty sure past that. Walked a kilometer to Sky Bar (would have been our fourth of that name) and it was not where Google promised. Finally found a shawarma place that didn't serve wine... France? May thus locate different place tomorrow, although excellent lamb dinner. Afterward stopped by supermarket to correct drought. In bed by 1900. May sleep in.
Thursday
Finally got moving after 0900. Yowzer! Anyway back at yard pretending to do something useful. Paid guys doing great work - they're young. Although fantasizing doing more, only critical item before splash is replacing rudder packing. Will finish that, he declares confidently, after going to pick up anti-fouling paint following local lunch hour(s) around 1400. Also have deck hatch gaskets to replace with high cost material brought from Florida following arduous removal of old adhesive that sticks to deck like a limpet, but not to gasket and fixing screw hole leaks (not from frame, he hopes) with more sealer. The fun festers.
Jack & Jan
Erratic Advancement
24 February 2024 | Cole Bay, Sint Maarten
Thursday 15 February 2024
AC unit finally came yesterday, three weeks late. One technician sick so called in another guy causing delay. Worked then all day installing the unit to discover that its motherboard is bad and will not send power to raw water cooling pump. Part on order.
Friday
Work removing generator to install new Kubota engine, which has been here for three weeks, promised to begin this afternoon. Didn't.
Saturday
Work removing generator to install new Kubota engine, which has been here for three weeks, rescheduled to begin this morning. Didn't.
Monday
Work removing generator to install new Kubota engine, which has been here for three weeks, again rescheduled to begin this morning. Did. Who could have known? Took all day for three men, two donkeys and a small child to remove Panda and cart away... except for the last three. The thing weighs perhaps a hundred forty kilo (over three hundred pounds) and came out of tight location in engine compartment with little overhead space. Can't wait to see them put it back.
Tuesday
Another all day project cleaning burned locker and replacing new instrument cable that required taking apart shelves, panels, binnacle pedestal and shifter/throttle assembly. To indicate seriousness of operation, late to happy hour. Egad!
Wednesday
Today, he avows confidently, plotter will be replaced and all instruments and autopilot tested perfect, water heater will be wired up and safely provide warm showers and life will again be beautiful. Also must visit Electec to check on generator progress, Mega Yard for confirming and making deposit on haul next Monday and prepare for guests at 1700 for dinner.
Saturday
Hard to believe, but instead of screwing around writing this twaddle somebody did boat work that has actually shown progress. Not on generator or AC, but, you know, everything else. Even though external GPS did not reconnect to system, one purchased in US is mounted and brings in every satellite above horizon. Waaaaaay cool. Aft AC is usable if saloon unit is running as well, although still no word on new motherboard. OK, that's the good news. Bad news is that generator had another problem that may or may not allow it to function with new diesel engine and won't know until all back together in boat at great cost after splash from haul-out. By the way, going to JMC Shipyard on French side with work done by local individuals instead of Mega Yard staff. We'll see how this turns out in a week or so and also with the Panda. Could be moving toward USVI by first week of March with everything operational... or not.
Jack & Jan
Can You Feel The Burn?
15 February 2024 | Cole Bay, Sint Maarten
Thursday 8 February 2024
Managed to pick up Jan's cold, so now also feel like excreta from a small to medium sized flying mammal. Hers lasted only two days, so hoping for same.
Another rainy day that should be last for awhile. Nevertheless need to get out to talk with tradies working on dead systems and retrieve parts shipped in. Want work to be completed ASAP, but hope no one starts today.
Friday
Water heater hose break last night caused short that damaged heater, fused both its thermostats, melted watermaker hoses, destroyed all Navionics connections aft, burned other wires and probably rendered stuff inoperative that hasn't yet been located. Circuit breaker didn't trip. No system water, hot or cold, and we won't have key and tokens for marina showers until Monday. Might be a grubby weekend.
Saturday
Although no one has PVC pipe or fittings as installed, found parts at chandleries to jury rig pressure water system with reinforced clear hose using barbs. Cold showers, but at least we can sluice the accumulated scum off. Will begin working on water heater and maker parts Monday.
Sunday
Have no memory of having done anything today... or having actually experience it at all. Yeah, one of those.
Monday
Ran around much of day to places that might and didn't have parts for water heater and maker. Finally found two thermostats, wire, properly sized butt connectors and pressure hose (from a Bennett trim tab system). Have dream of fixing water heater and maker tomorrow. Also have visions of unlimited wealth so someone else can fix everything and let me know when it's done. Probabilities are about even.
Tuesday
Because most involved, installed watermaker hoses to connections behind hanging locker that renders aft stateroom a disaster until done. That's it. Nothing else. Happy to get that cleaned up. Now at Lagoonies drowning adversities in rum punches and piglet sandwich. Death to Babe. Would ordinarily feel guilt, but alcohol helps. Not only is food and drink ameliorative, but weather is quite nice. Life is good. (rum punches?)
Jack & Jan
Life In The Fast Lane
07 February 2024 | St Petersburg, Florida
Wednesday 31 January 2014
Reasonably sure the knee op went very well. Surgeon said so. Recovery is proceeding apace. Anyway, after taking the dressing off at least the scar will be pretty. Doc, same one who did hip revision last winter, took a look and pronounced me fine. Asked if a post-op X-ray should be taken as originally suggested he said, "No point, it's all glued in." What he didn't say, "And even if screwed up you're stuck with it. Good luck sucker." Hey, I can read between the lines!
"I used to think that the brain was the most wonderful organ in my body. Then I realized who was telling me this."
- Emo Phillips
After twelve days, pain is improving during daytime, but nights are still a bit rough. As in many situations red wine seems to help.
"To alcohol! The cause of, and solution to, all of life's problems."
- Matt Groening, The Simpsons
We live on a boat, nearly always outside the US, so need a year of prescription medications when here. Getting doctor and insurance authorizations was a goat rope last year, but got sorted. Apparently the concept was forgotten since then and became even more of a mystery so despite plenty of explanation and two weeks lead it's been more difficult and time is now running short.
Sunday 4 February 2024
Finally got drug situation organized Friday. Insurance company dragged feet and only paid for ninety days, but we got everything necessary for the year. No worries, we'll start pressing doc harder to send in paperwork immediately upon arrival next time.
Would have left tomorrow, but Jan caught the ugly cold circulating this area and has felt like bat guano for two days. Getting better this evening, but now shooting for Tuesday. More seats showing then too.
Wednesday - next one
No room on first possible connection flight yesterday to Atlanta at 0555 that showed seats available, but made second that showed full. Happens that way sometimes. Easy connection on to St. Maarten that arrived on time with all luggage. Made it home in time for happy hour at Lagoonies. Delta remains our airline of preference and not only because it pay me to not work for it any more.
Today we hit the ground limping (after sleeping in) to attempt getting bags unpacked and newly purchased boat crap hidden safely away so we won't stress over not using it to fix the reasons we bought it. New generator engine and AC have just arrived, so have to schedule work for that. Sooo... can't store all new stuff because of displaced stuff for generator and AC work. OK, not quite a logistical nightmare, but hey, we went sailing to simplify, right?
We're now at Lagoonies with the obligatory two dollar rum punches as the island is deluged in rain from a frontal system that should not have gotten this far south. Tomorrow's dew point is equal to temperature so air cannot physically hold more moisture. We're using AC, the saloon unit that mostly works when erratic shore power is available, more to dry the air than for lower temp. Cruising on a sailboat - not all sugarplums and lollipops. We wouldn't do anything else.
Jack & Jan
Boat Bits And Political Snits
29 January 2024 | St Petersburg, Florida
Tuesday 23 January 2024
Except for moving to new digs tomorrow, we're free for next two days. Malinger is my middle name. However, PT (Physical Torture ... called therapy by providers trying to fool the oppressed) made this morning more fun than being savaged by crazed badgers. Gabe punished me today and will again Friday and two times next week. Returning to boat soon is warmly anticipated for many reasons.
Wednesday
Today: bright sunlight beaming out of clear, blue skies, balmy breezes, warm smiles from hotel, bar and restaurant patronizing snowbirds keeping Florida taxes low - the proper way to participate in winter. Jan's sister in Guelph, Ontario, is experiencing a warm spell as temperatures may creep above freezing by mid-afternoon. In completely unrelated news, we will delay visit until summer during sail to Nova Scotia.
Thursday
Last of toys for boat arrived at Angela's and we have no idea how we'll get it all back home. In fairness the pile was huge, but mostly due packaging. Weight may be a problem with several pumps and the Starlink antenna, Dishy. Of course we can find a way to get by short a pump or two, but gotta stay connected to the grid - middle of the ocean, day or night, on a whim.. Yeah!
Saturday
After infliction of pain yesterday morning picked up boat parts at Angela's for relocation to Sheilia's condo up the road where we moved Thursday. Back in old stomping grounds by the water. Her friend, Shirley, brought a huge suitcase to get rid of so gave to us for dragging all new toys back to St. Maarten. We'll have plenty of room, but limited to a mere ninety two kilos (200 lbs.) plus another thirty six (80 lbs.) in carry-ons. Might be a struggle getting it all in, but may do.
Sunday
A walk in the park, then football. That's it. Entire day. Chiefs and Forty-niners. Superbowl in Las Vegas.
Monday
Shoulder doc this morning. As surmised, MRI shows ruptured rotator cuff. Three options: Replace joint, attempt to repair cuff muscle or do nothing. Joint replacements are mainly for serious pain. Repair iffy because it will stay weak for a year and likely tear again with expected level of activity. Now know situation. Currently, by compensating for a few positions, have virtually full practical use and little pain. So... nut 'n' honey. PT later today to learn exercises for strengthening compensating muscles.
After obligatory Starbucks break PT was helpful and should get shoulder into pretty good shape once exercises are applied consistently - added to morning routine.
*** Another Rant *** for sensitive folk unfamiliar with my individualist versus collectivist perspective, suggest you skip. You probably won't understand.
Knee coming along fine except for pain, which is causing a fair bit of discomfort and difficulty sleeping. War on drugs has induced a mass insanity in legislators and consequently doctors who have to rationalize leaving their patients in unnecessary distress. For major surgery which may cause two weeks or more of acute pain they prescribe perhaps three to six days optimal relief. How does that make sense? Is there a magical shift in reality that occurs after six days that eliminates pain and causes opioids to kill people? After six days are doctors then forced to continue prescribing a sufficient quantity of opioids to patients until they die? Assuming most doctors aren't idiots or scoundrels and thus not at fault, a black market is available after either six or fourteen days, before or after major discomfort recedes, but people who are hurting the most are the ones more likely to resort to it where quality, quantity and adulterants such as fentanyl create a real danger. There are around sixty four million surgeries in the US every year and about forty seven thousand total deaths from opioids or .000734. Can't find how many are caused by prescriptions continually approved by doctors after surgery, but suspect significantly fewer, probably not many. Similar to most regulation, millions suffer because of harm to a relatively small number that may or may not be reduced by emotionally driven and ill-conceived rules. Nearly everyone can suffer a week of even the worst pain if she has to, but why should she have to? As another example of mass hysteria, whatever one thinks about marijuana, it has been feared, vilified and classified in the highest category with what are proposed the most dangerous drugs, but is now legal for about half US population and likely to become even more legally available as more states quickly and Federal law slowly catch up.
For me, by the time we return to St Maarten, incentive to delve into extra-legal recourse will have passed. How about the other millions?
Jack & Jan
It's What You Make Of It
22 January 2024 | Tampa, Florida
Monday 22 January 2024
Another frigid day in paradise. We've been curling up in our buffalo robes with hot cocoa, but forecast indicates warmer today. Anticipate late breakfast at Panera (we slept in) then PT for shoulder at 1430 - hard day in the mines. Just two more days in Celeste's cozy apartment, then down to Tierra Verde, barrier island in Pinellas County, previous residence location, for the duration.
Twenty and thirty years ago Tierra Verde was home to numerous sailboats, but now almost none - power boats on lifts. With poor representation as well at boat show one might think Tampa Bay area residents have lost interest in sailing. It's a shame. Sailing clubs and schools have been a wonderful activity for kids. Hope they don't lose that. Initially seeing how you're able to manipulate sheets and rudder to make a boat move at your will is a confidence and joy inspiring event. Then you learn new things every time you go out and that never stops. It's a great activity that can be carried into advance doddery. We know.
Looks like the !@#$%^&* walker will now be history. Useful to have had it. More better to cast it aside and use... maybe a cane, maybe without. We'll see.
Nothing more snarky to write so you get this...
*** Political Comment Alert *** Delicate sensibilities should skip
"David Menzies, reporter, approached Canadian Finance Minister Chrystia Freeland with a microphone and began walking alongside her, asking about the government's decision to leave the Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps off its designated terrorist list. An officer stepped into Menzies's path, and Menzies appeared to bump into him. The officer then grabbed Menzies, shoved him against a wall, and told him he was under arrest for assault".
Taken from Charles Oliver at "Reason".
Canada has gone remarkably authoritarian under Justin Trudeau, particularly since covid and this is just one incident, but when the Overton Window slides over enough to blithely allow this sort of thing (and you can find examples everywhere), we should begin paying attention.
Jack & Jan
The Good, The Bad And The Drizzly
21 January 2024 | Tampa, Florida
Friday 19 January 2024
After a couple appointments ending at 1230 yesterday thought we would spend balance of afternoon wandering around boat show, but left two hours before close. Disappointing. It's now combined and billed as St Pete Power and Sailboat Show, in that order, for an obvious reason. There were perhaps a dozen sailboats, mostly catamarans and many of those for charters. The one equipment tent was devoted to power related gear and fishing. Setting for original terrific Latitudes & Attitudes Cruiser's Party, the magazine didn't even have someone in their small booth, just some free L&A issues. It was raining. Met Angela for early drinks and dinner at The Hanger, a very good downtown airport restaurant.
On a more upbeat note, arrived surgery clinic this morning at 0600 and was on the chopping block first. A perfect job - the surgeon told me so. Knee a bit painful for awhile, but now feeling swell (no pun intended). Probably hurt like the dickens when nerve block is completely gone, about twenty four hours. However must have made a decent case, because received six days of Oxycodone rather than three. Danced (slight hyperbole) around the ward almost immediately and once doctor was pretty sure I wouldn't croak was cut loose. Back in apartment before 1400.
Saturday
"There is no pleasure in having nothing to do; the fun is in having lots to do and not doing it."
- Mary Wilson Little
We have nothing to do. We're bored. It's a mind trick. Funny how that works.
Actually we'll go to Costco to pick up Jan's new glasses, then head to Starbucks to squander the afternoon. Not as much fun as dismantling a head when it blocks then beating scale out of its hoses, but tolerable.
Sunday
We're freezing our butter beans off here in Florida. Nine degrees celsius at eleven am. It's just not right. Northeast wind is bringing air from record frigid north, but will veer east in a day or so to get back to normal. After living last fifteen years mostly in tropics, we don't do cold well. At least the sun is finally shining.
Forgot from first knee replacement how difficult it is moving around. Didn't want a walker, just a cane, but finally knuckled under to pressure. They were right. Much easier for awhile. Did a turn around the block then headed to CVS Pharmacy for ice packs and waterproof dressings. Drove through Starbucks for a caffeine hit and back to apartment for a wee rest.
OK, that's it. Now back to lying around. At least whimpering pitifully gives me something to do.
Jack & Jan
Suffer Unannointed Rabble
17 January 2024 | Tampa, Florida
Tuesday 16 January 2024
We're scarfing bagels with cream cheese and barely tolerable coffee at Panera Bread Company awaiting proclamation to surgeon by PCP of my likelihood to survive surgery. Blood tests show all green, so only impediment may be head cold that hangs on. Except for tickle induced cough, faking it with OTC drugs seems feasible. Appointment time approaches. Don't ask, don't tell.
Wednesday
MRI for shoulder and last minute instructions from knee doctor today. Pre-op physical therapy and dermatologist in the morning then off to St. Pete Sailboat Show for the afternoon. Be glad to get all this medical crap out of the way for another year. Tentatively flying back to St Maarten Monday, 5 February.
Informed by surgeon and PCP that it's impossible to get more than three days of Oxycodone, no way no how, because legislators and regulators in Florida due their messianic zeal to prosecute the War on Drugs are content with causing major surgery patients the greatest possible pain. That might not be an exact quote. Had two weeks worth in South Africa. This is yet one more war on a noun that we've lost.
No worries. We'll be back in the real world in a few weeks where temperatures are more to our liking (forecast for this Tuesday, 4 C) and to savor the joy and gratification of excessive (defined as any) boat work.
Jack & Jan