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Anthem Adrift
No Mutiny for Captain Blithe
11/30/2009, Spanish Water, Curacao

Floating Bridge Amove

November 30

Last day of wimpy hurricane season. Disappointment at lack of excitement is subdued.

Renting, at lowest possible cost, what promises to be a junker from 1400 tomorrow until same time Wednesday to collect crew on 2050 flight from MIA, then for transportation to immigration next morning, is fewer guilders than one-way shuttle from airport and half that of taxi. Although unable to enjoy sport of having them find their way cross-island at night to within hailing distance of dinghy dock at Fisheries Harbor, avoiding mutinous rabble on boat for succeeding month precludes that option.

Was struck by fact that while floating bridge spanning entrance to Curacao Harbor motors itself aside to allow boats to enter, pedestrians, unaccountably assumed, unlike in US, to have the odd brain cell, continue to walk across without falling off open end. Curacao has apparently escaped infestation of ambulance chasing barristers (no offense intended toward England where that term may still carry some honorable connotation).

While possible to drill and tap all of boom bits to each other and to mast, had decided to have expert, Tys (name unpronounceable in English) at Curacao Marina, rivet (reportedly included with 'kit') biggest chunks to avoid internal rough edges where reefing and outhaul lines traverse. As happens, Inspiration Lady possesses big honking tool, now borrowed, for job allowing circumvention of this additional complication. Confidence, flying in face of sensible probability, remains high.


Water, Water Everywhere, Nor Any Drop to Drink
11/29/2009, Spanish Water, Curacao


November 29

As expected, rebedding dockline chock today was a pig tussle and twice as messy. 5200 is, contrary to what 3M would tell you, a live organism that will, besides making everything stuck together with it impossible to separate, jump onto anything within several feet of use. This was a good news, bad news operation. Downside, the difficulty. Upside, as the entire passage through gunwale is fiberglassed, the only possibilities for leakage, theoretically, are four screw holes. No need to do it again with other five. This begs question, therefore, of leak, if not thusly caused. Oh shucks, or more expressive words to that effect.

Cleaned galley, but left head and shower for later. Dust hippos can wait as well. Otherwise watched The Maltese Falcon and relaxed with book authored by Clive Cussler who didn't write it. It's a scam, but a tolerable, mindless read by Craig Dirgo. Good literature tends to require a mental acuity that has currently gone missing.

Finally got enough rain, not to wash off previous dirt piles, but to remove salt from yesterday's cleaning. That worked out pretty well. Incentive to wash boat again, should observation of dirt ever again exceed customarily elevated tolerance, has increased minutely.

Other than preparation for fetching crew on Tuesday evening and attaching boom when it arrives, then meeting returned Inspiration Ladys in Willemstad for lunch, tomorrow should be fairly mellow. Be advised, previous assertion was an exercise in hope over experience as something will certainly intrude upon rosy scenario.

"A person is never happy except at the price of some ignorance." - Anatole France


Splice the Main Brace, Ya Swabs
11/28/2009, Spanish Water, Curacao

View from Club Asiento in Spanish Water

November 28

Rode free supermarket bus this morning to Budget Marine, a hardware store and, strangely enough, a supermarket. Bought odds and ends at first two including threaded stainless rod for experiment with mast. Had such good luck weakening boom with drilled, and subsequently corroded, holes, thought it a good idea for the really big spar. Concept is to run rod through front of mast to capture wires that now slap against sides when boat rocks. What could go wrong?

Experienced another rain shower Thursday night that converted little piles of red Bonaire dirt (ref. Nov. 25) into bigger, even more unsightly piles. Although normally oblivious to filth, roused slothful carcass to wash deck with Orpine in salt water. Results were sufficiently pleasing to precipitate another such effort - perhaps, some day - should the need arise.

Boat work (a four letter word) could occur tomorrow. May attempt to fix leaks that are suspected to emanate from midship dockline chocks. Because they are embedded through raised gunwales with 3M 5200 (polyurethane sealer), expect to employ hammer and crowbar as dynamite is difficult to procure. Also, should resort to house cleaning, anticipating arrival of crew on Tuesday, but hey!, what are crew for? "The floggings will continue until moral improves." Arghhhh!


PS Title phrase may not mean what you think.

Prolonging Parcel's Peregrinations
11/28/2009, Spanish Water, Curacao

Willemstad from Commercial Dock

November 27

Ship purported carrying boom scheduled arrival Wednesday. Stop. Due customs and
handling, slim possibility of sweaty mitts on it Friday. Stop. Perhaps Monday.
Stop. Dididit. Didididit. Didit. Dah. Stop.

After a day of riding buses, first to Best Buy Super Market for the odd grocery,
then to Caribbean Cargo for customs paperwork and glad tidings of delayed joy
(from which walk back seemed much longer than as observed through bus window
going), hopped on again to Willemstad for, among other things, an early dinner of
exquisite Caribbean cuisine. Nearly chose KFC in honor of Inspiration Lady crew
(returning to paradise this evening from frigid windswept wasteland), but sudden
urge to avoid coronary bypass drew me to nearby Subway instead.

"Very little is known of the Canadian country since it is rarely visited by
anyone but the Queen and illiterate sport fishermen."
- P. J. O'Rourke

Lesson for the day: Big buses have set routes. Little buses, while posting
destinations, do not. Passengers must provide enlightenment upon boarding.
Enjoyed lovely excursion through hitherto unknown parts of Curacao, helping
everyone else disembark and banter with amiable driver prior to returning home
thirty minutes late.


Chill Dude!
11/26/2009, Spanish Water, Curacao

Spanish Water

November 26

After clearing in with immigration and, just outside secure area where it is located, watching two kids steal the hubcaps from a parked car, enjoyed a good breakfast at tree shaded, outdoor Cafe Habana on a plein (square) beside the movable pontoon bridge over Willemstad's entrance channel (not much wider than the cruise ships that sometimes come in... and back out). Looking at adoring posters of Che and Fidel, and realizing that the waiters were quite happy serving a capitalist pig (our smart and lovable porcine friends often, as here, get a bad rap), it occurred to me how few people really appreciate the ideas and concepts that animate revolutionaries like Guevara and, for example, Thomas Jefferson whom they may idolize and support. No matter the disparate results of actualizing vastly different philosophies, there is something, sophistry or not, in any set of ideas that nearly anyone can latch onto, rationalizing the rest. Good, well- meaning people, it seems, are just as likely to espouse and support the philosophy of a charismatic leader that demonstrably damages their freedom, quality of life and societal structure as one that enhances them. Afterward, was able to rationalized a scoop of mood-enhancing ice cream and felt guilty (but it helped with that other thing).

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." - Douglas Adams

On a brighter note, signed on to reasonably priced and very fast wifi internet and had reunion with several friends, British and Dutch/Canadian, not seen for many months. Another Canadian couple, whose boat is on the hard, are returning from travels tomorrow. Delightful, upbeat people, all.

Well, after some scintillating repartee and a few beers, I feel vastly better. You OK?


Easy Does It
11/25/2009, Spanish Water, Curacao

Goodbye Bonaire

November 25

Departed Kralendijk mooring before sunrise for a better than expected sail to Curacao. Yankee carried the boat at 4.5, then, as true wind increased to lower 20s, up to 6.3 knots in 3 foot seas on the port quarter. A few sprinkles en route was just enough to cause a layer of deposited wind-borne dust from Bonaire to clump into untidy little piles. Looking for a good gully washer.

Crew arrives Tuesday. Boom arrives Wednesday. Boat fixed Thursday. Wow! That was easy. Meantime, will continue messing with arrangement of particulars to accommodate three souls, two of whom may care about being comfortable(ish).

Spanish (Spaanse) Water, a large, nearly landlocked, irregular bay, located five miles and 20 minutes by bus southeast of the capitol, Willemstad, is the cruising center. Was sceptical of claim for no mosquitos, but discovered that air whips through anchorage like a wind tunnel. No insects; amps out the wazoo; bar close by where Night Hawk and Going South crews set bad example for me to emulate. Doesn't suck so far.

Agenda tomorrow: bus ride to clear in, get lay of the land and find various friends in area. Can't think of a reason to get up before cruisers net at 0745. Unlikely to overheat ganglia trying.


Round and Round We Go
11/24/2009, Kralendijk, Bonaire

Jibe City

November 24

Chase VISA is off friends and family list due putting temporary hold on payments for boom and items ordered on-line to be carried to Curacao next week by crew. Spent delightful morning confirming all bits in transit after Liz, last night, pummeled card fraud lackeys into submission. This is third time for these donkey orifices and possibly last.

Balance of day spent on rented scooter with barely enough power to get out of its own way and bad shocks. Discovered that outback of Bonaire is filled mostly with cactus and seven species of lizard, some quite fleet. Saw one big, amorous guy, looking to knock off a little iguana, if you get my drift, getting the cold shoulder from a lady (gave her benefit of doubt) at about 20 miles an hour. Also noted many donkeys (passed up chance to visit Donkey Heaven) and goats plus, incongruously, since most of the place is desert, a sizeable population of flamingos, some of which, being almost orange, must eat a lot of whatever does that.

Two useless facts: Eight kinds of bat are the only native mammals and bats, world-wide, make up 1/6th of all mammal species. Awe and amaze your friends at the next polo match with this fascinating data care of Washington Slagbaai National Park Museum where a time-line depiction references events on the island to, among other things, the deaths of Chairman Mao and Elvis. Unable to divine what must surely be a message.

Lac Bay, on south windward coast, is locale for wind surfing center at Jibe City. Didn't see the first kite. Most at beach bar (where frickandellen was found, unsurprisingly, to be chubby sausages) were a tad rotund to use the nearby 'pros only' storage area.


No Skunk on Menu
11/23/2009, Kralendijk, Bonaire

Jibe City, Windmills, Cactus Fences, Flamingo, KLM MD11 at Airport

November 23

Retrieved most of injured paraphernalia from various locales about the island, all in same woeful state as when parcelled out. Radio will wend its way back home manana as, possibly, the only better-made bit. Clearing out and subsequent return of assault weapon, flare gun should complete preparation for what promises to be a bumpy, downwind sail to Curacao Wednesday morning.

And now for the restaurant section. Should someone discover by chance, deviousness (perhaps your sig-o (abbreviation for significant other sounds suspiciously like sicko) has administered drugs from which you have just awoken (reference yesterday's query)) or conscious act, that your coordinates are consistent with Bonaire (you could check position on a cool new iPhone or just ask someone), find Mona Lisa Restaurant and stay for dinner. (I know the last sentence seems confusing, but diagram it like Mrs. McCaskel made you do in high school for perfect clarity) It's all been terrific: barracuda, wahoo, pork sate. Don't burn your tongue on the au gratin potatoes.

Flocks of flamingos will parade their plumage once I secure a scooter for investigating the island... tomorrow (reason, besides weather, for delaying until day after). Scheduled cruise ship necessitates early rental to preclude getting skunked, so ta ta.


Boat Projects
11/22/2009, Kralendijk, Bonaire

Cruise Boat

November 22

For anyone finding himself (despite what you may think, this word is generic and refers also to women) in Bonaire (while this implies surprise, the effort necessary to get here would normally preclude an unexpected arrival) and Jonesing for breakfast, City Cafe is a fine choice. This determination was reached after running its price, quality, quantity profile through the BARF (breakfast associated restaurant finder) algorithm. Crispy bacon (first since US); fast wifi; view of the sea. One caveat, ask for eggs over easy lest they be vulcanized (no relation to Spock). Two untried dinner specialties are bitterballen and frickandellen... those wacky Dutch!

Was stunned and amazed to see, on commercial dock this morning, cruise ship that, to all outward appearance, was a boat. Since new liners look like enormous, newly built, high rise housing projects, this one, also being rather small, must be of rather archaic vintage. Was easily able to stifle normal groan upon first sighting.

Apologies to anyone expecting immediate reply after leaving a comment on website. Editor and social secretary are quite lax. Unable to fire either due to close relationship to captain. Would threaten flogging, but believe it unlikely this would help.

Little open on shore, Sunday, so after purchasing gas at $4.58/gal. and settling with Harbour Village Marina on mooring fees, squandered day with movies, books, arranging boat for crew and unconsciousness.


Decampment? (A Real Word)
11/21/2009, Kralendijk, Bonaire

Kralendijk Waterfront

November 21

One might think cruisers an independent lot. Au contraire. More like a ragtag military. They tend to campaign in groups and bivouac together to pillage and plunder seaside villages with occasional raiding forays into the countryside. Rucksacks containing provisions, change of uniform and various weapons (flashlights, etc.) are commonly carried. Then, of course, there's the uniform, itself. Sandals (non-marking soles), shorts, with T-shirts and ball caps promoting some previous island or a bar thereon. Although periodic substitutes are lace-up boat shoes, bathing suits, collared shirts (formal events) and floppy wide-brimmed hats, you know, on sight, who they are. If not selling something, locals try to ignore the tramping feet.

Heavy cogitating on all facets of current situation has led, despite enjoyment of Bonaire, to alteration in strategy (a rather free-flow process, at best). Intend, if loose ends (including five bits of property abroad upon the land, six if boom counts twice) get properly tied, sail of 35 nautical miles, probably Wednesday next week, to Curacao. Receipt of new spar will occur a day earlier (ship goes there first), nephew and niece-in-law (Will & Richena), hereinafter referred to as the crew, will save cost of hotel plus shuttle from there to here and location adjustment will result in reunion with friends, conceivably referred to as the Eastern Caribbean Irregulars, presently wreaking havoc in Spanish Water.

Meanwhile, there exist fish, rum and eyelids to be, respectively, eaten, drunk and examined. Let the process begin.

"All human situations have their inconveniences. We feel those of the present but neither see nor feel those of the future; and hence we often make troublesome changes without amendment, and frequently for the worse." - Benjamin Franklin


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S/V Anthem
Who: Jack Warren, Janice Holmes
Port: Weeki Wachee, FL
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See profile for information on why this mess is being foisted upon an innocent world and, despite what is probably your better judgement, how to make contact.
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