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Anthem Adrift
Solo, But Not So Low
12/29/2009, Club Nautico Marina, Cartagena

The Plank

December 29

Crewless. It was 28 days, but seemed like four weeks. Floggings were employed infrequently, although everyone, this last week, walked the plank. Conversation may decrease slightly as there is only one of us to talk with now. Discussions may stimulate, but will seldom surprise.

Although Will, disreputable character that he may appear, was pulled aside in Miami for special attention, he and Chena three-hopped successfully to Louisville's 30 degrees. It was 30 here as well, but seemed much warmer. Perhaps Colombians pack more warmth into each degree or possibly use a different scale or something.

For a modest fee, alterations in VHF radio behavior have been realized. Speaker in cockpit microphone was induced to talk by use of searing torture device euphemistically referred to as a soldering iron. Although receiving via DSC (Digital Selective Calling, allowing communicated plan to ransack anchorage, for example, to remain secret) on main unit has only improved to marginal, believe that as word of methods used to extract compliance from remote device filters down to radio, attitudes will change.

Loss of visitors has precipitated a need to find follow-on excuse for avoiding boat work. Actually engaging in physical labor is, of course, an option somewhere down list. Extended periods of reflection over adult beverages or with eyes closed will precede and seek to avoid any impetuous or imprudent activity.


An Acting Cartel
12/28/2009, Club Nautico Marina, Cartagena

Chena, Contemplating Ice Cream

December 28

Crew spent morning at open air fresh market enjoying the flavor of a third world bazaar while the rest of us, me, took under advisement a suggestion to have someone from the marina (who speaks Spanish) check out Tonio, the prop guy, across town in Parque Los Borrachos (yes, in a park) before blindly venturing out there. Dockmaster John, recommended a short, stocky, bald fellow named Hymito meaning Little Hymie. Was so bemused by name, forgot to ask if he is Jewish or an oddly named Colombian. Will search for him again tomorrow.

Early morning trek to Asistencia Technica Maritima disclosed potentially good news. Sven had checked inverter and found mosfets were not fried as none were installed. Better system uses something else which were absolutely fried, but possibly obtainable. Also, found corrosion in VHF remote mic that may herald total fix. I'm not buying. Four days (over Christmas), instead of ten, to find easily fixable problems. Right! And Santa Claus is Foster Brooks.

Plied the well-worn calles and carreras of the old town with Inspiration Ladys to find reported food festival. Someone neglected to organize it, so we just plied some more. Had cervezas in a plaza beside three drug lords and their babes, straight from central casting. Who knows? Didn't ask. After still more plying ate a fine, reasonably priced meal before returning to boat with slight detour. Path home leads by Mimo ice cream parlor and Chena, fiendishly clever wench that she is, used her devilish wiles to lure us in for a cup. We blame her, entirely. It's not visible, but guilt runs rampant.


Uniformly Enjoyable
12/27/2009, Club Nautico Marina, Cartagena

Cevicheria Restaurant

December 27

Everyone stayed in until afternoon communing with their computer screens or napping. What a revolting development. Crew were messing with Gary's Acer while low finance occupied the onboard Mac. Pent up, unused energy finally broke free about 1600 forcing a walkabout to Centro. Found early dinner at a quaint (pardon me for saying so, Sue) restaurant on Calle (cah-yay means street) Stuart near Plaza San Diego. Paella would have been even better with a smidge less salt.

If not previously mentioned, Cartagena is knee-deep in law enforcement of all types. Can't turn a corner without bumping into a uniform. Probably why the area is so safe. Also heard the city is a demilitarized zone because druggers want a safe place to shop. The area appears to be awash in cash. Prodigious amounts of money are made by drug cartels pursuant to massive "war on drugs" by US, which pumps vast resources into the country for, manifestly, no effect on prodigious amounts of money made by drug cartels.

As noticed also in Puerto Rico, Spanish cultures seem to promote provocative women's attire. A straying eye so easily alights on the tight blouse or unrestrained cleavage (sexist pig or healthy male?). Dark under-belly (pun intended) of this, however, is self-censorship, seldom practiced by high percentage of less alluring individuals.

Tomorrow is last day for crew to lay waste to Cartagena. Seductive, last-minute baubles, which will subsequently gather dust, must yet be obtained. Monastery with the grand view must be visited. Fabulously touted restaurant must be patronized. Souvenirs and presents must be purchased. Or maybe we'll just screw off.


Ransom, A Game Everyone Can Play
12/26/2009, Club Nautico Marina, Cartagena

Fort San Felipe

December 26

Seems we are about to kick another year in the caboose, sending it into a past that will seem, in retrospect, either better or worse than it actually was. For my part, can't imagine it could have been so much fun, keeping in mind a pretty low threshold and an iffy memory.

Walked to San Felipe Fort before heat of day. Didn't help - hot. Very impressive fort didn't help Spanish much either as Drake captured it in 1586, plundered the town and ransomed the whole kit and kaboodle back to Spain for 110,000 ducats. No idea how much that was then, but in pesos now it comes to $55 US. He should have asked for more. Place is riddled with dark tunnels where powder was stored and which, upon capture, was to be ignited to turn the whole thing into rubble. Guess word didn't get around to the troops or possibly they told commanders to stick more than powder where the sun don't shine.

Dropped dink from davits for drinks at Inspiration Lady, anchored way out in 50 feet of slimy bottom. Will and Chena were commandeered and shackled below to fix vexatious gremlins in egregiously complex computer/monitor/internet/entertainment system on the Brewer designed behemoth while everyone else enjoyed soda pops and snacks in the cockpit. Ever eager to avoid the lash, they apparently fixed all but one technical problem. Electronic paraphernalia returned with them to Anthem for continuation of efforts. Serious thought given to ransoming gear back to owners for 10,000 ducats or a couple of cervazas.

By the way Dixie, a boat just beside our friends, had its dinghy stolen after thief cut though 1/4" security chain last night. During morning net, someone shared info that "there's this guy" who might be able to ransom it back. Guess this is South America.


12/25/2009, Club Nautico Marina, Cartagena

Old World, Quaint

December 25

Feliz Navidad. Vrolijke Kerstmis. Joyeux Noel. Frohe Weihnachten. Buon Natale. Merry Christmas.

Slow day at Club Nautico. Despite a realized urge, early on, to attack rust spots with On and Off, Christmas has been an exercise in prostration. Watched "The Illusionist" on HD big screen, then pilot for "Firefly" on computers. Both get thumbs way up (no, Cal, not up there). Basically didn't leave the boat until 1830.

Joined ILs and Js to perambulate Centro and San Diego, the walled old area. It's like miles of the best of New Orleans with narrow streets lined with second and third story balconies inside a fortress wall. There are shops, restaurants, residences and a cathedral interspersed. Christmas lights adorned many buildings. Horse drawn carriages carried revelers among the crowds and street performers entertained in the plazas. No one seemed drunk or disorderly. Saw no one smoking. A very happy, friendly experience.

Down side of the holiday is that no work gets done. Radio and charger molder on a back shelf. Prop sits uselessly in cockpit, but what the heck, there's a festive atmosphere, food is good, rum is cheap, it feels like summertime and the liv'in is easy.


Bad Girls and Golden Eggs
12/24/2009, Club Nautico Marina, Cartagena

Charge It

December 24

Broke down and bought mucho expensive "Smart" battery charger at Home Center. Alternative was small trickle unit. This one is "Fully Automatic Electronic" and handles gel and AGM as well. It equalizes and reconditions batteries and also performs minor cosmetic surgery with proper insurance. No boob jobs. Just hope it doesn't endanger passing fish with shrapnel by blowing copper-based anti- fouling off bottom.

Appears that dinghy prop will wait another day or three for attention due slow morning and other concerns. Traffic to hardware store was so bad (how bad was it?) that taxi there took longer than walk back. Seems Colombians procrastinate gift shopping even worse than Americans. After rigging new toy, arrived late to Christmas lunch at De Oliva for grand time with friends. Ended day walking over to the old city, Centro, for first visit. Beautiful.

Crew is cool to idea of staying up to capture St. Nick, so suppose the old guy will escape unscathed. Too bad as finding where naughty girls live could be a terrific business opportunity, not even counting the toys. On further reflection, it's probably just as well because like with the golden goose, you may only get one gift at a time out of that big bag and bad girls are, well... bad.


Hey, Hey, Hey, Santa's Gotta Stay
12/23/2009, Club Nautico Marina, Cartagena

Freezing in Cartagena

December 23

Anticipated visiting Old Town tomorrow morning, but planned Christmas dinner with friends midday may delay that activity until later. Also, may use early day to find fellow reportedly able to re-bush stainless outboard prop. Info was gathered without the first word of mutual understanding except 'bushing', so hoping for best with low expectation.

Frigid blast on second day of winter dropped high temp to 84 fahrenheit. Low clouds failed to deliver snow, but tomorrow, with forecast 2 degrees cooler, surely portends white Christmas. Unable to find parka and mukluks in Colombia. Will hope for best.

Quick perusal of previous entries revealed untold missed opportunities for inane, but personally amusing, malarkey. Given minimal memory and attention span, much ridiculous balderdash has been lost in purgatory of semi-sinful rhetoric. Writing down random ideas would facilitate releasing even more codswallop (I love the English) onto a gullible audience, but this would require an unlikely level of conscientiousness. Count your blessings.

Concern has arisen lest Santa be nonplussed by lack of chimney on Anthem and depart without showering occupants with well deserved largesse. Considered watch schedule for shoot-down, but previously contemplated Mossberg shotgun is presently unavailable.


PS Title is first half of naughty punchline. Write for enlightenment.

And I Was Having Such a Good Day
12/22/2009, Club Nautico Marina, Cartagena

State of the Art

December 22

Semi-promised to write something today after minimal exertion yesterday. Please keep in mind that disappointment is an important component of a balanced life. You are more fortunate than you know.

Motored over early to Club Pesca for fuel, then into Club Nautico dock. Electric panels there are electrician's worst nightmare, but power, when applied, braving an electrical conflagration that would potentially destroy every boat within visual range, was a solid 117v, 60 Hz. Notwithstanding, charger/inverter, suspect from failing to charge in Puerto La Cruz, seemed to operate OK until someone noticed burning insulation smell. Neither inverter nor charger thereafter took notice of switch positions or expletives undeleted.

Both Prosine 2.0 (inverter/charger) and Icom M422 (VHF radio) are in shop for potential repair (another triumph of hope over experience?). Sven (farthest northern Spain?) seems very competent, but is slammed and may not get to aforementioned trinkets for 10 days despite highly proficient whining. Suspects fried mosfets (a kind of hoity-toity transistor) in inverter may require sending to Xanrex repair station, Bogota, as available Chinese replacements are unreliable (i.e. crap). Bugger. May be in Cartagena longer than initially supposed.

Good news is that with nothing to do (yeah, right), feel obligated to find every ice cream parlor in vicinity for production of butt the size of Cleveland. The delights, so far undiscovered, of Cartagena await.


Drugging and Dragging, Not the Same Thing
12/21/2009, Cartagena, Colombia

Madonna and Child Monument, Inner Harbor, Cartagena

December 21

Cartagena in AM after very nice sail from Rio Magdalena. Heard Endorphin calling Procrastination and Witchcraft calling Gaia. No other ironies presented. Place is eat up with cops and Italian eateries.

Internet down. SSB propagation poor. Spent day afoot without clearing in. Returned late. May write something manana.


As It Should Be
12/20/2009, Past Rio Magdalena, Colombia

Dorado Dinner

December 20

Seems counterintuitive that we would be getting a counterclockwise countercurrent. Glad to have countermanded previous orders and took countermeasures last night to increase speed so as to encounter flotsam from the Rio before dark. Counterparts on Inspiration Lady were counted on to engaged in countervailing activity to counterbalance foul current as well. It would be counterproductive to produce any more of this twaddle.

We slew a second dolphin which, along with remains of first, was pan fried in Italian bread crumbs and eaten for early dinner. Copious leftovers and chubby tuna caught while crew washed dishes now reside in the frig awaiting future repast.

Unexpected north wind materialized at 1400 allowing conversion of craft into cutter rigged sailboat. Still have not escaped adverse current, but expect to do so directly as we continue beyond Magdalena. Since distance remaining is not great and we have all tomorrow, will sail through the night, if possible. Happy crew, now bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, are revelling in lovely reach with 13 knots wind and smooth seas.

"Most human beings have an almost infinite capacity for taking things for granted." - Aldous Huxley

Not here.


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S/V Anthem
Who: Jack Warren, Janice Holmes
Port: Weeki Wachee, FL
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See profile for information on why this mess is being foisted upon an innocent world and, despite what is probably your better judgement, how to make contact.
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