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Anthem Adrift
Rewarding Respite
08/11/2010, Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga

Matutu Brewery

August 10

This for Cal, who gets anxious unless things here are going wrong and broken stuff needs fixing (we're very good, longtime friends?), managed to get the Honda running again after threats, entreaties and pitiful whining initially proved inefficacious following salt water deluge on passage. Economy setting, slowing engine when load decreases, has yet to sign on, but at least batteries can be kept happy.

After a slow start, dragged bedraggled carcass on walkabout to find breakfast and a wifi card. Discovered that Cookers, Cookees, Cookanese, Cookeranians, Cook Islanders.. ah.. have their own excellent coffee, love brekkie (country has a close relationship with New Zealand) and charge for internet by the gigabyte. Also found a map, bus schedule, crunchy peanut butter, non-French dark rum and the Matutu brewery which gives free samples (their blond is fab) and sells it from a tap in two liter plastic bottles, cheap. Have not perceived urgent need for imminent departure.

"I generally avoid temptation unless I can't resist it." - Mae West


Bonding With Bedding
08/10/2010, Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga

Arrival Rarotonga

August 9

Wind backed me about 16 NM to the east of Avatiu Harbor, Rarotonga, so jibed onto starboard tack for last three and a half hours. Entered harbor just behind Inspiration Lady who thusly buys the ice cream. Waited 45 minutes for them to get secure and here's why. Trick is to drop anchor with just the right amount of scope, then back between boats into six foot south wall with 18 knot east wind and worse surge than San Salvador. After delay, came in to last available slot in Ohmygodyoudidntgothere corner surprisingly well with help from on shore line grabber, but then discovered why it was free. Inobvious level of water movement ricocheted around making boat motion look like hurricane Jacuzzi. After four hours of doubled dock line abuse a cat left and, with minimum sturm und drang, moved over. Motion is now generally violent in only one plane instead of all three. Access to land is an adventure in dinking.

Today's events emphasized two things: 1) it's too strenuous and expense (don't recall mentioning this point) to stay for only two days and 2) heightened need and short supply of rum has created excessive levels of angst. Near panic held in check by reported existence of tolerably affordable restockage from local purveyors.

Computer screen has unaccountably become rather fuzzy, so should let it recover and finish last of elusive number of rum drinks that were poured atop an indeterminate amount of local and Panamanian beer consumed during cruiser get- together at picnic tables on quai. Planned dinner ashore was unanimously scrubbed for lack of interest and, at least in this case, an earlier inception of extended and uninterrupted unconsciousness on an apparatus specifically designed (and lain fallow, lo these several days) for that very purpose.

G'night all.


Queer Query
08/08/2010, En Route to Rarotonga - Day 4


August 8

Rarotonga officials reportedly confiscate fresh produce so tossed everything that could be identified as such and appeared remotely edible into a pot with a little coconut milk and green Thai curry, cooked two cups of rice and made a humongous salad for dinner. Hope they don't question a frig full of leftovers.

Last 40 hours has been a romp. Hope to arrive tomorrow just as harbormaster and customs wake up if wind holds, but it's tended lower and backed to a broader reach, so may be a touch later. Hard to believe this is the longest passage until departing Minerva Reef for New Zealand early November. With a stop at Beverage Reef en route to Niue, max nights out will be two. It will be like sailing from St. Pete to Key West, but without the really strange people.

Speaking of which, show of hands one more time, who thinks I'm hiding out in the Florida Keys, making all this crap up facilitated by substantial infusions of rum, weed, but only an occasional hit of acid? Uh huh. Uh huh. OK, put'em down. Who thinks I'm actually sailing around on my own boat in the South Pacific? Uh huhhhh. Wow!

In tonight's philosophy segment, a question that has stumped great thinkers since Aristotle. Take a minute. "What if this weren't a hypothetical question?" - Unknown


Dancing on the Wagon
08/08/2010, En Route to Rarotonga - Day 3


August 7

Weather guesser seems to have been a day late and a Beaufort short on forecast as wind began filling in at O dark hundred and just kept building early morning along with sea. Previous zephyr became 20 to 25 gusting over 30 all day in 3 meter sea with prospect of continuing until arrival. Boat, reaching at hull speed with double reefed main and staysail, isn't exactly dancing like a meth- doped Lippizaner, but big rollers periodically submerge lee deck.

"Weebuls wobble but we don't fall down."

Ride has been relatively dry except for that one pesky wave right at the beginning that filled the cockpit and poured Pacific Ocean onto me, quarter berth, cruising guides and computer. Immediately undertaken preventative and remedial measures have, so far, yielded acceptable results.

Research shows that one or two adult beverages a day is good for you. Well then, since previous four days were dry, celebration on night of arrival Rarotonga should accommodate five to ten so health on passage will have been retroactively maintained. Hmmmm, wonder if I can pick up that day last week and, maybe, when sick in Daniel's Bay and wasn't there a day a couple months ago....


Fare Thee Well, but Fair... Well?
08/07/2010, En Route to Rarotonga - Day 2

Biking Maupiti

August 6

Snuffed the drifter at 0400 as breeze began to freshen under overcast with distant flashes of lightning. When wind died at 0530 in torrential rain and engine did too right after starting and didn't immediately restart, boat was actually going backward in half knot eastward current. After checking various potential culprits and noise of rain decreased, restarted initially stumbling Westerbeke which then ran OK. Suspect coking from running too lightly. This was sum of excitement for a day which was primarily spent reading back issues of Latitudes and Attitudes magazine and napping with periods of sailing at from .5 to 2.5 knots without disagreeable clatter. Torpid brain has congealed into Crisco.

Due departing French Polynesia, will soon haul down $3 blue, white and red courtesy flag-on-a-stick and begin flying equally chintzy one for Cook Islands. Having lasted through St. Martin, Guadaloupe, Martinique and FP, it should be forgiven for having tattered away all red. It now represents either a backward "H" or international distress signal, "I've fallen and can't get up".

Polynesia was such a delight, fear that future stops will be disappointing, but am told it gets even better. Like many Kiwis, Aussies, Brits and some Canadians, who are often intelligible, with effort, to people in the U.S., islanders now will be using, as their second rather than third language, English. By the way, it seems wrong that England should name a lingo that they can't even speak without an accent. Of course, I don't suppose many Americans are embarrassed about having hogged the word that describes an entire hemisphere. Life just isn't fair.


All Kinds of Fun
08/06/2010, En Route to Rarotonga - Day 1

Calm at Maupiti Pass

August 5

Couldn't ask for a more perfect day of sailing... well, except that the wind was too light and too far aft and seas weren't as smooth as they could have been and... but all things considered it was wonderful. Although based on predictions from weather weasels, anticipate veering and freshening breeze by tomorrow which will, as hope runs amok, allow landfall in Rarotonga on or about (meaning sometime later) Monday morning.

No matter how recent a last overnight, at sunset after the first day of a passage, there is a feeling of anticipation. Many dislike sailing in the dark, but there's something really magical that just isn't present in daylight. Whether the moon gives your seascape a silvery glow or visible stars create what appear to be millions of pin pricks in the heavens and an iridescent milky way stretches from horizon to horizon or, on a cloudy night, the world is completely impenetrable blackness, restricted vision pulls the universe into a small space and paradoxically accentuates its vastness. It could make a person philosophical. I normally just get sleepy, but it takes all kinds.

"When I works, I works hard; when I plays, I plays rough; and when I thinks, I falls asleep." - Anonymous


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