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Anthem Adrift
Fun Facts Facetiously Foisted
09/15/2010, Apia, Samoa

September 14

Samoa (formerly 'Western', which commandeered the generic name just as did America) is apparently a very conservative place, highly resistant to change, practicing (outside of Apia) Fa'a Samoa, a pure pre-industrial socialism. Due to absence of individual ownership a local might walk off with your property as a matter of normal practice. Although the people are very peaceful and exceedingly friendly, this can create some conflict with more European sensibilities where working for everyone else (or not, depending upon personal penchant), while expecting them to give you everything you want hasn't quite caught on yet among a dwindling majority. This is, of course, a fun game for some only if everyone is forced to play whether they want to or not. Nobody gets ahead here.

Other tidbits that piqued interest, gleaned from various sources, including Moon Handbook: "Samoa" is Samoan for sacred chicken. This is the center of the South Pacific Bible Belt. The country has one of the highest suicide rates in the world. If a visitor is thought to be intruding he might get stoned by village children. This is usually avoided by smiling, so ostensibly, acting friendly is not optional. Cranky visitors take note. "Eco" is promoted heavily, including eco-helicopter rides and eco-prices for gullible eco-tourists. Much of the coral around Apia has been killed by fishing with dynamite. Each village has a high chief who is too grand to speak, so also has a talking chief. Families live in Fale (fah-LAY) that have no walls - a touch less private than Haight/Ashbury in the 60s. With admittedly limited sampling data, have concluded that rain never stops, ever.

In more personal news, red/green navigation light discontinued operation on sail from Pago Pago. Will attempt cajoling a return to service if rain ever ceases, otherwise will go 'stealth' to Tonga. Anchor and chain have been dropped onto dock from bow locker (vented into V-berth) for eradicating tuna enhanced bouquet and munge acquired in Pago Harbor. Helped Evi on Wonderland replace cracked fuel hose that had caused a diesel sheen over much of the marina. Officials threatened $5000 fine, but when told "no", just said not to do it again. That should also turn the trick for next speeding ticket.

"Communism doesn't work because people like to own stuff." - Frank Zappa


Fixed, Fed and Fagged
09/14/2010, Apia, Samoa

September 13

A good downwind run over to Apia was culminated with light winds provoking shaking out double reef just before getting blasted with 25. There's probably an immutable law of nature in there somewhere, a corollary to Murphy, perhaps. The puff was hiding in rain that continued all day without additional wind or much cooling.

All yachts are required into shiny new, inexpensive, floating dock marina where officials come to you for all formalities. This is good. Unfortunately, after arriving at 0900, remained under house arrest with breakfast unattainable just across the street until last guy came at 1400. Once freed up, fed and ATMed, headed for hospital to have crown reinstalled a scintilla out of position for only 20 tala, about $8.50.

Circumstance of islands, other boats and such in close proximity allowed only minimal Zs overnight, but invitation to expected, then realized excellent and free home-cooked meal on Jackster prompted dragging semi-somnambulant carcass out of bed where reading had degenerated to napping. No further interruption is expected toward phase four unconsciousness to begin mere moments from now.


Lowerarchy of Needs
09/13/2010, En Route Apia, Samoa

Tuna Boat in Pago Harbor

September 12

Wasn't kidding about atrocious eating habits. Lard intensive Samoan diet was turning blood into sludge. Last few days have felt logy and inert with low grade headache, so took to eating cereal, fruit, nuts and berries. Seems to have worked, as am again frisky as a pup.

Took notice that cannery was not befouling atmosphere in the anchorage today. Although some might suggest that being closed on Sunday is the explanation, am pretty sure its a scurrilous trick to entice the unwary to stay. Have not been fooled. Did not come down with the last rain, you know. Currently rocking and rolling rather slowly toward Apia, Samoa.

As was yesterday implied possible, priorities were set, tools were employed, work was accomplished. In no particular order of importance, cleaned head/shower, greased cranky door latch, replaced blown water system accumulator (based on name, an incorrect assumption could be made for this even-handed device) and mounted new fire extinguisher in V-berth hanging locker. Low expectations were exceeded. Self-actualization was reached.


Crowning Achievements
09/12/2010, Pago Pago, American Samoa


September 11

Unsure what happened with awaited shipment, but all items were available for pickup this morning at 0900. Huh! Pretty soon, Post Office will be able to deliver mail and packages all over the U.S. as well.

Since business in Pago Pago was finished, might have struck toward Samoa this afternoon but for wayward crown dislodged by floss last evening. Sole practitioners in American Samoa are on call at the one hospital. After paying $10 to register as a patient (I have a card), spent all afternoon turning brain into mush watching Disney channel (gaps in laugh track might have provided clues to intelligent snippets had there been any) to eventually be informed that dentists only respond for emergencies. At 1705 caught late, last bus back to harbor's heady aroma with admonishment not to swallow or inhale the piece until arriving (or presumably somewhat thereafter) in Apia, which is reportedly knee deep in dentistry.

Fifteen hour sail to next destination requires weighing anchor late afternoon to arrive daylight Monday, so conscientious duty before then would involve utilizing newly arrived pieces for appropriate mends. Really diligent crew would also perform many previously bagged tasks. Although no such individuals are currently available, a smattering of such activity is not entirely out of the question with such as are.


Incensed Sense or None
09/11/2010, Pago Pago, American Samoa

Not Pago Harbor

September 10

After two days of ineffectual tinkering, returned Honda carburetor to more useful location following brute (that would be me) force (pliers) adjustment of throttle butterfly. Untested expectation that compromise lower speed/decibels will allow adequate output for charging is a hair shy of comprehensive.

American Samoa, like many countries, allows everyone costless entry, but charges (in this case $167) for departure, then kicks most out after limited time. Sneaking out is an injudicious gambit as neighboring countries (no doubt in collusion) will cane all aboard, put offenders in solitary confinement on bread and water for life and burn their boat to its waterline... or possibly some lesser chastisement, but not good in any case.

Jacksters cleared immigration today for Monday departure, no problem. My operation indicated departure tomorrow, Saturday, for which $20 overtime would be charged. Huh? So, would they send a refund for subsequent delay past weekend? Discretion stilled snide retort as fee was waived.

With the minor exceptions of marshaling interior of boat for seaway (OK, not so minor) and jerry jugging some diesel, tomorrow is available for diddling (not the naughty definition, Cal), so anticipate being thusly employed. Wish to leave afternoon for 75 NM overnight to Apia, but conditions (good wind, lower sea) may favor Sunday if apoplectic olfactory nerves can be provided sufficiently palliative inveiglement.


Phasers to Stun, Please
09/10/2010, Pago Pago, American Samoa

Not Anthem

September 9

Pago Pago will get up to 300 inches of rain this year, much of it in the last 48 hours. As this was a good day to stay in and read, spent all of it running around buying bits without which I could not do and surprisingly, as all desired items were found, won't have to. En passant, one additional ramification of moisture and humidity has been pervasive bouquet from cannery. Damage to sense of smell may be irreparable. Hold the tuna. Despite fondness for everything else here, will not regret leaving.

Seems counterintuitive that long pants and jackets are necessary at sea level this close to the equator, but night sailing is chilly. The one pair of blue jeans aboard are in shreds, so replacement was sought. Found, with great amazement, two pairs with 33 inch waists. Assume that low demand in Samoa for that size sent them to the discount store.

Also found two air-tight storage containers for recently purchased, family-sized box of powdered skim milk which, incidentally, was flabbergasted (is that a great word, or what!) to discover tastes good. Really. OK, you have to like non-fat and be exposed to sensory stimulation that would make a skunk burger appetizing, but still, it's impressive.

Regret to report that, with possible exception of induced unconsciousness, ingestion of alcohol in no way ameliorates loathsome and nauseating emanations saturating Pago Harbor. Roaring hangover would otherwise be serviceable trade- off.


Ponderous Pondering
09/08/2010, Pago Pago, American Samoa

Sadie Thompson Inn

September 8

This morning at Sadie Thompson's while enjoying a breakfast that, if eaten regularly, would overweight a sumo, reflected how few cruisers waddle and that my own devastatingly sleek, leonine physique would, if permanently kept ashore, more closely resemble a hippopotamus. Eating habits over the last twenty months have, so far with impunity, taken a drastic turn for the worse, now incorporating sausage, bacon, ice cream, hamburgers, fried anything and butter. Goals have been formulated, memos have been sent, but personal patterns like corporate cultures are unwieldy juggernauts.

Further musings included realization that one is never completely clean, dry or at rest. These pitfalls can be handled several ways, among them swallowing the hook (returning ashore), not minding the discomfort or never being completely sober (last two are not mutually exclusive and, indeed, can be complimentary). Cruisers tend not to be overly anal or punctilious (or sober).

These and other deep thoughts attended laundry duty at a nice, large, inexpensive laundromat within walking distance of dinghy dock. Washers were in the center with really cool, multi-function machines along the wall. Clean wet clothes could be put into them along with money and, when turned on, a low budget movie played on the front. Action was fast-paced, but plotting a little thin and, while nuanced, somewhat repetitive.

"Anything worth doing is worth doing to wretched excess." - Phil Bowden


That's It
09/08/2010, Pago Pago, American Samoa

Pago Harbor

September 7

OK, here it is, what the uncounted multitudes, the teeming masses, the thronging hordes have been longing for, lo these many months. No, not an end to these interminable messages, photos! Well, a few, anyway. More to follow, perhaps.

Thrashed about all day trying to fix frozen carburetor and locate undelivered boat parts shipment. Got nowhere, so have decided to expend less effort to achieve similar results here.


Scotching Work
09/07/2010, Pago Pago, American Samoa

Talisker and Floor

September 6

Labor Day, when labor doesn't, should be Slacker Day. In typical contrarian manner worked most of it on various projects such as removing rug backing from recently evicted, scuzzy floor coverings that had become one with cabin sole. Two types of adhesive solvent hardly made a dent, barely allowing toilsome scraping with plastic razor blades. After pine cleaner and lemon oil it looks so good may clean the rest... sometime.

East southeast wind in anchorage remains 20 to 25 with higher gusts, pleasing batteries and, due to mile and a half fetch, providing invigorating salt water shower during all dinghy excursions. Consequently enjoyed two types of refreshment by heading onshore to eat after Skyping with Liz. Sadie Thompson Inn was slacking, so had egg fooyong and rice at Chinese cafeteria - almost breakfast.

After months of parsimony with good scotch, newfound supply has engendered more fulsome enjoyment of its sublime quintessence. Expect liter and a half to survive rapaciousness for only two months instead of nineteen as did previous supply.

Continuation of leisurely housekeeping, with possible inclusion of laundry, to accompany more expansive social engagement tomorrow.


Disgust Politics
09/06/2010, Pago Pago, American Samoa

New Drain

September 5

Galley sink now has new drains advertised as stainless, but magnet says otherwise. No surprise that old ones rusted out as they were the same. Found unit for outboard sink with cool screw down basket. This provides a fix for aggravating shortcoming in design allowing ocean to overflow into pot locker on deep starboard tack. Previous routine required hanging down into lazarette to close through-hull ball valve which shut off both drains. Hope high, confidence somewhat less for no leaks.

In other news, carb cleaner has had no effect on stuck valve. Effort ongoing. Professional help in the offing.

Spent evening strengthening brain cell herd by culling weak members with margaritas and wine. Three of four single-handers in the anchorage had dinner on Imagine and discussed politics. Would have gone on to religion, but there wasn't enough wine.


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S/V Anthem
Who: Jack Warren, Janice Holmes
Port: Weeki Wachee, FL
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See profile for information on why this mess is being foisted upon an innocent world and, despite what is probably your better judgement, how to make contact.
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