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Anthem Adrift
Breaking Out
10/20/2011, Musket Cove at Malolo Lailai

Some Fish

18 October 2011

Four days since hopeful last message and finally have new, pre-2005 (huh?), working voltage regulator. Cost a fortune, but at least it's new (huh?). Exhaust parts have not yet left New Zealand. Honda remains a neglected box full of random bits. Valve handle, uncompleted, is being reconsidered. Love it when a plan comes together.

Therefore expect to throw fate to the wind and trust temporary exhaust jury-rig for departure tomorrow toward Malolo Lailai (Musket Cove), Mamanucas and possibly Robinson Crusoe Island farther south for a week cruise before returning here prior to departure for New Zealand end of month. What could possibly go wrong?

19 October 2011

In fact, nothing went wrong. How did that happen? Beautiful sail into anchorage at Musket Cove on Malolo Lailai. Met friends, had coffee, explored area, scheduled a dive, made dinner at home, played cribbage and went to bed at 2130. All in all an uneventful day, so why bother to mention? Suggestions will be accepted, but only the odd or quirky ones.

20 October 2011

Good to get back in the water, but dives were a bit lame. Some fish. Probably spoiled by Fakarava (as previously noted Cal, this is not naughty). Dive computer watch is a cornucopia of enlightenment... probably. Reading manuals is for sissies.

Jack

But Do It Work?
10/14/2011, Port Denarau Marina near Nadi

Find Anthem Near Mega-Yacht "Georgia"

13 October 2011

After Sunday and Fiji Day Monday, began tedious efforts to heal boat. Exhaust parts ostensibly en route from New Zealand. Decision on voltage regulator to be made AM. Honda generator to begin fourth day of diagnostic review. And this little piggy bank cried wee, wee, wee all the way home. If life were easy, everybody would want to do it.

Hoping to bail out of here coming Monday or Tuesday toward Mamanucas and Musket Cove for diving and anything else, anything at all.

14 October 2011

Regulator to possibly show up this afternoon (cannibalized from new boat for replacement later). Honda is under advanced deconstruction. Broken ball valve handle (was this ever mentioned?) is in final stage of fabrication.

After three trips in as many days to Nadi (pronounced Nandi - d is nd, b is mb, g is ng, q is ngg (??), c is th and the English did that for them(??)) and one time on to Lautoka in under-sprung buses over truly miserable roads, Jan & I are concerned about scoliosis, hemorrhoids and advanced shell shock. See example on Youtube.

Have attempted without success to find spark plug feeler gauge in several auto parts stores (an inordinate number exist in Nadi). Was finally told by a very East Indian salesman that "when we need to adjust the gap we just buy a new one". Ah, that would probably work.

Jack

Salt and Battery
10/12/2011, Nanuya-Sewa

Blue Lagoon at Nanuya-Sewa

11 October 2011

OK, after 7 days good times are over for those unlucky enough to have again stumbled upon this blather. No responsibility will be accepted in consequence of further excursion into this mess.

As last we communicated life had taken a turn for better. This was an illusion, a scurrilous trick and a cruel hoax.

Arrival in Blue Lagoon, Nanuya-Sewa anchorage, was enlivened by smoke billowing from bilge just before anchor drop (the 3rd, and resultantly, last attempt). Location having thus been clearly established, we grasped the only tenable choice and began studiously assimilating mass quantities of adult beverages. This option, while perfectly reasonable and necessary at the time, was significantly less optimal the following morning as ameliorative action was adjudged appropriate.

Details are disagreeable and boring, but suffice to say that connector and connectee at exhaust manifold have been humbled of their former pretensions. Without wind (KISS), sun (solar panels), Honda generator or engine, battery charging was undermined... ummm, eradicated.

First jury-rig would have worked but for previously mentioned connectee. Second jury-rig, with JB Weld (non-high temp), needed cure time so we sailed off anchor to begin overnight sail to Port Denarau Marina for shore power and (potential) repair. Two hour, 30 knot, midnight squall (after heaving to with only full main to avoid narrow reef passage in darkness) enlivened that experience with sea water twice filling cockpit, but next morning engine repair allowed desired arrival before dark.

This good news was somewhat dampened by both alternator regulator and subsequently emergency regulator dying. Unable to get on dock until morning we anchored nearby to the annoyance of abused batteries.

Jack

Sort and Savour
10/04/2011, Sawa-I-Lau, Yasawa Group

Sawa-i-Lau Beach

3 October 2011

Love it when a plan comes together. Rain on Vanua Levu for preponderance of day was cast off with mud from anchor retrieval for beautiful starry passage. Excellent speed achieved with 18 to 20 knot quartering wind and 1 meter sea carrying us blissfully to south Yasawa, necessitated heaving-to until daylight so to see reefage upon entry. Subsequent nano nap extended into afternoon.

4 October 2011

Sawa-i-Lau. It's small; it's tall. All limestone; has caverns. Cool! Any noise in Spirit Cave, section that requires underwater swim, sounds like they're coming to get you. More coolerest! Drift snorkeled through nearby pass, on and off several beaches after lunch. Consternation resulting from severe pruning later ameliorated with previously alluded to compound incorporating tonic and lime (not to be confused with also previously mentioned stone).

Dinner at Joe's (village chief's spokesman who took our sevusevu and wife Alise (sp? WAG)) with young couple from Sudden Stops Necessary (no, haven't asked yet). Partook of local fish and veggies including home-made cassava bread. Friendly folks plus two of three kids and a cousin. Had already donated diesel to village generator, may take more. Next stop 10 NM to Blue Lagoon, reputed popular haven for cruisers and other unsavory sorts.

Jack

Legitimate Lethargy and Saintly Sinning
10/01/2011, Coconut Point, Vanua Levu

Nabouwalu Anchorage

1 October 2011

Should have done sevusevu last night, no need today. Finally found deaf, 93 year old lady chief (Buli Ravi Ravi) of Nambouwalu who seemed pleased, but was a chore finding. All involved were surprised and slightly bemused. What's a mother to do. At least divested of one $10 kava bundle, six to go. If in the boonies, fine, but, as prepared kava powder can be purchased cheaper at market, no idea what's done with them in a big village.

2 October 2011

Left New Zealand in August. How is it October? Third of a month to get here, but still... Understand Fiji occasionally has drought. No worrys this year. Yasawas are reputed drier. Have rejected plan to hold breath.

SuAn, enamored of and surprised by yesterday's wind, kept trucking by Coconut Pt. and out adjacent pass to cross Bligh Water last night toward Blue Lagoon, south end of Nacula Island. Wind, of course, died after dark. Having eschewed Bua Bay, west side of Vanua Levu, we will pass out (figure of speech) similarly tonight for Monday morning anchorage south end of Yasawa Island. Limestone caves and snorkeling are hopefully (to clarify, Jan & I, rather than limestone caves, which seldom engage in such feelings, are full of hope) in the offing. Meanwhile, we engage in righteous, preparatory sloth.

Jack

Declining Gingerly
09/30/2011, Navatu Bay, Vanua Levu

Friendly Navatu Villagers

29 September 2011

As Savusavu forecast is dismal, have decided to believe heavy rain and no wind next few days will eventuate (huh?), so this barge is floating west manana for more favorable milieu. Additionally, dearth of faintest zephyr nights has invigorated normally apathetic mosquito community with renewed enthusiasm.

Waitui Marina's $10 Fiji night introduced new taste sensations and effervescent tums that, given stagnancy (real word?) of atmosphere, produced unique and interesting ambiance. Spicy Indian for lunch possible contributor to additional distinctive aura.

30 September 2011

As weather sages seldom are, leaving port with rainy, windless forecast resulted in sunshine and breeze for delightful sail to tonight's anchorage. Enveloping quietude minimally interrupted by giggling yard apes from nearby, but unseen, village. Scary silence made tolerable by tonic and lime mixed with magical substance labeled "Tanqueray". Plan to duck sevusevu by sneaking off AM for Coconut Bay, next stop and site of possible reconnect with new German friends, Lutz & Gabi on SuAn, was potentially thwarted by friendly villagers boating by. Their disappointment insufficient to overcome pervading inertia.

Jack

Scrum, Maul or Ruck?
09/28/2011, Savusavu, Vanua Levu, Fiji

Savusavu Sunrise (as far as you know)

27 September 2011

Rugby is just enough like NFL football to make it completely incomprehensible. A try never fails. Anyway, last night's games, enjoyed (relative term) with couples from Germany and from Seattle (wife was originally Canadian - what's with all these US/Canadian couples anyway?) were good even though Canada drew with Japan and US was almost, but not quite, humiliated by Italy 27 - 10.

Having two beautiful mornings in a row almost makes life worth living... OK, taking your own sailboat through the South Pacific with an enthusiastic partner doesn't suck either, but good weather doesn't hurt.

Useful impending occupation includes stop at butcher as fresh meat ship arrives today and replenishment of rapidly evaporating wine supply.

- Later

Meated and wined, but fickle gods dampened effusive enthusiasm as afternoon subject to periodic deluges. No evidence of ark construction at present, but options remain open. Expect departure for drier (triumph of hope over experience?) side of Viti Levu, through Bligh Water (yes, named after that Bounty guy) Saturday.

Jack

Fowl Ball
09/26/2011, Savusavu, Vanua Levu, Fiji

Savusavu Sunset

26 September 2011

Senescent windings in shower sump pump talked the talk, but weren't walking. Loss of mojo discovered only after laborious clearing of hoses, then eventually installing spare pump. Body sludge again bespoils (real word, probably) pristine ecology of Savusavu.

Being awakened from a dead sleep by full volume doodle-doing, one wonders if roosters really expect to get lucky at 3 AM. Suspect sleeping hens are not so frisky around then, but perhaps high achieving chooks are trying to get a jump (figure of speech) on dawn to get a leg up (figure of speech) on sleep-in cocks (figure of speech).

Exciting World Rugby Cup afternoon/evening awaits as Canada to beat Japan for quarter-final berth and US fans fondly recall trouncing of Russia several days ago to avoid noticing likely drubbing by Italy. Personal vexation to be ameliorated by moderate assimilation of mind altering, grape derived substance.

Jack

Sump'n Special
09/25/2011, Savusavu, Vanua Levu, Fiji

Copra Shed

25 September 2011

Despite logic and standard dart board quesses from best climatologists on the planet, had 18 - 20 knot quartering breeze for beautiful sleigh ride from lovely and interesting Koro Island into Savusavu on the south coast of Vanua Levu. Moored to a buoy off Copra Shed Marina, supposed center of cruiser activity in these parts. Except for dreary weather it appears to be lovely and meets two fundamental criteria for a great anchorage, fast internet and breakfast. If there's also ice cream may stay awhile.

26 September 2011

Following somewhat slow and gentle morning aboard, Jan performed official clear in duties as I was distracted (attention span of a three year old) by cruisers from US & Italy prior to highly desirable and successful search for brekky complete with critical caffeinated beverage. No familiar boats were sighted on subsequent dinghy tour up the creek (no, not that one, plus we have a paddle) so returned home for eagerly anticipated dismantling of clogged shower sump hose. Did anyone mention that Jan has about four feet of beautiful, occasionally red (depends on light) hair? Minimum reflection on upcoming fun induced decision to first take nano-nap after conveying this blabber to an incredulous world.

Jack

Expansive Hospitality
09/24/2011, Koro Island

Church in Nabuna

24 September 2011

Most SCUBA divers put on a mask then stick a rubber thingy in their mouths from which issues compressed air from a big cylinder with maybe over 3000 psi. Strategically engineered valves and diaphragms reduce this so to prevent flying bits of said users as they blow up like Shamu (he's dead now, right?). Jan, who several years ago face-planted over her bike bars onto a parking lot, in order to reduce pressure on rebuilt teeth, just bought a full-face mask. After what has seemed forever for both we got seawater in all our various crevices to test that and new tanks. Good to go on real dive which is anticipated anon.

Enjoyed lovely visit, escorted by Tevita (David) Bolabola (mbola mbola), with Nabuna (Nambuna) villagers who were very gracious and gave us pawpaw, eggplant, breadfruit, taro (surprisingly good, but do NOT eat it as poi) and some other more curious fruits and/or vegetables. He was most helpful and wanted us to help him sell some property on Koro. Beautiful island. Think about it, OK?

Late departure to arrive Savusavu anytime before dark tomorrow as can't check into port until Monday morning. No rush as breakfast buffet not until Wednesday. Entire life currently focused on all-you-can-eat spread at Seaview Restaurant in Hidden Paradise Guest House even though don't want to eat all I can. It's a disease.

Jack

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S/V Anthem
Who: Jack Warren, Janice Holmes
Port: Weeki Wachee, FL
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