Thursday 18 September 2014

In a manner typical of its mischievous nature, weather turned on us about 2200. With aid of a strong sideways current, wind, building to 25 apparent and veering, forced us onto a 50 degree close reach in order to lay destination. Ensuing fun-filled 6 hours until gaining the lee of Niue were enlivened by eyeball rattling motion and great quantities of flying water, a significant portion of which entered the cockpit as well as aft head and cabin sole via a forgotten, open portlight. Noise and shivering in the surprising chill limited sounds of whimpering.

Reference previous entry, arrival hostilities were averted when a mooring was available. Of course, trading broadsides, grappling alongside and leaping across to hack one's way through a bloody pile of bodies to capture the opposing captain is always great fun, but think I'm more in the mood for wenching and carousing this time or, given Jan's understandable lack of enthusiasm for wenching, perhaps we'll just chill out and explore, enlivened by just a smattering of carousing.

Since the entirety of Niue is a giant rock of coral limestone uplifted in two geological episodes so to resemble a layer cake 20 meters and 60 meters above sea level (a 3rd layer is still forming underwater) the only way ashore is at a reef break near Alofi, the capitol and main center, using a crane to raise one's dinghy onto a quay lest it be bashed to splinters against the rocks. Sound enticing? Well actually it is. Besides the adventure of a unique landing, the place is littered with cool caves and grottos including underwater canyons, a chimney and thousands of poisonous sea snakes. The kraits are not really dangerous due itty, bitty mouths and anyway haven't the slightest interest in divers unless you grab them. In this case they often just wiggle through your hand, but may turn around to see what's happening. I've usually considered it an appropriate time to let go as this may be the one with freakishly large teeth. If that doesn't do it for you, surrounding waters are usually lousy with humpback whales this time of year. They're way big as you may have heard and in the evenings sometimes come right into the mooring field. They have bad breath.

Jack