We spent 2 nights in a sheltered cove in Paradise Harbour where we could anchor without the need for shorelines for the first time in Antarctica. Less than a mile away a fantastic glacier tumbled down a steep mountainside and we could hear a constant thundering and roaring, as if the ice was alive. Much brash ice accumulated outside the bay overnight and when we went out exploring in the dinghy we came across a 'new' type of ice: small, jagged pieces of brash ice were welded together with sea ice like peanut brittle and floated in broad but thin slabs upon the surface. The weather forecast is showing the makings of a possible gap to cross the Drake Passage in a few days time and although we are reluctant to leave, we can feel the changing season in the air and know it is time to go. So today we headed north to the Melchior Islands, which will be our departure point. Very aware that this is our last day in Antarctica we took our time and tried to absorb every detail, soaking up the views and ice bergs and wildlife to remember forever. And it was indeed a memorable day. Perfect reflections of the ever impressive scenery stretched in all directions; great blue bergs in interesting shapes gathered off every point; big groups of penguins congregated in the water, surfacing as one and causing the sea to boil and churn as a hundred black and white heads popped up; more stood on the ice, always seeming to enjoy srambling up a steep slope that goes nowhere; seals, too were hauled out and lay motionless on the ice as we passed by unnoticed. About half way on our route we came across a pair of Humpback whales drifting like logs on the surface. Not expecting a repeat of our previous Humpback encounter, but ever hopeful, we stopped a few hundred yards away and drifted with them. They blew softly and sank beneath the surface and a few moments later came up just yards from the stern with booming blows and a shower of spray. A third whale soon joined them and there followed 2 hours of incredible interaction with these wonderful creatures as they swam and dove and spyhopped around the boat, often within a few metres. It was as if we were engaged in an elegant dance together and we were yet again awed by the close proximity of such magnificent animals and delighted that they seemed to be so interested in us. Our path has been intertwined with that of "Wanderer III" for the past few days and as they were not far behind us we shared this remarkable encounter with Thies and Kiki (see photo). It was another incredible meeting with whales and we particularly noticed their size and power compared to the Minke whale a few days ago. We reached Melchior on a real high and tied up in a small, rocky cove in a channel between isalnds domed with ice. The next few days will be spent preparing to cross the Drake Passage...