Returning to Flounder Island 2 days ago was almost like revisiting an old friend as we had stopped there on the way south so were familiar with the approach and knew exactly where to find the best rocks to tie up to. It had been a day of brilliant sunshine with the ever spectacular scenery revealed in all its glory. Huge bergs all along the 65 mile route fascinated us with their wonderful shapes and there were a lot of them aground near the entrance to the anchorage. We were treated to a memorable sunset behind the distant mountains and sat up on the rocks above the bay to enjoy it - a fitting farewell to the rugged and unique wilderness south of 66S. The next morning we awoke to a blizzard outside and the snow continued all day, soon covering the boat and the rocks with a layer of white (see photo). The forecast strong NE wind did not materialise but a short spell of NW wind blew several large bergs across the entrance to the bay yesterday so for now we are blocked inside and quite happy to be here. The ice is doing us a favour as it prevents all the smaller brash ice from entering the bay and we are protected in a pool of calm, clear water. The bergs are always moving and breaking up so as soon as the wind changes they will clear out and we will continue moving back up north....
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Comments [4]
With a forecast of SW wind at 10 -15 knots we had high hopes of exploring Detaille Island over several days but the weather down here is never predictable and on the night of our arrival the wind came through at 30 - 35 knots from the SE and blew a near gale for 36 hours. Although the bay we were in was protected from ice there was little shelter from the force of the wind which, due to "Wandering Albatross" being tied 4 ways, was directly on the beam. Things were quite wild and uncomfortable on board and launching the dinghy in those winds is a tricky undertaking. But the sun shone the entire time and when we did get ashore the island proved to be a magical place. Young Weddell seals were hauled out all over the expanses of snow and they are far more photogenic than either the Crabeater or Leopard seals, with pale markings against a darker pelage and big, trusting eyes. A thriving colony of Adelie penguins dominated the southern half of the island and the chicks were already fledging into adult plummage. Some were very advanced and had just small patches of fluffy down left, often on the top of their heads which made them look as if they had a crazy hair-do! There was an abandoned hut near our anchorage where a British unit was once stationed. It remains in good condition and was both fascinating and somehow nostalgic to look around. It seemed frozen in time, as if the men had just popped out, with jackets still hanging on pegs, boots lined up on shelves, tools at the door and cupboards full of porridge oats and tinned mince, the labels quaintly old-fashioned. Telegrams lying on one of the bunks were dated in the late 1950's and it is probable that the hut has not been used regularly since then. We could easily have spent longer here but another NE gale is forecast in the near future which will fill our bay with ice. So today we made use of the last of the southerly winds to sail north back to Flounder Island, 65 miles away and the closest secure anchorage....
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The ice cleared out of the anchorage at Flounder Island last night and we got going this morning at 4 A.M. with a very light northerly breeze under grey skies. Our route took us between many small islands where countless massive bergs had grounded in the shallower water, sometimes making it hard to even identify the islands. We had to pick a way around the bergs and in many places push through bands of brash ice. There was a sense of being in a true wilderness where the raw power of nature dominates all and we were aware of how alone we are down here - a good and humbling feeling. A stretch of open water followed where the mist rolled in and for a short time we could see neither land nor bergs. Then, as if we had crossed some invisible line, the curtain of cloud drew back and ahead bright sunshine bathed the mountains in golden light. Beautiful bergs in every form imaginable drifted in the navy blue sea - we saw a fairy castle complete with turrets and arched entrance, a sleeping dinosaur, a perfect swan, a dragon's ridged spine and if possible the scenery was more awe inspiring than ever. At 66 33' S we crossed the Antarctic Circle, a thrilling achievement - it has been an incredible and challenging adventure getting here. Our destination was Detaille Island, a tiny mound of rock cradled in a horseshoe of majestic mountains created between Adelaide Island and the Antarctic Peninsula. There was a lot of ice around the island with numerous bergs aground but once we had negotiated our way into a bay on the north of the island we found it was clear of ice. It took some time to get tied up properly as there were few suitable rocks on shore, but in the end it was done. We sat out in the cockpit, watching as last light turned the icecap a marvellous shade of pink and appreciating the special moment of arriving at our furthest south....
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