Yesterday we sailed north to the Pitt Islands where we negotiated our way into a sheltered cove through a series of channels between small islands. This island group is on the ocean side of the Grandidier Channel about 30 miles from the Antarctic Peninsula and consists of many low, snow-domed islets, quite different from the mountainous scenery of the mainland. The highlight of the last few days has been spending much time with Adelie Penguins (see photo). First at our previous anchorage and today here we have spent many hours sitting amongst the birds. Most of the chicks are partially fledged but still sport tufts of fluff on their heads and backs. They are almost as big as the adults now and we saw a number of them make a tentative foray into the water. It is clear from their behaviour that they are experimenting and testing themselves, learning how to swim and it is fantastic to watch their uncertain encounters with the sea. They hover at the edge, sticking their heads under the surface or wading into the shallows for a trial submersion. You sense their inquisitiveness and surprise as some rush out again at once, shaking themselves and flapping their flippers. Others go straight in and we saw one trying to dive under with its head down and orange feet kicking in the air - it didn't quite have the hang of buoyancy control yet! Feeding chases happen all around, with the chicks pursuing the adults at high speed across the rocks before they receive a meal. Already there is a feeling that the season is winding down and a few adults have begun moulting, a process they go through to replace their feathers every year at the end of the breeding season.
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Returning to Flounder Island 2 days ago was almost like revisiting an old friend as we had stopped there on the way south so were familiar with the approach and knew exactly where to find the best rocks to tie up to. It had been a day of brilliant sunshine with the ever spectacular scenery revealed in all its glory. Huge bergs all along the 65 mile route fascinated us with their wonderful shapes and there were a lot of them aground near the entrance to the anchorage. We were treated to a memorable sunset behind the distant mountains and sat up on the rocks above the bay to enjoy it - a fitting farewell to the rugged and unique wilderness south of 66S. The next morning we awoke to a blizzard outside and the snow continued all day, soon covering the boat and the rocks with a layer of white (see photo). The forecast strong NE wind did not materialise but a short spell of NW wind blew several large bergs across the entrance to the bay yesterday so for now we are blocked inside and quite happy to be here. The ice is doing us a favour as it prevents all the smaller brash ice from entering the bay and we are protected in a pool of calm, clear water. The bergs are always moving and breaking up so as soon as the wind changes they will clear out and we will continue moving back up north....
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With a forecast of SW wind at 10 -15 knots we had high hopes of exploring Detaille Island over several days but the weather down here is never predictable and on the night of our arrival the wind came through at 30 - 35 knots from the SE and blew a near gale for 36 hours. Although the bay we were in was protected from ice there was little shelter from the force of the wind which, due to "Wandering Albatross" being tied 4 ways, was directly on the beam. Things were quite wild and uncomfortable on board and launching the dinghy in those winds is a tricky undertaking. But the sun shone the entire time and when we did get ashore the island proved to be a magical place. Young Weddell seals were hauled out all over the expanses of snow and they are far more photogenic than either the Crabeater or Leopard seals, with pale markings against a darker pelage and big, trusting eyes. A thriving colony of Adelie penguins dominated the southern half of the island and the chicks were already fledging into adult plummage. Some were very advanced and had just small patches of fluffy down left, often on the top of their heads which made them look as if they had a crazy hair-do! There was an abandoned hut near our anchorage where a British unit was once stationed. It remains in good condition and was both fascinating and somehow nostalgic to look around. It seemed frozen in time, as if the men had just popped out, with jackets still hanging on pegs, boots lined up on shelves, tools at the door and cupboards full of porridge oats and tinned mince, the labels quaintly old-fashioned. Telegrams lying on one of the bunks were dated in the late 1950's and it is probable that the hut has not been used regularly since then. We could easily have spent longer here but another NE gale is forecast in the near future which will fill our bay with ice. So today we made use of the last of the southerly winds to sail north back to Flounder Island, 65 miles away and the closest secure anchorage....
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