For the last few days we have been enjoying the spectacular scenery at the southern end of the Le Maire channel from a secure mooring spot. Tied up amongst numerous rocks and skerries that lie between Hovgaard and Pleneau islands (see photo) we have been treated to 2 days of perfect weather. A big rookery of Gentoo penguins nearby has enticed us to sit for hours and we have been observing the next phase of the breeding cycle. Although there are still a few young chicks to be seen, most are almost fully fledged and full of curiosity. The feeding chases have taken on a new intensity and often the adults lead the chicks all the way to the water's edge and plunge in. This seems to be part of a training process to teach the chicks where to find food, as the adults emerge from the water within moments to feed the waiting chick. Older chicks sometimes follow the parent into the water at a run, only to halt in surprise and stand staring at the sea. Many adult birds now look skinny compared to their sleek, plump chicks, showing what a toll the raising of the young penguins takes on them. Once they part from the chicks they will spend some time at sea feeding themsleves before returning to molt. During the weeks of molting they cannot enter the water as their specially designed feathers provide insulation and waterproofing and without them they would not survive. All their energy is spent growing a new set of feathers as fast as possible, a process that normally takes about 3 weeks.
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En route between the Pitt Islands and Hovgaard Island yesterday we had the most fantastic encounter with a pair of Humpback whales. It was a windless day and we were motoring in flat calm conditions when we saw the blows of whales about half a mile away. We throttled back, as we always do, and drifted to see if they would come any closer. For a few minutes there was no sign of them, then they surfaced right next to the boat, blowing with a resonant booming noise and showering us with spray. They were literally a few metres away and for the next 1 1/2 hours they played with the boat, swimming beneath us, alongside us and all around us, lifting their tails high in the air as they dove (see photo). They were close enough for us to have a clear view of the tubercles (raised bumps) on their heads and lower jaws and to marvel at the length of their flippers, which are about a third of their +/- 15m body length. Humpbacks are well known for their curiosity and we later heard that this year has been a very good year for krill, the whales' primary food source, so they are full and have time to invesitgate boats. We have never had such an amazing meeting with whales and needless to say we were thrilled. We felt honoured that they chose to stay with us for so long and it was a deeply moving experience as we felt we were almost able to communicate with them.
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Yesterday we sailed north to the Pitt Islands where we negotiated our way into a sheltered cove through a series of channels between small islands. This island group is on the ocean side of the Grandidier Channel about 30 miles from the Antarctic Peninsula and consists of many low, snow-domed islets, quite different from the mountainous scenery of the mainland. The highlight of the last few days has been spending much time with Adelie Penguins (see photo). First at our previous anchorage and today here we have spent many hours sitting amongst the birds. Most of the chicks are partially fledged but still sport tufts of fluff on their heads and backs. They are almost as big as the adults now and we saw a number of them make a tentative foray into the water. It is clear from their behaviour that they are experimenting and testing themselves, learning how to swim and it is fantastic to watch their uncertain encounters with the sea. They hover at the edge, sticking their heads under the surface or wading into the shallows for a trial submersion. You sense their inquisitiveness and surprise as some rush out again at once, shaking themselves and flapping their flippers. Others go straight in and we saw one trying to dive under with its head down and orange feet kicking in the air - it didn't quite have the hang of buoyancy control yet! Feeding chases happen all around, with the chicks pursuing the adults at high speed across the rocks before they receive a meal. Already there is a feeling that the season is winding down and a few adults have begun moulting, a process they go through to replace their feathers every year at the end of the breeding season.
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