We spent 2 nights in a sheltered cove in Paradise Harbour where we could anchor without the need for shorelines for the first time in Antarctica. Less than a mile away a fantastic glacier tumbled down a steep mountainside and we could hear a constant thundering and roaring, as if the ice was alive. Much brash ice accumulated outside the bay overnight and when we went out exploring in the dinghy we came across a 'new' type of ice: small, jagged pieces of brash ice were welded together with sea ice like peanut brittle and floated in broad but thin slabs upon the surface. The weather forecast is showing the makings of a possible gap to cross the Drake Passage in a few days time and although we are reluctant to leave, we can feel the changing season in the air and know it is time to go. So today we headed north to the Melchior Islands, which will be our departure point. Very aware that this is our last day in Antarctica we took our time and tried to absorb every detail, soaking up the views and ice bergs and wildlife to remember forever. And it was indeed a memorable day. Perfect reflections of the ever impressive scenery stretched in all directions; great blue bergs in interesting shapes gathered off every point; big groups of penguins congregated in the water, surfacing as one and causing the sea to boil and churn as a hundred black and white heads popped up; more stood on the ice, always seeming to enjoy srambling up a steep slope that goes nowhere; seals, too were hauled out and lay motionless on the ice as we passed by unnoticed. About half way on our route we came across a pair of Humpback whales drifting like logs on the surface. Not expecting a repeat of our previous Humpback encounter, but ever hopeful, we stopped a few hundred yards away and drifted with them. They blew softly and sank beneath the surface and a few moments later came up just yards from the stern with booming blows and a shower of spray. A third whale soon joined them and there followed 2 hours of incredible interaction with these wonderful creatures as they swam and dove and spyhopped around the boat, often within a few metres. It was as if we were engaged in an elegant dance together and we were yet again awed by the close proximity of such magnificent animals and delighted that they seemed to be so interested in us. Our path has been intertwined with that of "Wanderer III" for the past few days and as they were not far behind us we shared this remarkable encounter with Thies and Kiki (see photo). It was another incredible meeting with whales and we particularly noticed their size and power compared to the Minke whale a few days ago. We reached Melchior on a real high and tied up in a small, rocky cove in a channel between isalnds domed with ice. The next few days will be spent preparing to cross the Drake Passage...
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On a fantastic sunny day we set off up the Neumayer Channel, heading for Paradise Harbour on the mainland coast. We passed through this channel on the way south on a grey, misty day and now we had the chance to appreciate its true grandeur - soaring mountains, enormous glaciers and spectacular views up and down its length. Emerging at the north end we found there was about 15 knots of NE blowing and we were able to sail for a couple of hours, conserving a few more litres of valuable diesel. By the time we entered Paradise Harbour there was not a breath of wind and with the sun behind us we were treated to awe inspriring scenery, reflected mirror perfect in a motionless sea. We were motoring slowly, absorbing the sheer beauty and wildness, when an Antarctic Minke Whale surfaced just ahead of us and we throttled back in the hopes that we might get a better view. Although we have seen many Minkes in the last few weeks, the usual sighting is a brief glimpse of the dorsal fin as it slices the surface, then the whale is gone. So we were astounded when this whale approached the boat and played with us for over an hour. It was the most incredible and special encounter, an almost spiritual experience that seems impossible to describe. The whale was swimming so close to the boat at times that it appeared to be rubbing against the hull. Rolling onto its side as it passed alongside it stared up at us with an all-knowing eye and we stared back in wonder, lying on the deck just feet away. We felt an intimate rapport with this magnificent, gentle creature and it genuinely seemed to be interacting with us. On many occasions it spyhopped right beside us (see photo) thrusting its pointed head high up towards the rail, so close we could have reached out and touched it. We even had a close up view of coarse, short whiskers on the tip of its upper jaw. Every time it blew we were showered with spray and when it slid beneath the boat we got a great impression of its sleek and streamlined shape. The Antarctic Minke feeds mainly on krill, lunging into concentrations of prey and gulping great mouthfuls. It is thought that a single calf is born every one to two years. It is beyond belief that anyone could bear to harm such a wonderful creature but sadly Japan continues to hunt Antarctic Minkes, killing several hundred each year.
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We are making our way slowly north with the intention of looking for a weather gap to cross the Drake Passage around the end of February. Yesterday we sailed the 25 miles back to Dorian bay, one of our favourite stops on the way down, and are sharing the protected anchorage with Thies and Kicki on "Wanderer III". There is a definite change in the air as the summer rapidly draws to a close - the sun is lower in the sky and where we had almost constant daylight just a month ago there are now 6 hours of total darkness. It was exciting to see stars for the first time in ages and to discover the Southern Cross almost directly overhead. Precipitaion falls now as snow rather than rain and it is getting much colder - in the early morning the bay has a thin skin of newly formed sea ice across the surface. The dynamics in the large Gentoo Rookery here have also changed and there are very few penguins left in the nesting areas on the rocky hillocks. Most chicks are now fully fledged juveniles and they congregate in large numbers along the shore line, practising their swimming and waiting for the right moment to take to sea. They will spend several years as ocean nomads before returning to breed themselves. If anything they are more fascinating to watch than ever and incredibly inquisitive. We found that just sitting still on a rock arouses their curiosity and they advance in twos and threes to investigate. Singing and whistling interests them further and they waddle to within a few inches, peering at us (see photo) while the bravest ones make an explratory peck at boots or fingers. There is something very special about coming eye to eye with a wild creature when it can choose to stay or go. This will probably be our last intimate meeting with penguins in Antarctica and we are making the most of every minute....
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