Our weather window materialised earlier than expected and we are now well on our way back across the Drake Passage. We have a steady 20 knots of wind from the SSW and are flying along in moderate seas - perfect conditions for "Wandering Albatross". Conditions are forecast to remain much the same for the next day or two and as we should make landfall sometime tomorrow it seems that the Drake has been kind to us. We left the Melchior Islands in heavy snow on the morning of the 26th after managing to prepare the boat for the passage in one busy day. Amongst other things we had to put our wind steering system back on the transom, collect about 100 L of water from a nearby stream of melting ice, check over the rig, stow everything securely, bake bread and prepare some underway meals, not to mention sharing cups of tea and slices of cake with Thies & Kicki on "Wanderer III"! As we motored slowly out of the channel and turned into the wind to hoist the mainsail a pair of Humpback whales surfaced a few hundred yards away and then approached the boat. To our delight they blew and dove and spyhopped around us at close quarters (see photo) and then swam near us as we reluctantly turned north, almost as if they were bidding us farewell. It was a perfect send off and as the smooth snow domes of the islands were swallowed in the driving snow behind us we vowed we would return one day to this magical, untouched wilderness at the bottom of the world. The next day was very calm and sunny and it seemed as if whichever direction you looked there was the high, bushy blow of a spouting whale, some near, some far and several passing close off the bow or surfacing at the stern. All appeared to be swimming slowly at the surface and heading in a generally northerly direction. It was a remarkable sight and we surmised that this must be Humpbacks beginning their long migration north to breeding grounds in tropical waters. Humpbacks that feed in the waters off the Antarctic Peninsula have been recorded breeding off the coast of Costa Rica, a straight line distance of at least 4500 miles and the longest confirmed migration of any individual mammal. On this incredible journey the whales average only one mile per hour as they rest and socialise frequently. We felt very lucky to have witnessed this moment and it was nice to think that we were leaving Antarctica at the same time as these special whales...
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We spent 2 nights in a sheltered cove in Paradise Harbour where we could anchor without the need for shorelines for the first time in Antarctica. Less than a mile away a fantastic glacier tumbled down a steep mountainside and we could hear a constant thundering and roaring, as if the ice was alive. Much brash ice accumulated outside the bay overnight and when we went out exploring in the dinghy we came across a 'new' type of ice: small, jagged pieces of brash ice were welded together with sea ice like peanut brittle and floated in broad but thin slabs upon the surface. The weather forecast is showing the makings of a possible gap to cross the Drake Passage in a few days time and although we are reluctant to leave, we can feel the changing season in the air and know it is time to go. So today we headed north to the Melchior Islands, which will be our departure point. Very aware that this is our last day in Antarctica we took our time and tried to absorb every detail, soaking up the views and ice bergs and wildlife to remember forever. And it was indeed a memorable day. Perfect reflections of the ever impressive scenery stretched in all directions; great blue bergs in interesting shapes gathered off every point; big groups of penguins congregated in the water, surfacing as one and causing the sea to boil and churn as a hundred black and white heads popped up; more stood on the ice, always seeming to enjoy srambling up a steep slope that goes nowhere; seals, too were hauled out and lay motionless on the ice as we passed by unnoticed. About half way on our route we came across a pair of Humpback whales drifting like logs on the surface. Not expecting a repeat of our previous Humpback encounter, but ever hopeful, we stopped a few hundred yards away and drifted with them. They blew softly and sank beneath the surface and a few moments later came up just yards from the stern with booming blows and a shower of spray. A third whale soon joined them and there followed 2 hours of incredible interaction with these wonderful creatures as they swam and dove and spyhopped around the boat, often within a few metres. It was as if we were engaged in an elegant dance together and we were yet again awed by the close proximity of such magnificent animals and delighted that they seemed to be so interested in us. Our path has been intertwined with that of "Wanderer III" for the past few days and as they were not far behind us we shared this remarkable encounter with Thies and Kiki (see photo). It was another incredible meeting with whales and we particularly noticed their size and power compared to the Minke whale a few days ago. We reached Melchior on a real high and tied up in a small, rocky cove in a channel between isalnds domed with ice. The next few days will be spent preparing to cross the Drake Passage...
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On a fantastic sunny day we set off up the Neumayer Channel, heading for Paradise Harbour on the mainland coast. We passed through this channel on the way south on a grey, misty day and now we had the chance to appreciate its true grandeur - soaring mountains, enormous glaciers and spectacular views up and down its length. Emerging at the north end we found there was about 15 knots of NE blowing and we were able to sail for a couple of hours, conserving a few more litres of valuable diesel. By the time we entered Paradise Harbour there was not a breath of wind and with the sun behind us we were treated to awe inspriring scenery, reflected mirror perfect in a motionless sea. We were motoring slowly, absorbing the sheer beauty and wildness, when an Antarctic Minke Whale surfaced just ahead of us and we throttled back in the hopes that we might get a better view. Although we have seen many Minkes in the last few weeks, the usual sighting is a brief glimpse of the dorsal fin as it slices the surface, then the whale is gone. So we were astounded when this whale approached the boat and played with us for over an hour. It was the most incredible and special encounter, an almost spiritual experience that seems impossible to describe. The whale was swimming so close to the boat at times that it appeared to be rubbing against the hull. Rolling onto its side as it passed alongside it stared up at us with an all-knowing eye and we stared back in wonder, lying on the deck just feet away. We felt an intimate rapport with this magnificent, gentle creature and it genuinely seemed to be interacting with us. On many occasions it spyhopped right beside us (see photo) thrusting its pointed head high up towards the rail, so close we could have reached out and touched it. We even had a close up view of coarse, short whiskers on the tip of its upper jaw. Every time it blew we were showered with spray and when it slid beneath the boat we got a great impression of its sleek and streamlined shape. The Antarctic Minke feeds mainly on krill, lunging into concentrations of prey and gulping great mouthfuls. It is thought that a single calf is born every one to two years. It is beyond belief that anyone could bear to harm such a wonderful creature but sadly Japan continues to hunt Antarctic Minkes, killing several hundred each year.
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