Day 1 - Gaeta to Isola di Procida

The start of our continued trip to Cyprus commenced on the 1st April 2011. Our friend Harry came to see us off at 0830am in Gaeta marina, it was a nice sunny day and blue skies. Hopefully this is a good thing a sign of things to come with our next adventure.

Before I give you an account of our first day I would like to talk a little a bit about the friends we met in Gaeta. We met Harry & Jane back in October last year when we decided to stop our trip to Cyprus and winter Artemis in Gaeta ITALY. Harry & Jane where wintering their boat here as well, but unlike us they where living aboard their boat Cormorant. We only met briefly back then but caught up again when we arrived in Gaeta on the 24th March 2011.

We spent our last night onboard Cormorant with Jane & Harry and another friend Jayne. It's the first time I have been in the company of three Jane's altogether. Janey, Jane (Cormorant) and Jayne. We had our pilot books out and exchanged good places to visit on our way and good places on their way as Jane & Harry are heading back to the USA this year so heading to the Canaries around October. We wish them all the best in their trip back home; it was a pleasure to have met them. As Neville said earlier "We are like ships that pass in the night" maybe one day our paths will cross again.

Anyway back to our first day back at sea. It started not a bad morning we where able to motor sail for a few hours but the wind was not strong enough to turn off the engine and put both sails up, but it did aid our speed. The wind came and went. We arrived at the Isola di Ishcia, where we where going to anchor as it is expensive in Italy for marinas & ports and more so down this part of the coast!! We went to the first anchorage which was recommended to us this was South of the island and should shelter us from North or West winds. The wind had picked up between 17-20knots from the West and the anchorage didn't seem to be sheltering the winds! We moved around the island a few more miles to a second anchorage and to our dismay it didn't shelter us either still blowing 17-20knots!! By this time we where getting a little bit frustrated on our first day and yet again the wind always pick's up when we want to stop. The skipper and I had a chat; do we go to a marina? We decided to give Neville's first choice of anchorage ago at the Isola di Procida. Thankfully this went ok and we settled down albeit 3 hours later after arriving at Isola di Ischia at 1525pm!! It is a very picturesque anchorage on hind sight we should have gone there first but we had had a plan to actually visit Isola di Ischia. The anchorage was a little rolly polly after the winds died down, so not such a good nights sleep.

A LITTLE BIT OF GREEK MYTHOLOGY
A little bit of Greek Mythology about the Isola di Ischia. I purchased a "Greek Mythology" book whilst in Cyprus to read up on all the god's and monsters as there is quite a lot of it mentioned in the pilot books and we are travelling in these areas.

Isola di Ischia is a volcanic island and has tropical gardens on it this is why we wanted to visit it. The island was the dwelling place of TYPHOEUS a hundred headed monster, which was vanquished by Zeus along with other giants. Zeus is the father of all gods. TYPHOEUS expressed his fury at Zeus by eruptions and earthquakes. He has left the island now and now resides at the bottom of Mt Edna BEWARE!!!

No such monster on the Isola di Procida so I think the unsheltered anchorages was telling us something "beware of the 100 headed monsters"

Berthing No charge - Anchorage off the island, showers on Artemis, no internet.


Day 2 Procida to Agropolie

Our second day started off with us both feeling a little tired as we had had a rolly polly night and you never really sleep soundly when anchoring. We headed off at 8am for Agropolie it was going to be a long day 52kn miles. Before leaving I listened to the weather forecast and there was a Gale warning for the South Ionian, Aegean seas and Crete etc. Gales under course F7, then giving a warning for all Italian waters. Well that was just like re living the last of our journey back in October thunder storms, gales not again!! The area concerned was hundreds of miles away but it did make me worry the whole day.

Anyway the forecast for our area was fine and we motored sailed again, still not enough to turn the engine off and put up both sails. Nice sunny day but come 1130am the wind stopped, it stopped until 1430pm then came back stronger but still a bit flooky up and down, but we got to motor sail making 6knts which was good.

Highlight of the day we spotted our first dolphins of the trip. Three together but they didn't stay long, I managed to get one picture.

Arrived at Agropolie 1745pm good timing for 52kn miles. Nobody around but we needed fuel so we headed to the fuel pontoon CLOSED and Italians all lined along the wall fishing. We decided to go to the allotted visitors pontoon at the entrance of the harbour, someone arrived and stopped us berthing there and directed us to another space. They are very cute they just walk around watching you until you decide to stop then they appear!! I asked about fuel and they phoned the man who sells the fuel he came down and we fuelled up first, this was after we had tied up. When we got back the young guy was still there and he helped with ropes again, got the hose for me to hose the slim line dirt off the boat, helped with the electrics so we couldn't complain. Then came the charge 50euros and they didn't want to see any paper work, we think the cash went in their pockets. There is a half dozen privately run pontoons within the harbour so I guess they can charge you what they want. We where pleased to be tied to a pontoon and get a good nights sleep.

The town was pretty in a nice setting but there were no facilities there at all, so you don't get a lot for your money.


Berthing 50.00euors (£43.10) - No facilities, internet 7.50e's for 3hrs.


Day 3 Agropolie to Camerota

Our day started off a little later than normal as we planned to only do 25kn miles to split the last part of the coast of Italy before reaching Messina straights. At first not a lot of wind around and it was quite hot a nice day and hoping to arrive early afternoon at our next port and have a walk around. Around 12.30pm the wind picked up but to our dismay it was from the SE on the nose and it was a consistent SE3 for 7hours!! So this put paid to our late start and early afternoon arrival we arrived at 1845pm.

The marina at Camerota was not much to look at but the town itself was very nice. We liked it, lots of little Trattoria's which we still can't get our head around bars selling icecream, creamcakes. So far we have not seen a bar that just sells alcohol. The staff where friendly, helped us with the ropes, electric etc.

Camerota town has no tales to tell about any Greek Mythology but the place we where going to anchor Cape Palinuro has a little bit. We didn't anchor as it was still blowing from the SE Force 3 no protection there.

A LITTLE BIT OF GREEK MYTHOLOGY
How Cape Palinuro and the town got its name. The helmsman of Aeneas ship fell overboard and was washed ashore unfortunately for him he was murdered by natives. Palinurus tells his story, when his spirit tries to cross the Styx, but is refused because he had no proper burial Palinurus explains he was exhausted after being in battle and fell overboard taking part of the stern with him. Sybil told him he will not be forgotten a shrine will be erected to him. We didn't get to see the shrine and ruins but I think he was a pretty unfortunate guy.


Berthing 31.50euros (£27.15) - Showers 1.50 each.
No internet but when we went to pay the next morning, we asked about Meteo and the guy let Neville use the internet on his computer.

It seems they are more friendly down this part of the Italian coast.


Day 4 Camerota to Cetraro

Our fourth day on our trip, annoying for us another Southerly wind our only saving grace it was a light wind S1-2. It stayed South all day. The day started off very cloudy no sun, it stayed cloudy all morning then the sun eventually burnt it away but we still didn't get the full blue skies.

When we set off I said to Neville "Maybe the dolphins will visit us today to cheer us because of the grey skies" then at 1210pm they arrived around 20 or more quite small black & white. There was one showing off Neville got it on video (I will post on Face Book) it was too quick for me to catch on camera and it decided to perform. This dolphin, went under the water and came up backwards and sort of stood out of the water on its tail and moved backwards on its tail. It didn't only did it once it did it things times, we where both amazed and feel so lucky we have got to see this. Since my had came true I made another wish, that some nice rich person would donate a large some of euro's to our trip, well I can dream.

The coast of Italy has changed since we left Gaeta, from Gaeta to the bay of Naples it was quite high with rocky cliffs but once we left the bay of Naples the coast line is now lower sloping mountains and you can see small towns and beaches along the coast. There doesn't seem to be any large town.

My wish came true for a second time today at 1325pm more dolphins about 10 a little larger than before, had a quick swim at the bow they didn't stay as long as the first lot and no acrobatics' this time.

We arrived at Cetraro at 1740pm the marina has just been enlarged so there was plenty of room. I now try calling on the VHF radio, spoke with the port authorities first then they gave me the marinas VHF number (none of these numbers in the book) I didn't get a reply but when we entered the marina there was two guys waiting to direct us to a space. It is difficult with the language not many Italians speak English and we don't speak Italian but I think you can get by face to face better than on the radio. At least I think it is worthwhile to phone at least they are aware you are coming into the marina. They where very helpful and our surprise was in the morning the berthing was only 16 euro's and I got discount to 15 euro's as they didn't have any change.

The marina is on the outskirts of the town to far to walk. There was a few restaurants around but still closed for this time of year but a gentleman walked to the marina quite a walk and passed us his card to his restaurant and told us he did good fish. It was a nice place and on top of the harbour lights Port and Starboard where dolphins ahhhh.

A LITTLE BIT OF GREEK MYTHOLOGY
No tales of any Greek mythology in Cetraro but I was reading my book today and have a little story about a Tyrrhenian Pirate vessel and its fate. I thought as we are sailing in the South East Tyrrhenian sea I would tell you this story.

Dionysus the god of "The Inebriating Power of Wine" my kind of god. On one of Dionysus voyage to the island of Naxos, his ship was approached by these priates, they kidnapped Dionysus, he was disguised as a curly haired boy wearing a purple cloak. Dionysus revealed all his divine power he immobilised the ship with garlands while grape vines bourgeoned all over, transformed the oars into serpents, made lions and panthers appear from nowhere. The terrified pirates abandoned the ships but as they dived into the sea Dionysus turned them into dolphins.

I think this was quite appropriate for our day sailing in the Tyrrhenian sea, seeing dolphins. You know what my next wish is going to be, is for Dionysus to send me some wine!!!

Berthing 16.00euros (£13.79) - Showers free, no internet.


Day 5 Cetraro to Tropea

Our trip from Cetraro to Tropea was a long day as we where doing 51kn miles which can be a 10hours or more. There was not a lot of wind around at first but 1230pm the wind picked up a little SSW2-3 we where able to motor sail and made some speed. I don't know why we bother listening to the weather forecast today is a perfect example. I decided to try channel 68 which is the channel for the Italian weather forecast broadcasted 24hrs a day I did this only because we couldn't pick it up in the marina first thing. Well do you know when you hear something but you don't really want to believe you heard it! "Gale warning" thunderstorms over the Tyrrhenian sea, South East Tyrrhenian North Force 7. We still had 25kn miles to go. Neville was up in the cockpit he shouted down "Did I hear that right" yes you did, we both felt sick. It just brought back all those memories from back in October. We still had 5-6 hours to go so the next few hours where a little worrying.

At 1630pm the dolphins came to visit us and stayed for 35mins. There was quite a few of them around, at least it took our minds off the pending thunderstorm, we have now only got 10kn miles to go now and no sign of any black clouds. We arrived at Tropea at 18.45pm and nothing came of the thunderstorm the wind stayed SW2-3. About 45mins later lots of black clouds came across the marina from the North but no wind, no rain it just made everywhere dark. At least we where thankful nothing developed but it doesn't stop you worrying.

Tropea looks like a lovely, very old town. The old town is built on the top of a cliff or rock face. We spoke with an English lady who had wintered their boat here and she said it was worth climbing the 185 steps to see the old town. The marina itself is a little run down, in the toilets the walls crumbling and needed some paintwork and no handles on the doors. You would have thought this time of year they would be doing some repair work before the season starts, but not a lot going on in that department. We paid 41 euro's they have the facilities' but a little run down, have wifi but it wasn't working either but we managed to find a wifi zone in the town.

It was a long stressful day and we didn't have the energy to climb the 185steps tonight, but they where forecasting strong winds tomorrow so we decided we may be staying another night. I made a hot chilli and we relaxed with a glass of wine and good food.


Berthing 41.00euros (£35.34) - Showers free, internet not working but there was a charge.





Day 6 Tropea - non sailing day Gale Warning for Northerly 7
The next day we didn't sail as the forecast was Gale warnings for the area Northerly F7. We did get up at 7am and have a look at the weather there was a few dark clouds around. Our next trip was taking us through the Messina Straights so we need some settled weather to go through there, so we went back to bed for a well earned lie in. There was a little wind around it never seems as windy when you are on shore as it is out at sea.

When we climbed the 185 steps to the old time we could see the sea there was a few waves around the view from the cliff tops was out of this world (pictures in Sailing Blog). It was worth climbing the steps it is a lovely old town, there is some buildings at the front in need of repair, looks like they are attempting to do something. Lots of restaurants and coffee shops around the little narrow cobbled streets. We found one we liked and had a coffee sitting in the sunshine it was a very hot day. This is where we found wifi so Neville downloaded the weather. After our climb of 370 steps we settled down in the cockpit and sunbathed.


Day 7 Tropea to Messina Straights (Reggio)

Our trip from Tropea through the Messina Straights started off very rolly polly probably from the day/night before with all the strong winds. It took a while for it to settle down but there was not a lot of wind around. The wind arrived, sounds a bit like delivering a Pizza but it is strange one minute you have not had any wind and then it comes, this was 1130am SW2. We where able to put the genoa out to give us a bit more speed and put us over 5knts.

We had a quick visit from a lone dolphin that swam around Artemis for 5 minutes. I also spotted a sword fish I wasn't sure what it was but described it to Neville "the Oracle in my life" it had a long thing nose he said in this area they fish for sword fish. It surfaced and went down very quickly so I didn't get a good look.

1330pm the wind picked up to a SW3 and there was gusts, this was just as we where approaching Messina Straights we where 5kn miles out. We had planned this trip to be passing through here in calm waters but as normal the weather always appears when you don't want it! Anyway that's sailing either nothing or the Full monty!! I helmed and Neville navigated us through the Traffic separation zone. Our speed did increase a little bit highest 7knots but there was no strong under current you could see swirls in the water and there was no sea monters! We both thought it went well, we thought the bigger problem was the bloody ferries as one left one side so did the other on the other side. There was three ferries leaving one harbour and at different intervals hydrofoils coming down the middle. I think this crossing is worse that the Dover straights. You do feel vulnerable, small and you feel like you are not moving at all at 5 knots. We both wondered why there is so many going back and fourth to Sicilly every half an hour and who pays for it all.

We got through safely and arrived at Reggio at 1620pm covering 39kn miles. Reggio we really have not a lot to say about this place only that is was a stopping place for us. They didn't tell you in the pilot book that there is a railway station just across the road and you could here all the train announcements very clearly. The main road to the town and ferries run straight in front of it as well so you had all the lorries passing. The charge for this noisy, rolly polly as the current was coming in as well, showers in portacabin and no wifi was 40euro's rip off. We settled down and had our first Fray Bentos Chicken pie of the trip, now only one left I think we will celebrate when it's gone.


Berthing 40.00euros (£34.48) - Showers free, no wifi.