07/26/2009
We arrived at Cadiz on Saturday 11th July at about 12 noon after a pretty good night's sail which took about 22 hours. The winds here are still a bit unpredictable and during the night we seemed to have not enough wind or too much wind. When we first laid eyes on Cadiz we were not too impressed, there was large cranes everywhere, very large ships and ferries going backwards and forwards, but once in the marina things was not too bad. We spent a bit of time sightseeing in the town, which was ok we wasn't too impressed although Lord Byron declared Cadiz to be the most beautiful town he has ever seen, so its probably us not appreciating the finer points. One thing we are finding hard is that shops etc seem to always close when you need them. Here for instance, shops closed on Saturday afternoon and do not reopen until Monday morning. This has meant that for the last 10 days we have not seen a proper large supermarket and we have had to rely on our back up of reserved food, so some nights we have had to experiment and come up with some interesting recipes.
We left Cadiz for Barbate on Monday 13th July, this is an unscheduled stop as we initially were planning to do an overnighter and go straight to Gibraltar. The only reason we were going straight there was to hit the Gibraltar Straights at the correct time for the tidal stream and that would have been first thing in the morning, but now we have decided that perhaps they are not quite as bad as first thought so getting there at any time should still be ok. We were not over keen on Barbate but it did serve its purpose as a stopover and we were able to find a decent supermarket where we stocked up with food etc.
We stayed in Barbate for 2 nights and left there on Wednesday 15th July for our next destination which was Gibraltar. We had to motor all the way to Gibraltar due to light winds, but saying that, we must have had at least 3 knots of tide with us all the way as we averaged 8 knots, which with no wind is pretty good going. Coming down the Gibraltar Straights is a great sight and we were both quite excited what with Africa on our right and Gibraltar ahead of us. As we were approaching the marina we had to give way to an aircraft which was about to land, this is because the marina is right next to the runway but luckily for us there are only about 5 flights a day. We were also looking forward to spending just over a week in Gibraltar and having our friend Phil pop over from the UK to spend 5 nights with us.
After settling down in the marina, and completing all formalities we went to check out the sights and to see what laid ahead of us for the next week or so.
Just before Phil arrived on Friday the 17th July, our neighbour in the boat next to us was leaving his berth when he caught our boat and knocked our anchor off and the bracket holding the anchor became dislodged and disappeared into the water, and once again, after yet another incident where Ashby Girl has been slightly damaged I informed the other boat owner that he should not worry about the slight damage he had done to our boat. We then went off and met Phil at the airport, we went back to Ashby Girl to let Phil unpack and have a cold beer before hitting the sights of Gibraltar. Throughout the time Phil was with us we must have seen most of the sights, like a trip up the rock to see the caves, siege tunnels and not forgetting the famous monkeys, the museums, the beaches and so on. There was a large festival taking place just over the border so on the Sunday we thought we would nip over and check this out, We had already been pre warned not to wear any decent clothing as when you walk through the streets you will be covered with sangria. We went over and eventually found the main party, we must have got there just as the parade was finishing because the streets were actually drenched with sangria we were sticking to the pavements as they were so sticky. There were thousands of people there eating, drinking, dancing to the very loud music, everyone was dressed in traditional costume and there was a brilliant atmosphere, it was very family orientated and although everyone was merry there was no trouble to be seen, not like if this happened in the UK. Phil went diving one morning and he asked his instructor if he would dive down and retrieve our anchor bracket. So the next day when the instructor was diving in our area he dived next to our boat and in a few seconds he resurfaced with our bracket. We dined out in the evening in lots of nice bars and restaurants, but there was one bar in particular that Phil used to drag us into most days, we believe this may be due to the girl behind the bar. Another great thing about Gibraltar is that there is a Morrison's supermarket there that has a bar and also somewhere where you could lock your shopping away still in the trolley while you have a nice cool beer. Sadly Phil left us on Wednesday 22nd July after 5 great days, we saw him off at the airport then went back to Ashby Girl and got our Union Jack flags out and waved him off as his plane went passed. Phil on seeing us took a photo of this and there was an American boat next door to us who also took a photo of a couple of mad English people waving Union Jacks at a Monarch aeroplane. We spent the next day getting all the laundry sorted and Ashby Girl back to normal sailing conditions and then on Friday 24th July we left Gibraltar after our 9 day stay for our next destination which was Estepona in Southern Spain.
See photographs titled (h) PHOTOS - Spain, Portugal & Gibraltar.
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07/12/2009
We Finally left Bayona at 6-45am on Thursday 25th June and once again headed down the coast to our next destination that was Leixoes in Portugal. The trip down was again a hard slog with the wind directly on our nose; this did get better by the afternoon when the wind changed direction and finally we managed to have a good sail. Throughout our trip we have seen many dolphins but on this particular passage and at one particular time our boat was absolutely surrounded by them, we have never seen so many dolphins in one place at one time, what a sight. When we finally arrived at Leixoes we were both quite tide after a long trip and when Young Debs tried to jump from the boat to the very short pontoon she missed the pontoon but managed to still hang onto the shrouds with her feet dangling in the water, she was ok but with some nasty bruising. Leixoes is a large commercial port and not very attractive but the beaches all along this coast are spectacular and Leixoes is no exception. Leixoes is quite near Porto so we decided to get the Metro to Porto and spend the day sightseeing. Our last night in Leixoes saw winds get up to 35 knots and although this is a well protected harbour we still felt like we were on a rollercoaster and it also felt like our little pontoon would not hold us. The boat that was moored next to us was out during the day training would be skippers. When he returned to his berth that evening, he managed to hit our boat with an almighty bang, this caused our flagpole to snap in half but we don't think this caused any other damage. The skipper was an English lad so although he was willing to pay for any damage we shook hands, had a drink and forgot about it.
We left Leixoes on Sunday 28th June at 1pm for our next destination Nazare, is about 100 mile down the coast so the trip took about 20 hours and on this trip we travelled through the night. We both love travelling at night but travelling alone the coast with hundreds of fishing nets and fisherman who do not understand the give way rule makes night travelling a bit hazardous to say the least. It seems to be getting a hobby of ours to drag fisherman's nets from one town to another. Nazare is a very small marina within a commercial port, there's not too much there but a small shop come bar that sells very little in the way of groceries. There is a great local chap who runs it and loved practicing his limited amount of English on us. Within the town there is a great open market where the produce is very fresh and good but even better it's so cheap. Like most other places we have been to along this coast the beach is outstanding and we did manage to spend a day enjoying it.
We left Nazare very early on Tuesday morning for our next destination which was Cascais, the trip took about 13 hours and we managed to sail about half of the way which is not bad considering we normally have had to motor most of the way. Cascais is a more upmarket marina, very expensive with lots of bars and restaurants, but it has a lovely town with many nice buildings so was worth paying the extra marina fees, we only stayed here for 2 nights although we did enjoy it there.
We left Cascais again quite early and headed further down the coast to our next destination which was Sines, the trip was about 10 hours and we motored most of the way as the wind never got up until we were close to our destination. It was a beautiful trip as the sun was shining the sea was like a mirror and it was very hot. We were lying back enjoying the trip and we kept hearing this message over the VHF radio from the Portuguese authorities asking listeners to turn to another channel for more information regarding a warning message. At first we took no notice as you get a lot of these messages, they are normally to warn you that a certain navigational buoy has been moved, so as normal we took little notice and were just lying about on the boat sun bathing with the CD blaring away and then we noticed this Portuguese warship sort of following us at a distance. After some time we thought we better listen to the message as this warship did not seem to want to leave us. The message was that the Portuguese military were having firing practice and letting off live missiles from their warships in a certain area and at a certain time, it just so happens that we would be passing this area very close, so I suppose the warship was making sure we did not enter the restricted area. From now on we are determined to listen to all messages on the VHF radio. When we arrived at Sines the wind was picking up and we were glad to get moored up and have a beer. Over the next 5 days it was very interesting watching the boats come and go trying to battle the heavy winds in the marina. We spent 5 good days in Sines, done a bit of sightseeing here and relaxing on the lovely beaches. There was a festival going on all the time we were there with processions and music all along the promenade, they had bands playing the loudest music ever, there was stalls each side of the road selling all different types of food and drinks and the centre of the road was completely full of tables and chairs where you could sit down and enjoy your meal. There is a lovely traditional town in Sines with lots of interesting shops and restaurants scattered along the narrow cobbled streets. Most people here must be into fishing as there are so many tackle shops.
We left Sines on Wednesday the 8th July for our next destination which was Portimao in the Algarve. The trip took about 13 hours and we experienced some very high seas on the way, but as these were mostly behind us it caused us little problems. When we arrived we decided to anchor for the night in s bay just outside the marina. It was an absolutely beautiful spot with a traditional little Portuguese restaurant opposite on a small beach and some other beaches to one side. We sat on deck with some cool beers just admiring the view and thinking how lucky we are. The next day we went into the marina as we needed some supplies, it was a very nice large marina but also very expensive. Throughout this trip whenever we have gone into a marina we have perhaps met one or two English yachts, however here I though I was back at Brighton it was full of English. Once we had finished with the formalities of filling out paperwork and restocking the boat we headed for the beaches. Once again we were amazed by their beauty, the beaches were backed by different coloured rocks and were full of caves, some of these caves you actually walk through and this then brings you out to the next part of the beach. That night we decided to splash out on a meal in the beautiful surroundings and the next day we was up nice and early and back down the beach again before our departure. That day we left about 2pm for our next destination which is Cadiz SW Spain and this was an overnighter. We had some really good times in Portugal and we have visited some amazing places and after Portimao we are quit sorry to be leaving, we both know that there will be more adventures and more beautiful places to visit on the way.
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We left La Coruna on Wednesday 17th June after a 3 night stay. We headed down the coast to Camarinas. When we arrived the wind was picking up and over the following day this increased to 30 knots + in the marina. This meant that we could not get off our pontoon, so our stay in Camarinas was a bit longer then we had anticipated. Camarinas is very much a small fishing port with some shops and a few bars and restaurants. There are a few picturesque bays where you can anchor and this is an ideal and inexpensive place for a stopover, or even to spend a bit of time at anchor within a picturesque bay.
We left Camarinas on Monday 22nd June to head further down the coast to Bayona. The sail down was a bit rough with the wind directly on our nose, the scenery on the way was outstanding, a lot of people we have met say that this area is the best sailing area that they have ever sailed. Bayona marina is superb, the view from our berth is outstanding, the staff are very helpful and everything is here that is needed, this is a great place for a stopover and we are both a bit sad to be leaving but the weather is a bit unsettled at the moment so we have decided to go while we can. We spent two nights in the marina and the third night at anchor just outside the marina in the bay. We were both a bit apprehensive at first about anchoring overnight but once into it we both really enjoyed the experience and we will be anchoring whenever possible. When leaving in the morning Young Debs managed to get the electric cable for the remote control that operates the anchor completely tangled within the windless, this was corrected but only after causing more damage to an already shredded the cable. We are now leaving North Spain and heading for our next port which is Leixoes in Portugal.
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We have done it.
We have arrived in a La Coruna N Spain on Sunday 14th June at 5pm after a 107 hour journey where we crossed the notorious and dreaded Bay of Biscay. This is the sea area that every old sailor has a tale to tell; the tale is usually about someone they know who have crossed it.
When we were planning our adventure we obviously had a lot of reading material to get through and there seems to be more on the Bay of Biscay than any other sea areas in the world. The amount of stories we have read and heard about, from other mariners will make any sane person think twice about crossing the notorious bay.
We left Falmouth at 6am on Wednesday 10th June 2009 we headed out the harbour to light winds and quite moderate sea conditions. Throughout the day we did manage to sail some but also we had to motor because the wind was directly on our nose. Around midnight we first saw the Ile D'Ouessant in France and we were able to pick up a further weather forecast for the Bay of Biscay through a text message from a couple of our good buddies. It was about this time that I started feeling quite rough and sick; obviously I don't suffer from sea seasickness so we were both a bit concerned at what was wrong with me. For the next 12 hours if I was not laying down I was being sick. Throughout the night I was trying to take my watch but was sick continuously and Young Debs eventually took pity on me and confined me to my berth. We did consider turning back and heading into Camaret so that I could recover and Young Debs could eventually get some sleep without worrying about me, but as we had a such a good weather window for the Bay of Biscay we both felt that we would struggle through this. It was gone midday that I started to feel a bit better and carry out some of my duties as skipper and let Young Debs get some well deserved sleep. We then both put this near death experience to me suffering from good old seasickness, although I still will not admit to this myself?
The winds were still very light and mostly directly on our nose, the sea state was very high swells so we had no choice but to motor, but under these conditions our progress was very slow. By late afternoon on day two the swell had calmed considerably and now the winds were still very light and the sea state was clam, this was great but we still were having to motor. By day three conditions had not changed but by now we were getting a bit concerned regarding the amount of fuel we had remaining and this meant that we had to sail as long as the boat was moving, this did not always mean that we were travelling in the direction that we wanted to go. The third night seemed longer than most with the sails constantly flapping due to lack of wind, but by the fourth day with only forty miles to go we then knew that we had enough fuel to reach La Coruna and it was full steam ahead.
Throughout the trip with had the company of a number of dolphins on a number of different occasions, this is and will always be a great sight, they sometimes stayed with for ages just following the boat, going under and around the boat. There are a number of different types of dolphins but the smaller ones seem to be the most inquisitive and friendly, there was even one dolphin feeding her young whilst darting from one side of the boat to the other side.
On the third evening we had a large sea bird called a Cormerant that kept following us, he seemed to be checking us out, then after some time of flying around the boat he decided to land on our solar panels where he stayed for some sixteen hours. At first Young Debs was a little bit scared as he was so big and just kept staring at us, then after a while he just had a wash and then slept until morning. On another occasion whilst I was sleeping and Young Debs was on watch, she is pretty sure that she saw a large whale which circled the boat.
Sailing at night can be either spectacular or even quite eerie. You get some nights when its cloudy and a bit foggy it will be completely pitch black, always very quiet and the slightest noise seems to make you jump. Other times with clear skies and maybe a moon there will be thousands of stars and you can see for miles. It's these nights that you can just lay there on the back of the boat for hours on end just looking up in amazement. It was on one of these such nights that I witnessed a shooting star and I cant remember seeing a shooting star for many a year.
We eventually arrived in La Coruna on Sunday 14th June at 5pm. The journey had taken us 107 hours. One of the first things we always do when reaching port is to crack open a cold beer which we did. We then cleaned Ashby Girl carried out some formalities had a well deserved shower and then cracked open a bottle of champagne to celebrate our safe arrival.
We will stay in La Coruna for about 3 nights just to check out some of the sights before moving onto our next port which will probably be Camarinas still in N Spain but supposed to be a very picturesque. We have met a few English Sailors here so our plans can change rapidly.
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Some of the many Dolphins we saw when crossing the Bay
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Well where do we start, we had our leaving party which was a brilliant day, it was so good to see everyone and we would like to thank all our family & friends for coming along. In the day time we had lots going on and one of the highlights of the day was a tender race between Phil in Santa Louise 2, Jon in Double Bruyn 2 and of course me in Ashby Girl 2, of course I won easily and its one of them major events that Phil and Jon seem to have forgot about.
Our neighbour Jon was taking his practical skipper license in the Solent so we decided to take him in Ashby Girl so that Jon could get feel of a proper yacht. We met up with Mike and Carol in the evening where we all had a lovely meal and the following day took Jon over to East Cowes to meet up with his boat and other shipmates. When we saw the yacht that Jon was taking his course in we were shocked to say the least, it was a racing yacht rather than a cruising yacht and I am sure that the wheel was bigger than Jon. After a very hectic week with bad weather conditions Jon completed and passed his yacht masters.
On the 15th May Young Debs retired from her job of employment and on the 22nd May I also retired, although the amount of work I do most people think I retired some 8 years ago. Since retirement we have been busy preparing Ashby Girl for her forthcoming adventures and saying our last goodbyes to our family and friends.
On Sunday 24th May was the end of the Brighton Festival where an annual firework display is held off Brighton Marina wall. We had some friends over and had nibbles and drinks on the back of the boat whilst watching the display. Although the display wasn't as good as previous years we still had a great time. Our friends Rob & Jacqui came down for the event and spent the night on the yacht, this was an experience for them but hopefully a good one.
On Thursday 28th May at 8am we finally released our dock lines and officially started our adventure. Our first port of call was Gosport where we spent 2 nights. On the Friday we spent a lovely day with Young Debs family, her brother David picked us up and firstly took us to see his new house where we had the grand tour, we then went to Emsworth where David & his family are holidaying in their caravan. We spent the remainder of the day at the caravan site where we had fun and games and a bbq.
We left Gosport at 8am on the 30th May for our next port of call which is Falmouth. The first part of the trip was ideal with the wind directly behind us at about force 4, the wind picked up to force 7 but although they were strong winds they were still behind us and this caused us no problems. During the night the wind dropped off until eventually they died completely so we had to motor sail. We had a wonderful sunset, thousands of stars during the night, which is something you never see on land and then a lovely sunrise in the morning. The trip took 33 hours and we arrived in Falmouth Marina at 5pm on Sunday 31st May. We are now in Falmouth waiting for some insurance documents to be forwarded to us and a good weather window to cross the dreaded Bay of Biscay.
Have a look at the photos titled PHOTOS MAY 2009 you could even see yourself. If we can get internet access we will write again at our next port of call that will be La Coruna in Northern Spain and tell all about the Biscay crossing and if it is as fearful as most people say.
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