CURRENT LOCATION: Anchored in Prince Rupert Bay, off the town of Portsmouth, Dominica
15 34.671' N, 061 27.622' W

Our planned hike to the Boiling Lake was postponed from Sunday to Tuesday. So, on Sunday night, we were able to attend a weekly bar-b-que which is sponsored by the Indian River Guides Association. Proceeds from the tickets they sold to the event supports efforts towards security for us in Prince Rupert Bay, known as PAYS (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security).

It was a nice opportunity to mix socially with other boaters and some of the locals. The food was good, and the money certainly goes to a good cause. However, I would like to toss out one note of caution to other cruisers who elect to attend this fine affair on future Sundays: Beware of the Rum Punch!!

Monday was a mandatory DOR (Day of Rest), as we recovered from the effects of said rum punch.

Today, we were up bright and early. Alexis picked us up at 5:30 am, and gathered a total of 10 cruisers before dropping us ashore. s/v Reality - Von & Sharon, s/v Severence - Andrew & Ashling, s/v Dignity - Steve & Helen, s/v Kiki - Thomas, s/v Cirque d'Soleil - Angie. The well-packed minivan ride from Portsmouth to the trail head, leading to the Boiling Lake, took us an hour and a half (and was a little bit frightening, as any motor vehicle ride in the Caribbean tends to be).

Just as we were about to start our hike, the heavens opened up and it started to rain. And, it rained off and on (mostly on) all day long. I suppose that is what you would expect when you go for a hike through the rainforest. In addition, the overcast skies seemed to suit the circumstances of our journey through this remote landscape.

Our main guide for the day was Roy, but he brought along a young friend whom I have nicknamed the Bunny Rabbit. The Bunny Rabbit led our pack of hikers and Roy swept the back to make certain that nobody fell behind. At first, I tried to keep up with the Bunny Rabbit but he was just taunting me. As the grade of the trail grew steeper, I began to struggle while he demonstrated that he was nimble as a mountain goat and quick as a gazelle. He would stop and patiently wait for me to catch up before bounding off again. While I was huffing and puffing, he showed nary a hint of being the least bit winded. Within an hour, I had grown weary of this game and allowed others from our pack to chase the bunny.

It was amazing how well the entire group kept up with this incredible pace. We have never been hiking with such a strong and fit group of people before. The hiking was generally not too treacherous (only occasionally did we have to climb up the face of a rock), because the forestry service has created steps from cut logs. Hundreds and hundreds of steps:



While this should make the going quicker (and it most certainly does), I am not quite certain it makes it easier. Imagine getting on a stairmaster and continuing for 5 hours, virtually nonstop.

Two hours into the hike, we arrived at the Valley of Desolation, an area with bubbling pools of water and steam everywhere. As you approach a stream of water, you quickly touch it with your hands before crossing, for it could be cold, warm, or boiling hot.



-- CLICK HERE to see these bubbling pools in action --

Just a little over a half-hour beyond the Valley of Desolation, the trail terminates at the Boiling Lake (the second largest in the world). It was an incredible sight (yes, it really does boil). And we felt that we had earned it because the hiking this trail is the only way to reach the lake. There are no roads to this destination.



After a quick snack, we were hiking again. There were no more stops for us. The Bunny Rabbit took the lead, and our group spread out in a long line according to each person's pace; however, all remained incredibly fast. Sheryl and I were eventually bringing up the caboose of the hiking train. I think the term, "death march" was eventually agreed upon by both of us by the time we reached the parking area.

This hike was certainly a change from the previous hike. In fact, they were diametrically opposed. Neither Roy nor the Bunny Rabbit had much to say, and the physical exertion required to obtain our goal was plainly evident. This was all about exercise and nature. To be honest, I enjoyed both experiences for their differences. I am glad that these are the views of Dominica we will carry away with us.

After our 5 hour death march, we stood and waited in the rain for another 2 hours for our minibus to arrive (guess that will teach us to try to break land speed records for the boiling lake hike). Without the constant stairmaster motion to keep us warm, the continuing rain seeped into our skins and everyone was chilled. Eventually, another scary ride back to Portsmouth found us all walking a bit stiffly as we hopped out of the minivan and climbed into Alexis's boat. Sheryl and I were the last to be delivered home, and it was with great relief that we enjoyed a hot meal and took a long shower.

With a big cold/stationary front moving through this area, the weather gods are telling us that it is time to take our leave of Dominica. In fact, it is here that our journey south and east comes to an end. Tomorrow we point our bow back towards the north. Next planned destination: Antigua.